Hello, I have a 94 e150 with the 5.8 in it. The van idles great but in wont want to start in the mornings with out a shot of ether, and when i press the accelerator it bogs down and has no power. Seems to be running rich to me, I have replaced the map sensor, tps, iac, o2, checked the fuel pressure, plugs, rotor and cap. Also where the egr tube goes into the exhaust between the two cats is leaking. could this be a Cat problem or a Egr valve sticking open? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks,

 

just a update i took out the O2 sensor and started the van and seemed to run better, does this indicate blockage from the catalytic converter?

 

Yes I'd say you cat is clogged.

 

it still doesnt like to start cold with out ether. could this still be a cat problem. The van set for approx 2 years i got it to fire up ran great then started going down hill quick.

 

Check for ECU codes. Resolve those first. After that, take the van to a shop and have them check the cats. The tube going between the first and second cat is for Secondary Air Injection, AKA smog pump. It feeds oxygen to the cats, not exhaust to the engine.

Your next move is to compression test to verify the engine itself doesn't have an internal problem.

 

ok i have tried to pull the codes off the van and everytime i try i cant get it to work. The fuel pump wont stop running. So it will never go into the test mode. I dont see how there could be a internal problem when it idles like a dream. Everytime i give it gas it bogs down. if i let off the gas its fine. Also since the smog pump tube is leaking air around the place it connects to the exhaust wouldnt that lean more towards the cat being cloged?

 

I would verify the cats are crap before i spent too much on them. If you have access to the tools, do it yourself. If not, take it to an exhaust shop and have them check the back pressure. I dont know of any tool places that will rent an exhaust back pressure gauge.

 

Does it choke out when you bring the throttle up slowly? Or when you rev it? Both?
Check the fuel pump out. Especially if it won't shut off to check trouble codes. That could also mean computer issues or a relay.

I have a '95 dodge that would run then just shut off at highway speeds. I ran the diagnostic codes, changed a buunch of ignition parts (due to lack of spark), brought it to a mechanic (found nothing wrong).
i replaced the computer and there it was. Turns out it had a fault in the egr circuit ( i dumped 3 egr valves in it) and the spark circuit ( my intermittent lack of spark.)
what did i learn from this after spending about 500 bucks replacing unnecessary parts? My computer was on the fritz and was sending false trouble codes.
you could also have a restricted fuel tank outlet. Rust and sludge/varnish can do it. I had a fuel injected vw bus that ran great for years until one day it wouldn't go over 40. Then 30. Then 20. Etc. It idled great the whole time.
I wound up giving the injection system away and putting carbs on it.
when i went to pull the engine, i disconnected the fuel line from the tank and no gas came out. I was expecting 16 gallons. Imagined how hard i kicked myself over that!

Point being that it could be something so simple. Your could have a clogged line wohld trigger nothing.

Also check for vaccuum leaks. Good luck

 

Does it do that when you are just trying to start the motor? If so then either the fuel pump relay is stuck closed(low possibility) or the EEC is toasted(high possibility), and that second one would explain your other problems.

 

The van wont cut out when i slowly accelerate, and i know the relay is not bad i just put a new on in, So i guess i will be pulling the EEC. I have heard there is a way to fix these your self is that correct?

 

The biggest problem with old electronics is that the electolytic capacitors dry out and short, and these are relatively easy to replace with a small soldering iron, but a shorted cap can also lead to other electronic components shorting out and testing and replacing those isn't so easy without the proper service tools, so usually people just replace the box.

 

Did you disconnect the Oxygen sensor or did you just leave it hanging around?

If you disconnected it, the Engine Check light goes on and the Computer goes into "Emergency Program" - or at least i know it so form other engines/models/brands.

I had a similiar Problem when i owned a Citroen - there was the cooland temperature sensor broken, so the Computer always thought the engine is warm and injected too less fuel.

So thats one thing i would check.

But i had a similiar Problem on the Econoline.
Bad starting and low power.

I almost replaced everything around the Engine -> sensors, coil, rotor & cap, ignition wires,...

Somewhen I found the Problem deeper: a couple of pushrods were bend.

 

That's why I recommended a compression test. A compression and leakdown test would reveal internal issues such as this.

 

i did a compression test and it was good. im going to work on getting a back pressure gauge and see what that tells me. Also are there any test i can do to see if the computer is bad? Im starting to lean towards a computer issue on this because i cant even seen to pull codes from it. and i dont understand why it will start cold and idle good with a shot of ether but wont start cold on its own. Im guessing computer issues.

 

You didn't answer my question about the fuel pump, does it run continuously when you're trying to start the engine cold?