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That's for stone larger than 220lbs, where you must treat each stone as a seperate/individual piece of cargo needing its own restraints. I meant small stone like modified, 2b, 3b etc, and even sand where it is tarped on top and only contained on three sides.
You could have made it WAY easier on yourself and just cut the heads off the bolts in the bed. I replaced the bed on my truck this spring and after breaking of ONE torx bit, I used a cut off wheel on a grinder and cut an X in the heads, then an air chisel to knock the heads off. Order up some new bolts and clips from Tousley Ford Parts Depot and be done with it. Unfortunately, if you live in the rust belt ANY vehicle will rot out, not just Fords.
I've read lots of these bed removal threads and always wonder why on earth anyone would fight with even one bolt, let alone all the bolts. Cut them off and be done with it. Personally, I would buy button-head allens through Fastenal to re-install the bed so I don't have that problem next time, but that's just me. I think all vehicles are full of goofy engineering if you look close enough. From the Ford diesels that are packed so tight you need to remove the cab for service to the 4 threads early V10 spark plugs to the ultra-thin bed floors in all current trucks. There's lots of stuff to make to me scratch my head. I work for a company that's been in business since 1869 and our current management started flooding us with engineers. Last Friday, one of them asked me what we used to do before we hired him. I told hime we would collectively come up with an idea to improve the situation, draw it out on the shop floor with chalk and we would all pitch in and build the solution. Now we run it by our boss, who takes it to the engineer, who draws it with Solidworks, then sends it to us several weeks later. The new plan is never right, so it's sent back to our boss, back to the engineer, then we get the revision a few weeks later. Then we build it, the millwrights install it, modify it to actually fit and almost without fail production rates get lower and costs increase. Gosh, how did we ever make it without engineers?
I feel your pain Scaler. My truck is currently getting new rear quarters put on because of rot through and i love to keep my truck super clean. My girlfriends dad is opening up a shop so i am planning on lifting up the bed and cab now that i have access to all these things. I'm going to coat the entire underside of it and everything and replace al my brakelines fuel lines etc. Its all because other than rust my truck has never let me down and i love it so ill do what i can to keep it from rusting.
Automotive sheet metal has gotten MUCH thinner in the last decade, in an attempt to save weight. The next "newest" vehicle I've owned was built in 1989, and while it was a Chevy, it's bed sheet metal was demonstrably thicker. The '79 Chevy even moreso. I can stand on the tailgate and watch it warp. I can watch the bed floor warp under my weight. It's almost as if beds have become little more than a fashion accessory. Given that over half the folks who own trucks use them as mall crawlers, that might not be an entirely untrue statement.
-blaine
man thats the truth! I weigh 190lbs and ever time i stand on the Super duty tailgate or bed floor you can actually see it flex out and thats with a 1/4" of rhino liner on it. My play truck which is a late model '77 F150 has a bed that could hold a dump truck up. The bed floor is like a piece of 1/2 steel and the tailgate!, that thing is a Sherman tank it never flex's out
i know xmontex4 my truck is spotless everwhere except these junk bed cross supports. And i cant fix it properly with new supports because if i spot weld new ones in it will melt my Rhino Liner so im kinda stuck.....
I dont feel like the bed on my truck is cheap. Most things around you and even you for that matter, require more than one component to exist. Things work in concert. Do you think your body is cheaply made if you remove the skeleton? You'd be pretty damn wobbly. Quit crying about a bad situation and just deal with it. Sorry dude its just how I feel. Its just like the thread about the exposed oil filter that got poked by a stick. Like Ford's engineers are responsible for a freak accident. #*!* happens and it sucks when it does. Ive had well over 2K in my bed and felt just fine with it. Im sure the tie downs, while I do believe they are measly, would hold 2k easily if all 4 mounts were used.
If I hauled heavier weight often I would consider an upgrade on the mounts. With them screwed down with the same go to hell bolts you're talking about.
Not sure how you can compare a tractor trailer to a pick up ???
I may be wrong, but in my opinion a pick up is designed to haul things "in" the bed, not above it. Yes I've done it too, but if I didnt feel comfortable with a large load I didn't haul it "in" my bed, I would use a trailer.
We can't blame Ford for bad weather or chemicles used on the roads we travel.
I'm also in need of a new bed because of rust eating out the rear fenders and now I can see thru my wheel well to the top of my tire. But I don't think that 9 years of abuse from mother nature is in any way Fords fault, My truck has been garage kept since I bought it used in '04, and still I have the same problems with rust.
Maybe we should concern ourselves with getting steel from home instead of the cheap stuff from over seas.
But on the other hand, I wonder who thought that putting a foam rubber strip between the skins above the tire wouldn't invite rust? BRILLIANT !!!
i know xmontex4 my truck is spotless everwhere except these junk bed cross supports. And i cant fix it properly with new supports because if i spot weld new ones in it will melt my Rhino Liner so im kinda stuck.....
I didnt even think of that, i have rhino liner too and i was going to replace my supports soon...ill have to come up with something i guess.
i called the dealer that sprayed the rhino and he said that once in a while they get a truck back where the guy had or did the bed support replacement himself and the liner bubbles where ever spot weld went. I never welded to a piece of metal that was coated but paint yes and yea the paint flaxes a little but the metal is only hot for a few seconds. I was thinking about running a garden hose over the inside of the bed as i weld the new supports in, this way the liner is completely soaked with water and it will keep the liner from popping up or melting. I was also going to get them to spray a small piece of body metal with rhino and then bringing it home and welding over it to see how bad the liner melts and to see if the water will help it out or not?
I was thinking about running a garden hose over the inside of the bed as i weld the new supports in, this way the liner is completely soaked with water and it will keep the liner from popping up or melting. I was also going to get them to spray a small piece of body metal with rhino and then bringing it home and welding over it to see how bad the liner melts and to see if the water will help it out or not?
That's a creative idea that will most likely help. Good thinking, please let us know how it works out!
next Tuesday I'm gonna bring a piece of 12" by 12" 1/8" sheet i have and pay them to coat it to a 1/4" like the bed floor. I'm then gonna spot weld some scrap pieces to it as i run the hose over the Rhino. I'm hoping it will stay cool enough that i can repair my two center bed supports, i hope.....
Thats more like it Scaler. A proactive approach to your problem. I'm thinking the welding still seperates the liner from the bed but the water will help. The steel still needs to reach the appropriate temp for welding and at 1/8" it is awful close. Keep us posted on how this works.
The sheetmetal is thin. Even a tack weld will heat the steel up enough to cause the bed coating to lose adhesion on the other side of the steel. The surrounding bed liner should be able to hold everything together fine though. If your lucky the heat from the weld will just make bed liner soft and tacky and it re-adhere again.
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