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Got some work done yesterday. The 460 is a tight fit but it does fit. Only have about 1/4" on the drivers side to the firewall, but it's enough.
The headers I have on it required notching the mounts (they're not bolted on in that photo btw). Unfortunately the end of the headers is right where I'll need to notch the stock engine mount crossbeam that I left in for strength. I used side engine mounts verse the one that runs underneath because I didn't feel like changing out the oil pan I had (front stump). The C6 cleared the factory crossbeam just fine, but the headers are 3" and thus need a whole lot of room. If anyone is searching in the future about leaving that crossbeam in remember I have an F600, I think mine is different, just having my frame being so much taller means it sits down 3" more. It fits right now with about 1/2" all around it.
Though I offset it about 1/2" to the passenger side, the headers I have on it had no issues with the steering box on the drivers side. They actually went around it so it doesn't look like they would hit even if I pulled it more to the drivers side.
I'll have to figure something out with the C6 mount. I forgot my frame is a good 3.33" taller than an F100, and thus Mid-fifty's one won't just bolt up straight, but it might actually work if I flip it upside down and put the mounting pad on top of that. Have to wait and see so I match up the driveshaft angles.
The C6 also fits low enough I'll get a new transmission cover for the cab. I can have one perfectly flat and there is something about a completely flat floor in a truck that I like, you just don't see that anymore.
And it looks like I will need to remove the shroud around the radiator. It's a tight fit. I may even end up needing an electrical fan (which is supposed to give better mpg anyways, right?). My current fan is about 3/8" away from the cross beam up front.
And it's nice, after like 8 years, to have that firewall also be red.
9" under the cab and 5" above the axle. It's also thicker at 0.25" and a little wider C-channel wise.
The frame has kept me from having some problems with the swap, but has caused some different ones since anything off the shelf is made for an F100 frame.
Right now I'm planning on getting it driving again and once I have the parts for the 4x4 conversion I need, start Stage II.
I need a dana 60 up front with the right ratio. Wheels and tires. Fitment of those. Suspension needs to be done since I only have leaf springs and not even a mount for a shock. My steering column will also probably have to be done to adjust for any new setup I go with as well. A tilt column would make it a lot more enjoyable to use normally.
I figure I can find a divorced NP205 for the C6 which would allow me to drop on the passenger side if need be, allowing me more options for the Dana 60 I need up front and clearing up some room on the underside for the driver (since everything is there but the battery). I might also just go with a C6 with a transfercase married to it if I find a good one at the right price.
As of today where I'm at:
•Factory cross-member needs to be heavily notched or removed to allow the exhaust to fit. The headers butt up against it right now and need about 2" of clearance they don't have.
•Transmission mount needs to be adjusted to work with my frame size difference and to get the driveshaft angle correct
•Exhaust everything
•New radiator possibly to help with clearance issues up front. I also need a transmission cooler and have been looking at an electrical fan so it's a two birds with one stone thing.
•Transmission shift linkage. I want it on the column so I need to fabricate a few things.
•New wiring, the original is cracking to the point they're becoming all exposed and bare.
•Brake booster mount installed
•New brake lines
•Brake booster linkage fabricated
At that point it will still have many issues, but go down the road... faster than it's ever moved. I don't plan on leaving it like that, I do plan on starting the 4x4 stuff once I'm at that point and it's possible it will take me so long to get to that point (since I never seem to have more than a few hours a week to work on it) that I'll gather all the 4x4 parts I need and just start on those before I even get it in motion with the 2wd parts.
Some progress update that I thought might help someone doing a 460 swap. Been working on my car and bike this summer, whoops.
So, the 460 fits with a F600 stock transmission mount, you have about 1/4" of clearance (that you can't see all the way around at this angle, the pan is NOT touching). Unfortunately for me the Hedman headers I have dump right where it is. So the cross member will be coming out and something new thought up and installed. Bummer. (That's a 3" opening on the header for sizing) Different headers is an option, just not my plan.
So, when I said there was 1/4" of an inch for the mount, there is also a eight inch for the firewall on the driver side!
And the fan blade!
And the steering box!
But hey, almost an inch from the radiator! (I plan on swapping to a radiator mounted fan later on for better mpg, but for today it just needs to drive)
Lastly, the whole front section pictured here, including the radiator, all comes off with 2 bolts if the fenders are removed (and wiring and hoses). So you don't need to take that apart. The two bolts are easily accessible from the bottom too.
Right now I'm leaving the sides unbolted and just slid in for a lot easier access as I wire things up.
Remember, if you take out that cross member, it not only supported the rear of the engine/front of the transmission, it keeps the frame from twisting under the weight of the cab. And at the rear mount of the front springs. You will need to replace that support.
On that crossmember you really need one there. So here's a solution to your problem.
Get a couple sections of thick wall tubing/pipe big enough for your exhaust to go thru. Cut out the crossmember on both sides and weld in the pipe/tubing so the exhaust can pass thru it. And then if needed you could also drop the center section of the crossmember for a little extra clearance. Weld it all back together, gusset where needed. And you are good to go, there. You still have a crossmember to support the frame and no more clearance issues there.
The pipe idea is a good one. I'd have to make it big enough to get the flange and a socket down in there though since the header ends right at the edge of the crossmember. It's got some PITA issues either way I go.
Debating making a new one that bolts to the bottom of the frame, but I don't know much strength I'm going to need with it, and a bottom bolt puts the pressure on the bolts... unless I add a little bit of a flange to catch the frame, or sandwhich the frame...
Hey Stephen
It's good to see you back at it! You'll find a good solution!
The challenges are what makes it interesting.... if it were easy we wouldn't have as much fun.
The pipe idea is a good one. I'd have to make it big enough to get the flange and a socket down in there though since the header ends right at the edge of the crossmember.
Yep, I recon this is my last 'heavy thinkier' of a problem... unless I try to make an automatic shift column out of a standard one and hook up the linkage, lol. Least at this stage.
Stage 1) Make it run!
Stage 2) Make it drive!
Stage 3) Make it stop!
Stage 4) Make it pretty!
Stage 5) ????????????
Stage 6) Profit!
Originally Posted by EffieTrucker
Can the collector on the header be shortened?
It can but I don't see me playing with it. There isn't much room there.
I'm looking into tubing style crossmembers, lot of 4x4 guys add a lot more support. I could probably get away with nothing right now but it seems silly not to fix this now.
The pipe idea is a good one. I'd have to make it big enough to get the flange and a socket down in there though since the header ends right at the edge of the crossmember. It's got some PITA issues either way I go.
Debating making a new one that bolts to the bottom of the frame, but I don't know much strength I'm going to need with it, and a bottom bolt puts the pressure on the bolts... unless I add a little bit of a flange to catch the frame, or sandwhich the frame...
If you make one that bolts to the bottom of the frame. Make sure it also ties into the upper lip of the frame. Not only does the original one keep the frame spaced correctly width wise. It also keeps the rails from twisting. You got the springs pushing on the bottom and the cab mount wings pushing from the top. So you need some triangulation from the top of the frame down to the crossmember.
05-22-2017, 06:19 PM
