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I'm new here and was hoping someone could give me a hand. Looking at a 93 Bronco with push button 4x4 engaugement. Going into 4x4 high is no problem. Trying to get 4 wheel low I don't get engaugement.
I am guessing that there is a procedure that I need to learn. There is no owners manual so I' not sure if it has to be in park-netural or what.
Thanks for your help.
Yes, it has to be in P or N to shift to 4L. N is preferred so the vehicle can roll slightly (under 5mph) to allow the gears to mesh. The shift from 2H to 4H can be made at any speed under 55mph, but only on low-traction surfaces (NOT dry pavement or hard clay).
Thanks for the advise. I did try pushing the 4 wheel low while it was in netrual and nothing happened. I guess I will have to get a shop manual to trace the problem.
I should be getting the vehicle tomorrow. It's a 93 Eddie Bauer with 89,000 miles. Runs very nice. Rusted tailgate and a little rust over the wheel lips. Nothing that can'T be repaired. Everything works and the best part. $2800. I'm sure I'll be around the forum allot for advise.
I never understood why your not supposed to run in 4 wheel on dry pavement. I have driven my 82 on dry pavement many time before testing crap out and doing tugawars with chevys. I sure do love smokin those 33s. Any ways, I'm not the smartest guy around, but I really don't think a thousanths of an inch difference in gear is going to hurt anything. You have say 3.55 in the one axle, 3.56 in the other, thats only 0.01 thousanths of and inch difference. I wonder how that can really kill a u-joint.
Just my thoughts.
actually on a 93 i believe you must be in neutral then you must press the 4x4 button then press the low range button. that is the way it is on my 1991 with push button. pressing the low range button without the 4x4 first ,nothing will happen. good luck and let me, us know how you make out.
RoadKill,
It's not .01 thousanths of an inch, it's actually the number of revolutions of the driveshaft (3.55 revolutions vs. 3.54) for each revolution of the axle/tire. It's also not the u-joints that are the problem. The problem is the chain in the transfer case gets put under extreme loads when the front tires are attempting to travel farther than the back tires. Granted, 3.54 and 3.55 are not that different, but it's still not a good thing to do. Chances are you could drive that way for quite a while without a problem, but I'm not willing to try.
What he said - the difference on 32s is 1" every revolution. Since the t-case gears are only ~6" across, that's ~5x the load on the chain as on the tires. Now imagine how much force it would take to make 2 of your tires slide 1" with the truck on dry pavement and multiply by 5. Then imagine hanging your t-case chain from a concrete beam with a pipe thru the bottom of the loop and hammering down on the pipe with double that force (because the truck only pulls on one side, but you'd be hanging the pipe with both sides of the chain) over & over. That's what you do to your chain when you drive in 4WD on a hi-traction surface and the tires break loose over & over as you roll to relieve the stress.