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Rough Idle-Im stumped!

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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 04:31 PM
  #16  
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Whats a good way to tell if the PCV valve is bad? I will give the carb cleaner a shot as well.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 05:00 PM
  #17  
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Should hear a ball noise when you shake it, should be closed at idle, pull the hose off and plug it with you finger does motor smooth out?
If bad you probably been using more oil than normal
 
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 07:48 PM
  #18  
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Does the 2010 v10'have egr? I believe the v10 has the egr on the passengers side. Either a stuck open egr or leak in the egr can cause rough idle, stumble, hard start. My v10 doesn't have egr, but I know that pre-modular ford motors had a tendency to develop a crack in the tube running from the passengers side manifold to the egr valve. Caused all sorts of issues. Was often hard to notice because the tube was covered in a heat sleeve.

Sorry if his isn't relevant to your truck but I'm not sure what the newer v10s have. Good luck.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 11:34 AM
  #19  
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Well I spent days pulling and inspecting every single vacuum line on the truck. Vacuum is good so I did a compression check. Cylinder 4 has 0 compression. Gonne pull the valve cover and have a look and then potentially the head to see how bad it is. Prolly gonna be looking for a used engine soon. Anybody know where I can get a better deal than this; salvage engine COMPLETE with 2 year warranty. 4 grand includes shipping. And hey, thanks for everyones input thus far.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 12:34 AM
  #20  
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Well I got the valve cover off and turns out it sucked a valve on #4. Already in the process of pulling the engine. Any Ideas on a good place to get cheap used V-10's?
 
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Old Aug 22, 2012 | 12:11 AM
  #21  
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Well heres an update. I found a used V-10 out of a 2010 F250 on automotix.com. I payed 4 grand including shipping. 32k motor and they gave me a one year warranty. Pretty banging deal if ya ask me. Of coarse I never wanted to drop 4 g's on a engine for my 2 year old truck but I think I got about the best deal out there. Engine pull is coming along. All thats left is bellhousing, motor mounts, and exhaust. Then finish fabricating my piece to bolt to the engine for the picker and jerk it. Any good advice to know before and while dropping in the new one?
 
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Old Aug 22, 2012 | 07:33 AM
  #22  
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Glad you found a decent engine... not too many people have pulled the entire motor, but I think removing all the up-front stuff you can, like grill, radiator, everything, is a good thing
 
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Old Aug 22, 2012 | 12:51 PM
  #23  
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Yup having the front end apart helps a lot. I pulled a 7.3 out of a 99 before and it was actually impossible to get the motor out without removing the radiator, grill, and core support
 
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Old Aug 22, 2012 | 02:47 PM
  #24  
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Ya I have already pulled the radiator and everything up front. It took a while but I am sure going to be glad I did when it comes time to pull it.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 02:12 PM
  #25  
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Why wouldn't you just replace that head? What am I missing? It only had 78,000 miles.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 02:19 PM
  #26  
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While waiting for the OP to chime in, dropping a valve usually ruins at the very least the piston too... and possibly the bore ...
 
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 05:08 PM
  #27  
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Oh yeah! Cylinder wall and piston are the both shot.
 
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