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this is a 1979 f250 c6 4x4 ca truck. the truck will not idle hot or cold. it runs really good when its above idle.
the choke flap seems to be operating how it should be. the timing is at 8. wires and distrib are put together right. the carb was rebuilt (chem dipped) because the truck wasn't running right. all the linkages were hooked up the right way. the float is at 7/16. when i was putting it together i had to take the rubber spacer/gasket that it about 3/8 of an inch off because it was deteriorating. this spacer went between the carb and the egr spacer. the kit came with 2 paper gaskets for the manifold and the carb. one above and under the egr spacer, maybe get some metal type ones there. when i tested the egr valve, it didn't hold a vacuum. all the vacuum lines where hooked up to the
i know i didn't adjust the fast/slow idle screw could that be the problem
also, the copper line for the heat from the manifold was cut by po and a rubber hose is there now. im going to try spraying wd40 everywhere see if the problem are a lot of leaks, but all the hoses are new
I just rebuilt my 2150 as well but it is electric choke. Being a manual choke and in CA with all your emission hooked up I may not be much help. Do a vacuum check and tinker with your idle screw a little see what happens. If you have already re-built the carb to specs, try spraying carb cleaner around the base and listen for any idle changes could be those gaskets like you said...
they were at 1.5 turns out, and it wouldnt idle so i tried to adjust the curb idle screw but niether seemed to help it idle better. no matter how much i turned them
they were at 1.5 turns out, and it wouldnt idle so i tried to adjust the curb idle screw but niether seemed to help it idle better. no matter how much i turned them
Sounds to me like you have a LARGE vacuum leak. I had a similar problem on my 351. Turns out the nuts that hold the carb down had backed off. Tightened them back up and it runs like a champ again. Carb base, intake manifold, bad brake booster diaphram, or broken/disconnected vacuum line could all be causes. Start with the simple stuff and work your way up.
i got the truck to idle with the air/fuel at 1.5 turns out. i replaced alot of vacuum holes and it helped make it run a bit smoother.
now the problem is that the only way it will idle is when the idle screw is all the way down, not normal? it with idle but if you put it in drive it will die, but if you give it alittle gas when you put it into gear it will not. it does not die if you are driving and come to a complete stop.
it also used about 3-4 gallons of gas idling for about 2 hours, the truck was on empty and i put 5 gallons in. the gauge read a little befroe 1/4 of a tank, now it reads almost on "e" . the truck did this before the rebuild, so i have no clue what it is. i am thinking about replacing the carburetor.
What do you mean by "idle screw all the way down"? Do you mean you have the curb idle screw tightened all the way? Is your idle speed not screaming?
this is the screw that is tighten all the way, not my carb just a reference
what do you mean warped egr plate, i took it off and it look just a little dirty, no holes or aynthing. i guess ill have to check it for flatness, it should flatten when i tighten it? the enigne sometimes has a pulse to it at idle. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXV8A...ature=youtu.be
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