Pulled the ECM out and found a resistor that has been excessiviely heated. I will be pulling the resistor out today and hopefully replacing. Does anyone have or know where to get a schematic of the ECM? Its an ALT0 ecm.

 

Hummmmmm................

Good find !!!!

Hope that the ECM repair you doing resolves your problem.

Be aware also that there could be a "potential" compatibility problem regarding "flyback diodes" within your computer and solenoid pack.

Perhaps subford (Bill) or Lead Head (Ian) can chime in on that scenairo for you.
They're very knowlegeable about that issue !!!!!

Good Luck,

Bob

 

I don't do the diagnostics in my shop, that's for the younger fellows, but I do know that 'shift improvers' can complicate a builders life. We have ONE builder who does all the E4ODs, 4R100s Torkshifts etc. Ran your story past him. Not a fan of the 'tugger' kit, problem is in his view way too much modification and if problems develop impossible to get back starting point. Superior kits are what he claims is the best for HD applications. Phords DO NOT like rough shifting schedules by the way. It's good you are getting good diagnostic help on forum, now consider leaving the hot rod mods in the box.

 

Thanks for the help. While doing further inspection I found that one of the resistor solder joints was broken. Hopefully this is the cause...I will update with the results.

 

Good eye and good catch !!!!

Bob

 

Ok...so it wasn't an electrical problem. I put the ECU back in and that did not solve the problem.

I tore back into the valve body and triple checked everything. Also did another air test. This time the air test came back with a leaking forward clutch. Pulled the tranny back out to replace the forward clutch piston seals and found the seal was torn and the piston had some damage. So I replaced the seals and piston. Checked all the clearances when putting the tranny back together and everything fell within the Ford specs.

Put the transmission back in the truck and now there is no drive. Manual first, second and reverse work. There is a slight delay when manually shifting between gears. When the truck is in drive it engages put then acts like it looses pressure. if you bring the rpms up the truck begins to move forward but acts like the brakes are locked. Pulled the valve body apart, air tested and found everything was like it was supposed to be.

Not sure where to start looking. I believe the problem is internal but not sure where. Any ideas?

 

Does the truck even roll when in drive, or is it completely locked?

 

It doesn't roll when in drive.

 

Sounds like maybe the valve body is warped, allowing something to engage when it shouldn't. I believe over torquing the center-support bolts is a very easy (and common) way of warping the case. I sent a PM to Mark Kovalsky about this thread, I believe he was actually on the E4OD/4R100 program at Ford.

 

Well I pulled the tranny back out today. I went through and slowly put everything back together. After I got the Center support back in I decided to try and leak test to this point. My thought was that I would be able to better tell if it was leaking internally. With shop air to the Forward clutch feed bolt you can hear the forward clutch thud and begin to leak. Feeling around there is air leaking on the back side of the center support. It is almost like there is supposed to be some seal between the center support and center shaft. Through all the instructions and diagrams I have I do not see any sort of seal.

 

So I still have the transmission in pieces in the garage. After ordering new cast iron seals for the forward clutch hub I find that there is still air leaking through the middle of the center support. When I did the rebuild I did not replace the center support hub as I did not know it was required.

Does anyone have the service spec for the inside diameter of the center support hub? I believe this is the problem but before I buy a new one I want to make sure. Thanks for the help.

 

i know this is a older thread but curious if this problem ever got resolved? i’m having the exact same problem after my rebuild

 

I believe it was an issue with one of the valves in the valve body. There was one valve that was barely moving once the shift kit was installed….operator error. I’ll dig up my notes to see if I can find which valve specifically it was.

 

Exact same problem as post #1 or post #21?

Post #1 issue was probably a stuck 1-2 accumulator regulator valve. This causes a no 1-2 shift or a direct bypass of 2nd and goes 1-3. Notice, these are his exact symptoms as noted in post #1.

Post #21 issue was a stuck solenoid regulator valve. - Since we know he had 12v power to the solenoids (and since he just said it was a stuck valve issue.) Note! It's important not to jump to this, as a no electrical power issue, shows the same exact symptoms, and 99.9% of the time, this is will be an electrical issue; trans not getting power, rather than this valve sticking.

 

I have a remanufactured EEC-IV that does the 1-3 shift, skips second. It is on mine the fault of the computer.

Same symptoms, different problem.