Hello:
My turn signal died today. I bought a new turn signal switch, that goes in the fuse box, that didn't fix it. Check the fuses, all good.
Mechanic says I need a new switch in the steering column.
I look online and there are two choices for turn signal switch. One is about $23 and looks like a plastic switch assembly. The other choice is about $73 and includes wiring, plugs, I see a new hazard switch, I see a light bulb, etc..
Is there a way to know which 'switch' I need before going in?

Can someone give me an idea about what's involved in replacing it. Wheel doesn't tilt, if that is an issue. I've heard the parts store will lend a steering wheel pulling tool. Is it something a low level guy could do?

Thank-you for the help.

 

This is something you could tackle on your own with a little bit of patience. Make sure you get a quality part, though, I had to do it twice in my '83 because I got a faulty one and then one that failed shortly after installation. The plastic cam in the one that I have now actually cracked but the switch still works and will pass inspection so I kinda "gave up."

As far as which one to buy, go for the expensive one; the cheap one is most likely the cam that goes into the switch, and if yours is failing electrically, that won't solve your problem. They sell the plastic bits separate as those are prone to breaking (which you can tell by your stalk not auto-correcting or behaving strangely).

To do this, you will need a steering wheel puller. Auto part stores DO rent them out, however I bought a simple one for all of maybe $15. They are universal, so if you feel you may need to pull a wheel again, just buy one.

First, take the horn cover off of the steering wheel via two screws on the backside. Then there's a large nut right in the center, I am hard pressed to say what size but any big wrench will take care of it as it's just a regular nut. Once that is off, use the puller and gently pop the wheel. The switch is the first thing you'll encounter in the column, just undo the screws. The wires connect down near the fuse box area with a simple gray horseshoe connector, so putting the new one on is "plug and play." Then put it all back together and you're good to go!

ALSO! Before you pull that wheel, make sure you mark its position relative to the column, you don't wanna put it back on crooked!

Have fun!

 

Thanks Caleb:
My auto correct function quit, when turning right, a long time ago. Now the turn signal doesn't work at all. Does this mean I will need both, the plastic parts and the full switch? Is the plastic part difficult to change out?
My mechanic wants $130 labor to do the job.

Thanks again.

 

It shouldn't have a light bulb. Those were for the transmission indicators that were located on the top of the column. E-Series, and F-series before 1980.

The Motorcraft Part Number is E1HZ-13341-K. Fits: 1980-1983 with fixed column. This includes the self cancel cam. Ford never sold the cam seperate.


Most people can do this swap. You may find, and most likely will have to remove the wires from the connector to run them down the column, and reinsert them in the correct order. Make a little diagram of where the wires go into the connector (looks like a horseshoe shape). If you can do that, you shouldn't have a problem swapping it out.

Both my cancel cams have been broke for years. I've got the habit of turning them off manually.

 

Thank-you.

 

Are there any more tips or techniques for running the connector/wires down the steering wheel column.? Do they pass through a hollow tube? Could you push them through?

When you removed the old switch, did you just pull the wires out the floorboard end of the column?

Thank-you.

 

So if you don't care about the return function, can you not even have the plastic cam installed?

Thanks.

 

The wires are attached to the switch and must come out/go in from the top.

 

Thanks.

One more question, for now. How do the wires connect/disconnect from the horseshoe shaped connector?

 

Not really, it's already installed and a part of the switch. Part of the cancel cam has a wire attached, so you can't remove it.

Buying the cancel cam seperate is a aftermarket idea that doesn't really work too well. As I said, Ford never sold it seperately.

In some states they have to cancel in order to pass inspection, as it is listed in the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

As I said, my switches self cancel cam has been broke for years, and California doesn't care.

 

If you find that you need to remove the wires, the wires are locked into the connector with plastic tangs that hold the metal terminals in place.

You would need a precision screwdriver or preferably a wire removal tool, to "unlatch" them, taking care not to damage the locking tangs (otherwise the wires will just fall out).

 

Thank-you.

 

But first pull the red retainer (should be new one for the new switch in the box).

A jeweler's screwdriver or dental pick will work, too.

 

Thank-you all.

I've ordered a new switch. It will take a few days to arrive.

 

My dealer has the main switch and the plastic cancel cam sold separately. I hope to keep the plastic cam that's in there and just replace the wired switch. I didn't order a replacement cam, just the actual switch. I'm assuming since guys replace just this cam when it breaks, that I can just replace the actual switch.

Should this be OK?

Thank-you.