The problem with monos isn't their strength, it's their habit to bend into an "S" curve. Their bending characteristic is different from a multileaf, they are linear rather than progressive. No offense Mervy, but most that have tried them have replaced them with multileaves.
Suspensions are my "thing", I would recommend spending the extra money for a set of shocks specifically valved for whatever springs you use, rather than 1 size really fits nothing off the shelf mass produced shocks. Matching the shocks to the springs makes all the difference in the world on ride and handling. They are more important than any other part of the suspension, they should never be an afterthought or a place to "cheap out".

 

Thanks for your input Ax, I am taking your comment to heart. I have never tried them before so this will be a learning curve. I'll monitor them closely once the truck is on the road and will match the shocks to them them with careful research. If they don't perform satisfactory, I'll change them out.

 

I used an original axle that was stretched 3" by Dave Mann, disc brakes, & bilstein shocks. I rides pretty good even on the interstate. The first picture is the new drop axles I've change the axle since the picture.

 

With a few leafs removed.

 

..........

 

What steering box are you using?

 

Mervy, thanks for understanding that I am not trying to put down your choice, just trying to educate "the masses" on suspension selection. The Monos and shocks will possibly be quite satisfactory for you depending on how you drive and where.
Monos show their worst characteristics under hard braking (front) and hard acceleration (rear). But they also ride differently.
Here's why: a single leaf has the same bending rate over the entire length. To model what happens take a long strip of thin wood (a yardstick would do, a metal yardstick would be even better) to represent the spring and have someone hold it at each end. Clamp a clamp in the center to represent the axle. Now grab the clamp and rotate it forwards and back to represent the forces the axle exerts on hard acceleration and/or hard braking. As the axle perch tips, it will twist the leaf into an "S" shape, then as the force is removed it will snap back. If you push the clamp up and down quickly (representing a bump in the road), The center of the yardstick will bow up and down, acting as two springs, one in front and one in back of the axle (clamp). The spring will feel equally as stiff no matter how far up or down you move it (linear resistance).
Now lets model a multileaf spring. Grab another yardstick and cut it at the 12" mark. Stack the 3 pieces one on top the other and put the clamp back on in the center to represent a 3 leaf spring. (you could add a couple wire ties to represent the intermediate clamps if you wanted to be even more accurate or see what happens the more clamps you add. In a real spring you need at least one to keep the leaves from fanning out around the center bolt). Have your assistant hold the ends of the full yardstick and try to rotate the clamp. The ends of the shorter leafs will push against the longer ones, resisting the twist. Now move the clamp up and down. The further up or down you push it, the more the resistance will increase (progressive resistance). You really want progressive resistance in a spring to add more support as you add load, to keep the axle from bottoming out over a large bump, but to ride soft over a small one, and to resist body lean more the harder you corner.

 

some really nice suspension set ups are coming out my leafs seem to be alot closer to the bump stops then most of yours, i bought the truck with a 3" drop leaf spring, and now i want another 3" or more this is what i have right now.




I got a little artsy fartsy with the pictures.
This last one is a crappy picture but i needed a side shot and didnt feel like moving my other truck to move the f100 but here it is


and two more to go super artsy! if you dont mind!

 

Ax, that makes perfect sense to me. You anology is very clear and I can visualize what you are saying. I will have to take 'it' easy and watch for problems with this setup. If these monos don't work out I will have to switch them in that case. These particular springs are quite thick in the middle and taper out to the ends. I have seen others that weren't quite as robust.
The ones on the truck that I took off didn't even match from side to side, and the passenger side was two inches lower than the drivers side. There will be some improvement in that respect.
TwistedFate....your truck is beautiful.

 

That's The Toyota P/S box.

 

Highly tapered monos are more progressive than straight monos. Still can't have the same characteristics as stacked separate leafs. GM tried monos on the Chevy II in the 60s and soon abandoned them. When they decided to use a cross chassis mono in the Corvette rear they gave up on using steel and went with a highly engineered composite.

 

Twisted Fate:
Getting another 3" may not be practically possible with the beam axle. I doubt you have 3" of clearance between the axle and frame unless you are running stock springs (unlikely with a 3" dropped axle), so even if you removed the springs entirely you could only drop it the space you have now without major frame (and likely engine) surgery. If you really want it that low, IFS is in your future. Even if you go that low without adjustable springs (airbags) street driving will be difficult without being able to negotiate over any speedbumps or driveway approaches. Tucking the tires that far up into the fenders will likely limit the turning radius without hitting the underside of the fenders. Getting the rear down to match is going to require major frame surgery and loss of bed capacity. Every mod has consequences, the more radical the mod the more severe the consequences that must be considered and/or worked out.

 

absolutely i understand that... The driving won’t be too bad, I actually use to have an s10 pickup that was only 2 inches from the ground, and i daily drove it like that...the 3" axle won’t be too big a deal seeing as the springs that are in it are drop springs and are a nice progressive spring with multiple leafs. the rear I only want like 2.5" more out of that and i already have my ideas on how... I do really appreciate the info on the shocks i will defiantly, need your help on what your opinion would be as to what shocks I’m to use in the front if you don’t mind. the rear as i said, i have all figured out i just have to figure out a length of the shock.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

 

I can only recommend shock brands, not anything like specific valving or anything like that. I give my suspension specs, vehicle weight and distribution, performance desired to the manufacturer or assembly shop and have them build the shocks for me. It won't be that critical to get max performance out of street shocks, so it's likely they will be able to provide far less expensive alternatives to full custom builds like I use. The high performance shock manufacturers have noticed street rodders are getting more interested in handling and ride (Goodguy's events include an autocross) and is an under served market and have started offering their products to this market. With Bilstein leading the way, others are stepping up to the plate.

 

Thanks AX i appreciate the input and all the help youve provided me!