So I got this done a few weeks ago, just didn't post it. I got a different heater mounted that I bought an an auction mounted in the truck. I just need to get a voltage reducer to hook it up. I also got some horns mounted. I got these at the same auction a few years ago. They were mounted side by side on their own bracket, but they are so big that they wouldnt really fit anywhere together. i Decided just to separate the horns and mount them on the hood. They are just mounted with some simple brackets I made. Having more limited access to tools, I have had to make some of my brackets simpler than I would have if I was still in my dads shop, which really isnt a bad thing. These horns are LOUD! they sound like they could be air horns they are that loud. Next thing I'm gonna do is get the anti rattle kit and vent window seals to put the door glass in. I cleaned up the wiring a bit since this picture too.

 

Hey Nick,
No need for a voltage reducer, I have been running 6v heater motors on 12v for years with no issues. What I do is run a switch through a factory resistor network and cut the wire for direct 12v feed. So I get multiple fan speeds and all are with reduced current which seems to let the motors live. I have a similar heater in truck #2, I mounted the resistors inside the top so the moving air keeps them cool.



95 z28 resistor network



I explained the wiring in the build thread but after getting the resistance readings you wire it up off a fan switch.



Keep on crankin on it!

 

If you don't mind me asking, what headers are these and where did you get them? I am putting a 400 in my 51 and header clearance is going to be an issue, I like how these go up first, then point down.

 

Sorry, just saw this now. They are sanderson headers.

 

So I got the tail lights mounted the other day. Now all of my lights are functioning. I also tested my rebuilt wiper motor, and the engine doesn't seem to have enough vacuum to move it all the way. I'm gonna get a vacuum tester to see if its the motor not creating enough vacuum or if its the wiper motor. I also got the door anti-rattle kit and wing window seals. I broke one of my wing window pivots, so I'm going to have to wait until I got home next weekend to get the wing windows off of my parts truck.

 

So i tested the motor, and its makibg 12 inches of vacuum at idle, and i think that should be enough to make the wiper motor move. Ill have to take it apart again to see whats up with it. I might not have put it back together correctly.

 

12" isnt much, that is around what my 383 makes. Stock engines make around 20". I would consider switching to electric or adding a secondary vacuum pump. I have 20" in my 47 caddy and the vacuum wipers work OK but not great. I adapted a jeep wiper motor to my F1 vacuum wiper linkage for cheap electric wipers.

 

I was kind of afraid of that. I was trying to stick with the stock setup because i didn't want to spend the money for an electric conversion and with my new place I don't really have the tools to do any kind of serious fabrication to try and make a different motor work. My parts truck does have a factory electric dual wiper setup on it, so maybe i Will try to get that to work. Does anybody know if he cabs are all stamped for the second wiper hole, or will I need to measure and cut the hole myself?

 

I think they all came with a hole .... my 49 has a cover over the passenger side where the wiper would go.

 

I hear you on the price of the conversions, but it can be done cheap if you want. For wipers I picked up a used 1984-1991 Jeep Cherokee wiper motor and adapted it, total cost with the new switch around $50. Other jeep motors of the same vintage from different models look similar, used ones are all over ebay. I had to make a mounting plate, extend the stock wiper levers, and angle the plate to clear the cowl vent. It took some messing with lever lengths to get the right amount of sweep. I dont plan on using them much but if I get caught in the rain it will be good to have them. It is worth converting IMO, biggest pain is the engine vacuum drops as you get on the gas, so driving up hills the wipers slow down to almost nothing, then they speed up again once you get off the gas. Makes driving in the rain fun!

 

So I took a trip home this past weekend and grabbed a few things from my parts trucks. I got the wiper motor out of the one of the trucks and it is an original electric unit. It only spins slowly with 12 volts hooked to it, SO i think it will need a rebuild. It also looks like a PO filled in the passenger side wiper hole with lead, so I have to decide if I want to try and open that hole up, or just take the passenger side linkage off of this motor.




I also grabbed a couple wing windows and division bars. I got one wing window done, then I broke my other good glass trying to get it out of the frame, so I will need to pick up a new piece of glass.



Looking at the division bar and the included vent window rear edge seal, it looks like my best course of action will be to just glue it on the division bar. The seal is one long piece that I will need to cut in half, and it includes rivets to attach it. The only problem is that there is no metal or anything in the rubber and there are no holes either, so I am thinking that I will just clean up the division bar and glue the seal on.

 

I had my wiper motor rebuilt by The Wiper Man. $100. plus shipping. He tests them at 14 inches, said they need that to run.

 

I had mine rebuilt by the Wiperman too, runs well now, he goes to Carlisle and Hershey

 

Got a few things done the last couple weeks. I got the glass in the doors. The windows seals and felts went in much easier than I was expecting. I also got my windshield wipers all done. I had to drill out the passenger side wiper hole because a PO filled it in with lead. Also had to trim some of the dash reinforcements for the electric wipers to fit. Today I got my seat belts mounted. I also bought a set of inner wheel wells for a 1960 chevy truck to use as wheel tubs. I chose these because they have a flange on the inside so that I can bolt them on rather than weld them, and because they are round and look like they belong on the bed.

 

Well done, Nick! Looks good.