I scanned my 2001 7.3 last week after having a rough running session and SES light on with my AE and found a P1280 code so I replaced my IPR with a new Motorcraft ($157.00 on amazon!!). Before I replaced it AE showed about 600 psi all the time, which I understand to mean it was stuck open. With the new one I am getting a low psi of around 580 and a high of 2800 at WOT. Duty cycle runs between 10% and 32%. Injector control voltage is 0. I have cleared codes, but still throw a P1280 code and the SES light is still on. What is my next move? Thanks in advance from all you experts!

 

I'm no expert...first of all. However, I've had to deal with an IPR once before, and again here recently. Not to state the obvious, but make sure you clear the codes in AE. If you're still getting the P1280, then let's proceed.

It may be your ICP sensor going bad. If standing in front of your truck looking into the engine, it will be to the immediate right of your fuel bowl, and on the back left of your alternator. Unplug the wiring harness, and see if there is oil in the connection. If so, your ICP sensor is going bad and will need to be replaced (another $120-150 sensor part). You should be able to start and run your truck with the ICP sensor unplugged, because it will fool the PCM into thinking theres about 2000 psi.

Another quick question...how many miles have you driven since replacing the IPR? It takes about 50 miles before all of the air works it's way out of the system, so you might get these little bumps in the road until you've gone that far. You'll probably notice it takes longer to crank the engine before it starts too...that will shorten until the air is worked out.

 

Thanks for the reply.

1. I did clear codes but still pull P1280 on a new scan.
2. I pulled the connector off the ICP and it is oily, so that could be it.
3. I have not driven very far after replacing IPR, so that could be a problem, although the truck seems to run just fine and starts like normal.

Do you know if I should see Injector Pressure voltage? Seems strange to me that it is always 0 volts when I am driving and monitoring meters on AE.

 

If you haven't done so, blow that oil out of the ICP pocket and the wiring connector. Probably should order a new one ASAP.

As for the IP Voltage...hmmm, I'm not sure. Maybe I'll go hook up AE to one of my trucks and see what I get while driving...

 

Here's a little read.

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/RE...%20ICP-IPR.pdf

 

Thanks for the info, Richard. Just what I was looking for. I just changed the oil and air filter today. No time before work today, I will run tests tomorrow and let you all know what I come up with. Thanks for the help!

 

Just got back from test drive and here are the results:

Injector Control Pressure: 580 at idle, 2800 at WOT pulling a hill
Injector Control Pressure-Volts: 0 at all times
Injector Control Duty Cycle: 10 at idle, 35 at WOT pulling a hill
Engine Oil Temp at time of test: 200-207

I tried testing with ICP sensor connected, then disconnected it, and had the same test results.

I ordered a new ICP sensor this morning, won't see it until the 23rd. Will retest at that time and post the results.

Thank you for the help, FTE the best!

 

I just received and installed my new ICP and ran AE test drive.
I now have voltage at the ICP.. .08 at idle up to around 3.0 at WOT.
Seems I may not have had to change the IPR, but good for peace of mind.
All other sensors are in the same range as before the change. SES light is now gone.

Thanks for the help!

 

 

Good Job Now Have a beer on FTE

 

Not correct. It puts the PCM into a default mode, which it sounds like the truck was in already.

Dont give information your not sure of, it will lead people the wrong way.

 

CSIPSD:

Sorry for "fooling PCM" and "Reset" terminology. As I said, "I'm not an expert."

However, when I have AE hooked up and unplug the ICP sensor, I get 2000 psi on my truck. I've heard 725-750 is "normal," but I've gotten 2000 psi several different times. That's without the truck running...it was while attempting to crank it. What do most people see...is this 2000 psi way too high?

bc2sv:

Glad to hear you found the problem! That's a "simple" solution as far as wrench-turning is concerned. But, not necessarily the cheapest in the world. But just think what the stealership would have charged you for that 5 minutes of labor!!! Probably 3/4 of an hour, plus a $100 "diagnostic fee," plus list price on the part.

 

Good job Brad Do you recall the IPR part # and who did you get your ICP from ?

 

700-750 is about what you will see on a scan tool when the engine is idling and ICP sensor unplugged. 2199 rpm is what I see while cranking (with sensor unplugged). The reading will vary while driving. With ICP unplugged, the number shown is what the PCM expects it to be under similar conditions. That value is used for several power train control calculations, including the transmission line pressure.

The PCM runs a CCM (Comprehensive Component Monitor) test on a regular basis. If a sensor is found to be out of range then the PCM may choose to ignore the value reported and insert a substituted value based on a preloaded table. A SES light may or may not be displayed (depending on the sensor). So, when using AE, you must be aware of the possibility that the value shown on the scan tool may NOT be actual value reported by the sensor. The double check is to look at that particular sensor's volts, hz etc...that way you know for sure that your sensor is effectively 'online'.

For example....there are several readings in AE that are 'calculated' (derived from a look up table). Volume Fuel Desired, Mass Fuel Desired, Engine Coolant Temp, Electronic Pressure Control etc

IPR # is 1841086C91
ICP # is 1807329C92

I think Riffraff and Dieselorings.com has both items...(or maybe they used to at one time). You might need to check their website...

 

I bought both of my sensors from amazon because the price was right and I happen to have Prime, so "no cost" 2 day shipping,(ya I know it's not free, but we don't have stores here)...and amazon's site is pretty good about making sure the part is correct for the vehicle you're buying for, and you can return at no cost. 'cept shipping of course, but we're used to that here.