Missing gas cap?
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Missing gas cap?
I have a 2000 E350 boxtruck with a 5.4 auto.The motor is a new rubuilt with about 4000 mile,coils were replaced with motor,injectors were rebuilt with motor.Today (500 miles from home) the truck died ,I was going up a slight hill on an interstate. It will still start,but runs very rough and when I put it in gear and step on the gas it dies.So I had it towed to a garage.While setting in a hotel waiting until tomorrow when they can look at it I have been running all kinda ideas through my head. While pushing it into the garage I noticed my gas cap was missing. I know it was on 45 min earlier because I got gas. Did I forget to put in back on? probably..But I wondering if the missing gas cap could cause the truck to run bad,vary bad???
Thanks for any ideas
Thanks for any ideas
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
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Once heard just a loose gas cap can throw a code. Dismissed the idea until it happened to me.
The Check Engine Light came on, but it continued to run w/o any apparent issues. Fault Code Reader lead me to loose cap.
Missing cap might more seriously affect emissions system & force computer into limp Home mode? Especially if other parameters were marginal.
Missing cap might more seriously affect emissions system & force computer into limp Home mode? Especially if other parameters were marginal.
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update
MAN I'M SCREWED.Friday morning I was told the problem was ox sensor and aid flow sensor.Friday evening was told problem was vacuum pump.Saturday was told its the ecc or something internal.I'm looking at 1000 bucks to have it towed home.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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Go get youself a low cost code reader and look at the codes yourself.
Don't erase any but come back here and post them.
It won't fix the problem but your being lead around trying to get your repairs and money because your behind the 8 ball being so far from home.
.
There is another case simular with a transmission. The owner is being told his transmission is shot for a code indicating a short circuit in the feeds to the solenoids. That certainly is not a 'shot' transmission.
.
Best defense is to be a little educated against being taken by dishonesty for anything that comes up in life..
This is, inpart, why these boards exist.
Good luck.
Don't erase any but come back here and post them.
It won't fix the problem but your being lead around trying to get your repairs and money because your behind the 8 ball being so far from home.
.
There is another case simular with a transmission. The owner is being told his transmission is shot for a code indicating a short circuit in the feeds to the solenoids. That certainly is not a 'shot' transmission.
.
Best defense is to be a little educated against being taken by dishonesty for anything that comes up in life..
This is, inpart, why these boards exist.
Good luck.
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Thread Starter
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The problem is,its locked in a garage now.Even tomorrow when the garage opens I would have to have it towed someplace(just guessing he won't ME work on on his lot).2nd problem I'm at a motel 5 miles away with no way of getting to the garage,no taxi,or car rentals in this town.So even if I could find a place to tow it to,I have no way of getting to a parts store. I have some tools with me not sure my code reader is in my box or not.Believe me I've been trying to find away out of this.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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Your are in a jam.
Time to make a decision even though it will be costly.
You will have to pay the shop to clear the way for removal and towing and some way to get around even with a rented car.
No matter how it goes it will be costly before even getting the truck fixed.
This is an example of a need for the right auto insurance and tripple A for those who travel long distances as normal part of a job.
A rider on a policy for a car rental is key or one gets stuck like this.
Even a listing of shops that will agree to abide by triple A rules for honesty.
Best I can say is good luck and hope it turns out as good as is possible.
Time to make a decision even though it will be costly.
You will have to pay the shop to clear the way for removal and towing and some way to get around even with a rented car.
No matter how it goes it will be costly before even getting the truck fixed.
This is an example of a need for the right auto insurance and tripple A for those who travel long distances as normal part of a job.
A rider on a policy for a car rental is key or one gets stuck like this.
Even a listing of shops that will agree to abide by triple A rules for honesty.
Best I can say is good luck and hope it turns out as good as is possible.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,354
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From: Winnipeg
Maybe the fuel tanks at the station you filled at were low and you picked up water from the tank with your fill. If that's what's the problem, the gas station should pay the repair bill if you still have your receipt.
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another update
OK the jerks at the garage DID stick it to me.They charged me $711.00 to tell me they don't know what was wrong,somehow they think #3 cylinder has a bent valve. That chapter done. I had it hauled home last night. It will start if I hold the gas pedal to the floor,but is just a very rough idle. So far the checks I've done, fuel pressure--45,I had a ox sensor and a air flow sensor at home so put them on--no difference, unhooked the cat,just to be sure it wasn't plugged . My code reader is giving p1131 and p1151. Is there a chart on this site that lists all the codes? I'm looking
Any help?
Any help?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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The 1131/1151 is banks 1 and 2 telling you the PCM shifted the fuel tables lean trying to account for to much fuel. This is not a sensor problem, only the way the system has to tell us what has happened.
This is right in line with your need to clear the cylinders of fuel by opening the throttle wide to shut off the fuel injection and evaporate the fuel with just air passing through..
The pressure you measure at 40 psi is in line, suspect the fuel injection of leaking fuel or even a regulator with a leaking diaphram leaking fuel back into the intake through it's vacuum hose.
So far it does not sound to bad.
This situation can foul plugs and cause missfire codes as well.
Good luck.
This is right in line with your need to clear the cylinders of fuel by opening the throttle wide to shut off the fuel injection and evaporate the fuel with just air passing through..
The pressure you measure at 40 psi is in line, suspect the fuel injection of leaking fuel or even a regulator with a leaking diaphram leaking fuel back into the intake through it's vacuum hose.
So far it does not sound to bad.
This situation can foul plugs and cause missfire codes as well.
Good luck.
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I'll try the regulator its kinda easy to get to. When you say "suspect the fuel injection of leaking fuel" can you explain a little. Do you mean maybe the injectors themselves are leaking. Thanks for the reply.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
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Yes injectors can leak.
Look for signs such as cylinder missfire codes to possabily ID the cylinders.
Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel regulator and look for signs of gas.
If none, plug the end and try the motor again to see if anything has changed.
The only effect of doing this is the regulator allows a bit higher pressure but normally not enough to cause a big issue.
The only reason the regulator has a vacuum control is at idle the motor does not need as much fuel so the manifold vacuum causes a reduction in fuel pressure. As the throttle is opened wider, the manifold vacuum reduces raising the fuel pressure to provide for power under load.
Remember there are only two sources of fuel, the injectors and a faulty regulator.
Good luck.
Look for signs such as cylinder missfire codes to possabily ID the cylinders.
Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel regulator and look for signs of gas.
If none, plug the end and try the motor again to see if anything has changed.
The only effect of doing this is the regulator allows a bit higher pressure but normally not enough to cause a big issue.
The only reason the regulator has a vacuum control is at idle the motor does not need as much fuel so the manifold vacuum causes a reduction in fuel pressure. As the throttle is opened wider, the manifold vacuum reduces raising the fuel pressure to provide for power under load.
Remember there are only two sources of fuel, the injectors and a faulty regulator.
Good luck.
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I'm on the road right now,will get back to it on Friday. Had to rent a truck an finish the load I had when the truck stopped.This morning before I left I started doing a compression test, either my gauge is bad or I got problems.
I only had time to check 2 cylinders,#3(next to the last on right)had 40psi,#4(last on right)had 60psi.Thats all I got done,before I had to leave.My question is, its possible the the right cam jumped time?? And is there an easy way to tell? This is a E350 so nothing is real easy.
Thanks for your help
I only had time to check 2 cylinders,#3(next to the last on right)had 40psi,#4(last on right)had 60psi.Thats all I got done,before I had to leave.My question is, its possible the the right cam jumped time?? And is there an easy way to tell? This is a E350 so nothing is real easy.
Thanks for your help