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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

? about my 96

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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 11:01 PM
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? about my 96

Hello everybody. New guy here. I just bought a 96 F250 today. It's a 460 with a E4OD trans (that's what this site tells me anyway Comprehensive Chevrolet, Saturn, GMC, Hummer, Cadillac, Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Geo, Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Chrysler, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda Truck, Mercedes VIN Decoder ) 4x4 short bed extended cab XL with 147xxx miles. I've not really had time to check it out real good but as far as I can tell it is BONE STOCK. Needs timed and a trans pan gasket. Anyway, is they're anything I should take care of now while I'm working on it? Any known problems or anything? And did these trucks have a smog pump? Seen something towards the bottom of the belt there but like I said I haven't even crawled under it yet. Needs a little work but the deal was too good to pass up. Appreciate any help. Ya'll have a good one.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 11:38 PM
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In addition to a tune up, and fixing known problems:
-scan for codes
-check for other oil/ fuel/ coolant leaks
-check the radiator support. If a battery leaked, it'll be rusted to hell
-check your cab mounts too
-check your cab corners/ rear fenders for rust
-these trucks were recalled long ago for the fuel tank switch being faulty. If you were using the front tank, unused fuel would return to the rear tank, causing possible overflow. I don't use both so not really a problem.

But there are many, many more repairs you could do but I couldn't type them all. That's where I known common faults exist
 
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 12:39 PM
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Good deal. One more question. Looking at the timing chains it says if you retard the chain, it gives more high end HP, and if you advance you get more low end grunt. My truck has 4:10 gears going by the VIN decoder and I plan on running the stock tire size. Going to delete all the emission stuff and put a good exhaust and cold air of some sort on. Nothing major. Plan on pulling a small camper off and on. The truck should have enough low end for me so I figure just retarding it to get more high end. Or should I just set it at factory settings?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Super Goob
Good deal. One more question. Looking at the timing chains it says if you retard the chain, it gives more high end HP, and if you advance you get more low end grunt. My truck has 4:10 gears going by the VIN decoder and I plan on running the stock tire size. Going to delete all the emission stuff and put a good exhaust and cold air of some sort on. Nothing major. Plan on pulling a small camper off and on. The truck should have enough low end for me so I figure just retarding it to get more high end. Or should I just set it at factory settings?
I'd say if you are unsure, use the factory setting. Drive it awhile and see where it need some more grunt and adjust accordingly. One thing I forgot to mention before, make sure you check for oil leaks around the pan. My oil pan i getting rusted out while most everything else is rust free. Can't wait to see this being built. Make sure emissions mods are legal where you live. I can't modify mine beyond mufflers because I have an emissions test every other year. Headers are a good mod for relatively cheap to get more power
 
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 07:27 PM
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Yeah, might just stick with factory timing. It looked better than I thought rust -wise but still need to check it out real good. Rained all day and no garage I'm in Ky so anything goes, no emission check Appreciate the help. Now to order parts.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Super Goob
Yeah, might just stick with factory timing. It looked better than I thought rust -wise but still need to check it out real good. Rained all day and no garage I'm in Ky so anything goes, no emission check Appreciate the help. Now to order parts.
Go with Flowmasters!
 
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