Hi All,

I have had at least 6 stuck calipers in the last 2.5 yrs. I had all new rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines and fluid done 1 yr ago. Since then I have had 3 more stuck calipers (including the one smoking today). 2mo ago, the shop replaced a stuck caliper and lubed all four. I have read a few old threads and know this is a fairly common problem. Has anyone with this problem found something else wrong - like ABS problem?

The shop I use is reputable, been in business here 50+ yrs and I personally know the owner (and he is there everyday supervising). They believe the problem is from salt air - I live quite close to the ocean. From reading threads here though it seems too common. Also two different neighbors are not having these troubles on their trucks.

Thanks for any thoughts - Dan

 

subscribing - 4 new calipers over 4 trips to the dealer - 24,000 miles on the truck - midwest no salt air

Considering aftermarket next time it happens.

 

I've had nothing but problems out of my rear brakes. I'm in the Midwest and havent seen a caliper fail so far. But I keep having a smoke issue myself

 

How are they "stuck"?

Is it the sliding pins or is it the caliper pistons?

 

The smoke issue has been a stuck caliper every time for me. My kids know the smell now. It is not always real bad but once it was almost on fire. I usually put my hand near the rim - if it is hot as hell, I got another stuck one.

A mechanic I was chatting with thought it could be a problem with the Anti-lock system - he doesn't work on Fords tough.

 

I have been told it is the piston that is locked. The sliding pins have been lubed many times, most recently 2 mo ago.

 

If its the pistons, you can get steel or phenolic pistons. It would be interesting to see which ones you had. I've got steel and have not seen any stickng piston.

 

The calipers were Ford, replacements were Ford reman's, so whatever those are - steel or phenolic, I don't know.

 

If I had that many caliper failures, the first thing I would do is stop buying rebuilt calipers.

 

I only bought them the first time - they were replaced for free after that because of the quick failure. I am concerned though that the caliper problems may be the symptom rather than the cause. I am open to suggestions for other makes or models, but before I spend a bunch of money replacing essentially new equipment, I want to make sure it is the problem.

 

Ive relaced the rear right twice.First time i used cheap rebuilt. Second time i spent good money on a centric new unit.Also it was the whole assembly not just the caliper.same issue on front left and once i did that and flushed fluid no problems to speak off.the rear would over heat and stick ever yime i plowed which i couldnt figure out .good luck

 

How long have the centric's been good for you?

 

I guess I should feel lucky. I'm only at 4 in 100000 miles. The pistons were locked in place on each of them to the point that on 2 of them the pistons could not be forced back with a big "C" clamp.

 

2 yrs for the centric.but i only have 20 k on them

 

I have the same issues. There are 2 threads on this subject, current posting, one with my UID and another. I have posted to that one also.

The expert is Jack fmvt, I think is his UID. Ford brake engineer.

Read ALL he has to say, dead on .. period.

I spent this AM at the NAPA shop here in Pikeville TN. Not a part store but a job shop.
He gave me the same information as Jack has posted.

The phenolic - plastic pistons will get oval shaped when they get hot.
Then they stick

The start of the locking problem is normally hard braking with a big load, like my rig.

Fluid gets really hot, heats the caliper and the pistons AND the fluid back into the short hose.

The hose that goes bad deteriorates just sitting. It never moves much so the inner wall cruds up. Dual cause, heat and time, even low mileage low use trucks.
Once the hose is closing, the caliper cannot fully release as fast as needed. It drags bit, then slowly bleeds the fluid back and release the pad.
With regular driving we almost never notice this until the hose is really defective. It occurs when we stop allot with a big load, never giving the time to get caliper pad to release.
Pad over heats, smokes like on fire, heat the caliper and warp the piston. The calipers lock up at any time.

The over heating also might warp the rotors. The owner tech of the NAPA shop explains the fix, change the rotors, calipers, hoses and pads.

He did NOT try to sell me the stuff. My son-in-lawis the SW Systems director for NAPA. I get parts at employee pricing.

I have the OEM OE Ford pads that Jack recommends over all the after-market pads.
Rotors will be the best NAPA has I think Raybestos Pro. NOT slotted.

The calipers are re-builts. May be a problem but have to go with them for now. Cannot afford $200 each calipers.

I have the new hoses.

The pistons stick when over heated, I cannot find a caliper with metal pistons. At least at my price.

The next problem is the pad slide in the caliper frame. Where the pad tabs and those damm springs are suppose to slide. The cheap springs rust get crud and do not slide, thus the pad will not be free to brake correctly.
These spring clips are suppose to the SS, but they still crud up (rust). I guess worse when the truck sits.

NAPA Ralph - fix is to use the disc brake silicon grease. Make sure the slides in the frame are polished clean. Grease the springs and the slide. Do not use anti-seize grease it will get hard with heat, then the pads no longer slide.

I have been dealing with this problem for a year. Doing partial fixes with pad replacements only. The front now has new rotors and pads. I think the front calipers are OK as they never over heated like the rears.

Why the right rear? The only 'guess' is the right caliper is a different PN then the left?? Ralph had no answer but yes the RR is the major failure.

Apologize for the log post.
RR