I have read many times of what to check while have the valve covers off as in doing 50 cent mod which was done to the drivers side but not the passanger side yet. I plan on pulling both sided this weekend and giving everything a good Check. I heve read that you can run the motor while the covers are off and see if there is oil coming from the injectors. I'm mailnly looking for a check list and proceedure of this task. Any help would be appreciated.

 

There's really not much of a check list to go through. Plug back in the 42 pin connector over the driver side valve cover, don't put any rags in the turbo or air intake and then just start her up. Idling for a few minutes without the air intake or CAC tubes won't hurt anything unless you're in the middle of a dust storm.

 

I tried searching for the torque specs of the injectors but cant get good results. Also do you want to see oil coming from the injectors or not. I'm wondering if the o-rings need to be replaced.

 

Lower injector hold down bolt is 120 in lbs. The rocker arm pedestal bolts are 20 ft lbs.

Yes each injector should be spitting oil out the discharge port around the 11 o clock position.

Do you need to see pictures of this stuff?

If you see oil bubbling up from the base of the injector, or if you've got any signs of oil in the bottom of the fuel bowl, then yes injector o-rings would be a good idea. Be sure to only use Alliant o-rings or you'll be doing them again soon.

 

Yes pics would be Great! No oil in the fuel bowl just changed the fuel filter about 500 miles ago. Thanks!

 

Here is a link to the thread I used to do mine. It's the best one I have run across. Was spot on for mine! With , of course, pic's! Credit to F350-6!!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-cent-mod.html


When I had mine apart for this, I cleaned up my intercooler tubes(foil delete), did the CCV reroute. Unfortunately I had a load of oil in my intercooler intake tube and had to remove the intercooler to rinse it out.
If I remenber correctly, I had to take the serpentine belt loose from the tensioner and take the mounting bolts out of the AC compressor(don't disconnect hoses!) to get the passenger valve cover out.
It looks a little intimidating....but its a piece of cake!

 

I've done mine enough that I can have them off in about 45 minutes or less. Just be methodical and keep everything organized. Once you do it a couple of times, you will know what to remove to get them off and when. Now I don't take anything off unnecessarily and always in the same order. While you have them off, get yourself a piece of tubing or a mechanic's stethoscope and listen to the rockers while the engine is running. (Put the end of the tube to the rocker and the other end to one ear) That way you can get an idea of which pushrods or rockers may need to be replaced soon if they are ticking louder than the others.

 

That link covers most of the pictures. For the oil discharge, watch the port in this pic



That's where each injector should spit oil, and they should all spit the same. It's more of a constant dribble with some pressure behind it. Not a lot of pressure, but you'll get the idea.

 

Great thanks for the help! Will give a write up after I'm done. I fell that I'm getting a miss here and there. Have you ever experienced a vibration due to a miss?

 

Here is the video of when I pulled the valve covers. Note the oil coming out. That is what you want to see. It will splatter, but not so much that you cant get your face in there for a good look.

7.3L - Under valve covers - YouTube

Just check the connectors, torque everything you see fit, and look for abnormalities. Brown goop is an abnormality.

(Oh, this is A/Ox4. I was just too lazy to log out of my friends account, and I'm using his comuter )

 

So I've been looking at this too, and I've got a really dumb question that seems relevant.
Is there a reason, good or bad, as to why I should/shouldn't use the blue locktite to keep the bolts torqued?

Basic info: I bought my truck at almost 300k mi, and its really loud, like almost twice as loud as my dad's 2003 7.3 at 80k mi. As far as I can tell I don't have a chip either. I'm also really bad about doing things you shouldn't.

 

I don't see any harm in using medium duty threadlocker, but I would also add that it isn't really necessary, it's just good practice to make sure that everything is still nice and torqued to prevent any further issues, one of those, since you were in there things.

 

I went over 100,000 miles after I torqued mine down before I checked them again. Nothing had loosened up. If you want to use loctite, go ahead. Just be sure to clean the thread well enough that you don't have any oil contamination.

For the rocker arms, I don't suppose this would hurt anything. For the injector bolts, remember you're torquing down against the o-rings sealing against the cup, so if the o-ring were to wear, the bolt with loctite will no longer be at the proper torque spec.

 

Ok. If it hold can hold up for 100k mi, then I won't worry about it. Looking at threads I couldn't get a clear idea on how often I might want to check it, but 100k is a long time from now at 15k mi a year. I'll have to get the torque wrenches so I can actually spec it rather that gudntight it. Thanks for the extra info.
Hopefully I can $.50 mod it before it freezes out, that'd be really nice since I don't have a garage to work in.

 

It is likely my valve covers never came off before I took them off. That was at about 175k miles and there wasnt much wrong in there. Nothing needed to much torquing, and the UCVH clips were still (mostly) in.