Betty turns oil burner
#1127
co - Looks good as usual.
Mounting Band for 8-1/2" Air Cleaner or Muffler - PowderCoat
#1128
They make manifold and exhaust housing blankets to hold heat in if its of great concern. Most people don't worry about it.
co - Looks good as usual.
Mounting Band for 8-1/2" Air Cleaner or Muffler - PowderCoat
co - Looks good as usual.
Mounting Band for 8-1/2" Air Cleaner or Muffler - PowderCoat
That's a pretty cool clamp. I'd have to make some sort if platform for it though. I may just end up doing that or a big t bolt clamp.
#1129
I'm not too familiar with diesels, but I figure the cooler the air in the better. But if the inter-cooler works good, I suppose it all balances out. What kind of temps are you shooting for post intercooler?
By the way, have you looked into getting the turbo housing coated? There's a shop up here that'll do headers and manifolds, and they say they'll do turbo housings too. I've never used it but I've heard good things.
Sam
By the way, have you looked into getting the turbo housing coated? There's a shop up here that'll do headers and manifolds, and they say they'll do turbo housings too. I've never used it but I've heard good things.
Sam
#1130
I don't know your dimensions, but thought you could possibly mount it to the support bracket you made for your heat shield, but you would know better than me as I am just going by pictures. I also figured with your handy work you could bend one pretty quickly out of some strap.
My truck idles around 300-320 degrees in the exhaust manifold, the compressor brings the air in compresses it to around 400 degrees under load before going into the intercooler. At speed with airflow over the motor how hot is the engine bay really? I don't think its over 400 degrees in there. Just my thoughts.
My truck idles around 300-320 degrees in the exhaust manifold, the compressor brings the air in compresses it to around 400 degrees under load before going into the intercooler. At speed with airflow over the motor how hot is the engine bay really? I don't think its over 400 degrees in there. Just my thoughts.
#1131
I don't know your dimensions, but thought you could possibly mount it to the support bracket you made for your heat shield, but you would know better than me as I am just going by pictures. I also figured with your handy work you could bend one pretty quickly out of some strap.
My truck idles around 300-320 degrees in the exhaust manifold, the compressor brings the air in compresses it to around 400 degrees under load before going into the intercooler. At speed with airflow over the motor how hot is the engine bay really? I don't think its over 400 degrees in there. Just my thoughts.
My truck idles around 300-320 degrees in the exhaust manifold, the compressor brings the air in compresses it to around 400 degrees under load before going into the intercooler. At speed with airflow over the motor how hot is the engine bay really? I don't think its over 400 degrees in there. Just my thoughts.
Under full load exit temp of the turbo should be around 400 degrees. Exit from the intercooler at speed and load I'd guess to be less than 300 degrees. They do an amazing job of scrubbing off heat. Intake temp has some effect but not as much on a turbocharged vehicle.
#1132
I'm not too familiar with diesels, but I figure the cooler the air in the better. But if the inter-cooler works good, I suppose it all balances out. What kind of temps are you shooting for post intercooler?
By the way, have you looked into getting the turbo housing coated? There's a shop up here that'll do headers and manifolds, and they say they'll do turbo housings too. I've never used it but I've heard good things.
Sam
By the way, have you looked into getting the turbo housing coated? There's a shop up here that'll do headers and manifolds, and they say they'll do turbo housings too. I've never used it but I've heard good things.
Sam
I have, however I cannot do it for a year as the turbo has a warrantee. I may just buy one of those turbo insulators.
#1133
#1134
Thank you.
As far as grade 8's go. I use them on everything. Pretty much every bolt on my truck has been replaced with them. I buy them in bulk here locally for really cheap. I buy them by the pound, and usually get around two, 1 gallon zip locks of grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers for about $60.00. It doesn't hurt that I hate grade 5 bolts. I have snapped more then a few off. It also seems that the plating on 8's stand up to corrosion better as well.
As far as return on investment goes, I will get it eventually. I never go into a project expecting one though. Especially on this truck. I'll never sell her, she'll probably outlast me at this rate.
#1136
I've never built an engine or vehicle before, but the feeling of accomplishment of getting a tractor that hadn't ran in 10+ years running probably gave me a taste. I am very jealous of this truck build and hope I have the time and money to do something similar if for nothing else just to prove to myself I can.
#1137
I've never built an engine or vehicle before, but the feeling of accomplishment of getting a tractor that hadn't ran in 10+ years running probably gave me a taste. I am very jealous of this truck build and hope I have the time and money to do something similar if for nothing else just to prove to myself I can.
As a side note. Every time I need a special tool or book for the job, I buy that tool or find the book. Then I should never need it again.
When I have a project to do and have parts, I do something every day no matter how small. Makes things go a lot quicker that way.
#1138
Cerakote is a newer style coating that has many different styles of coating, just so happens my buddy rents shop space to the only company in Wa that does Cerakote. Hea did the headers in his blown Fox body and at full operating temp you can almost touch them. I was VERY impressed with it to say the least, waiting to get my Doug Thorleys back from having him coat them now.
Seems the press brake does a great job even on the longer heat shield.
Can't you just drill a hole in the end cap of the filter and use a bolt/nut to a piece of strapping for support? Probably tac the bolt on (if metal end cap) or epoxy it to eleminate the chance of it going in the turbo. Or add a screen in the pipe at the filter attachment.
Seems the press brake does a great job even on the longer heat shield.
Can't you just drill a hole in the end cap of the filter and use a bolt/nut to a piece of strapping for support? Probably tac the bolt on (if metal end cap) or epoxy it to eleminate the chance of it going in the turbo. Or add a screen in the pipe at the filter attachment.
#1140
Cerakote is a newer style coating that has many different styles of coating, just so happens my buddy rents shop space to the only company in Wa that does Cerakote. Hea did the headers in his blown Fox body and at full operating temp you can almost touch them. I was VERY impressed with it to say the least, waiting to get my Doug Thorleys back from having him coat them now.
Seems the press brake does a great job even on the longer heat shield.
Can't you just drill a hole in the end cap of the filter and use a bolt/nut to a piece of strapping for support? Probably tac the bolt on (if metal end cap) or epoxy it to eleminate the chance of it going in the turbo. Or add a screen in the pipe at the filter attachment.
Seems the press brake does a great job even on the longer heat shield.
Can't you just drill a hole in the end cap of the filter and use a bolt/nut to a piece of strapping for support? Probably tac the bolt on (if metal end cap) or epoxy it to eleminate the chance of it going in the turbo. Or add a screen in the pipe at the filter attachment.
I did not know cerakote did high temp stuff. I have a couple of gun smithing projects that I want to cerakote myself. I'll have to look into that for sure. Headers get hot, but turbo housings can get up over 1000 degrees. If it will hold up to that it's some awesome stuff.
Yes, I have considered drilling a hole and attaching it that way. I just don't like the chance of that bolt coming loose, and being ingested. If I go that route I will drill the bolt for a cotter pin at a minimum.
Thank you, sir!