There is an inch or two play, but we can cut different ones to get you more room. Plus I have an idea for side to side movement fix too. Hit me up when you're ready & we'll discuss.

Now back to the thread at hand. Looking GOOD Brandon. I wish mine was going through this much detail. With how much fab I was doing on the truck I was just gonna run the motor as-is for a while & hope it's as good as the seller claimed...

Man I wish I could get back to work on mine, but seems it will be a few months...

Also - safe to assume the "silver" parts on the motor are cleaned up, wire wheeled and clear coated? Love the look - how'd you do it?

 

Without that O-ring it would leak coolant all over the place. I'm not sure what O-ring you are referring too. I have absolutely no smog or EPA parts on this engine.

 

All of the silver parts and all of the bolts I bead blasted, then had them clear cadmium plated. When I got them back I buffed everything with OOOO steel wool.



Also thanks everyone for the kind words.

I have a little bit more to do then it's save up time for the actual swap. I still need to buy an air dog, injectors, turbo, radiator, fuel tank, starter, alternator, batteries Etc. Plus I'm sure a couple hundred dollars in nickel and dime crap.

 

VERY nice! Did you find a place that still actually does cadmium, or is it clear zinc? The place I used to get cad only does zinc now.

 

Yep!! They still do both zinc and cad. It's metal finishing group in Sacramento. I didn't think I'd find a place either that still did cad but luckily I did. Especially since cad is way more corrosion resistant than zinc.

 

If you don't mind too much, how much was it to get that lot plated? I used to have a guy down here in the Bay Area that did CAD but it seems he had been out of business for a few years when I got back from England.

 

Merely a joke. I wound up with extras in my gasket sets. One must have been yours.

 

It was $150.00 for the bolts and brackets and $250.00 for the rest. Considering all new metric bolts already zinc plated would have been way over $400.00. Not bad in my book.

 

That sir is a damn fine deal, I will most def be giving them a call! Thanks for the info, reps your way

 

Keep in mind you'll need to strip the sheet metal yourself. They don't do stripping for big stuff. However they do strip nuts and bolts in an acid tank.

 

Cool to hear they still do Cad. Hard to find now-a-days in Commiefornia! Wish I could find a place down by me.

Also - a side note on the stripping before:
Plating comes out "shinier" if you wire wheel the parts clean or a bit more "matte" if you sandblast them.

 

Small update for this weekend. I got the O-ring I needed, and got the water inlet all buttoned up.



After that the belt tensioner.



Got the valve covers painted. Except for the 4bt oil fill cover. I ended up ordering a 6bt industrial cover as the bolt holes are further inset for some reason on the cover I have. I'll have the new cover by weeks end then those can go on.



This is how she sits. I have to put on the fuel pump block off, and the valve covers. Then it's waiting for money time.

 

Dayummmm that Cummins is looking good! I bet you can't wait to drop her in between the frame rails. Nothing but fantastic work, keep it up. I've enjoyed watching this truck evolve.

 

I'm telling you, I am itching to yank that 460 out. Unfortunately, I need to get a few more parts before ill do that. My plan is to have as many parts as I can think of bought and ready to go. Then I'll strip her down and get to work. I want to keep the down time as short as possible.

 

With the extensive masking you are doing on some things I'm surprised what you don't mask off, like the inside of the water neck, do you plan on running a coolant filter for when the paint comes off and into the coolant system?

I image with the great quality of work and extra efforts on appearance that you will be heavily cleaning and painting/coating inside the engine compartment while there's nothing in there? I used Duplicolor Undercoat on the firewall when the engine bay was empty, seems to be holding up great, looks pretty good and was a very minimal improvement in sound/heat insulation. Cost me about $10 as compared to the much more expensive Lizard Skin and other brands.

Kind of a ramble and unfortunately I routinely fail at picture posts so that drags out explanations.