Non-consentual primate..... Wow, You hit that one right on the head!!!! (literaly)

The truck ran great with the old engine and the mass air system installed on it. The only thing that I switched was a new distributer (i already tried the old one) and the firing order.

I've checked the fuel pressure and it stays steady at about 36 to 40lbs.

Anyone know of a tuning shop somewhere in Washington state?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Sep-02 AT 03:26 AM (EST)]Hi,

First question, are you still using the stock torque converter? Also what is your fuel pressure set at, what is your idle speed? After you got it running did you reset the TPS?

I used the "E" cam when I rebuilt my Mustang. I could pull 14-15 in. vacuum at idle. I really couldn't set the idle any lower than 850 rpm or I would get all kinds of low speed issues including bucking. Final tune that ran great was TPS set to .92, idle set to 850 rpm, F/P set to 38 lbs timing set to 16 deg. This eliminated most of the low speed surge/bucking issues.

Rodger

**EDIT** I cain't spel

 

Check the cam timing. Also you may need to do something with the knock sensor, hook one up and check operation.
Mark

 

Have you cleaned the idle air bypass valve? These can sometimes cause issues on the low end. Just pull it off and clean it out with some throttle body cleaner. Where in Washington are you located? I'm in Shelton and I wouldn't mind taking a look at it if I could offer any assistance.

Brian

 

Wow, Thank you all for your help! I'll try to answer all of the questions..

I am using my original, but rebuilt, torque converter. The TPS is set at .98 Volts and has stayed that way for some time. Fuel pressure is at 36 LBS at 800 or so idle. I've tried all different degrees of timing from 12 to 18 and about 14 is where it runs best.

As far as the cam timing is concerned, The dots lined up on the cam and crank (pointing together) so I assume they are lined up right.

rangr50 : I've cleaned the IAC or ISC and that hasn't changed anything. I live in Port Townsend so I am about 2 hours away from you. I will have to trailer it there (dont trust it to run that far) but if your willing to look at it, it's worth a try!

 

I did come up with one last idea, a shot in the dark but have you checked your TFI module? That is the stupid PITA module on the front of your distributor...

You may have a MAF meter problem where it reads only WOT and not part throttle, did you try swapping that too?

 

Try setting your TPS back to .92-.93 Made a big difference on mine, set the idle speed with the IAB disconnected then disconnect the battery for a half hour or so. Reconnect the battery and and start the truck with all accessories off and let it run for a minute. Shut the engine off wait a minute then restart it with all accessories on. Let it run a minute then drive normally. Computer should have learned your new settings. Your F/P looks good and timing with the P heads looks about right. You might also find your converter is too tight for the cam but I'm not that familiar with auto, all my hipo junk are sticks.

Good luck

Rodger

 

Did you know that Ford recommends only a manual transmission with the MAF conversion? That may have something to do with it. Get on the Ford motorsport hotline and talk with their techs. Good luck!

 

Ford actually makes the conversion for the 5.0 with an AOD. So I figure that it should be ok. Plus it worked fine with my old engine.

The TFI module is out because I have swapped entire distributers with no change. I will try the TPS issue and see if that helps!

 

 

o2 sensor maybe?

 

Uh, why did you bring this up from 2002?

 

I think he may have it fixed by now ???? Lew

 

sounds like your timing is out a bit. check that, remember with a bigger cam your going to need to retard the timing some.

 

I would lean towards the maf sensor, or intake set up. Maf are very sensitive to turbulance in the intake tube before the maf sensor. I have seen guys use a box of straws cut about 4 inches long right before the maf sensor. like a wind tunnel.