Alternator gone, I think. This will be number 4 in about 2 years for the NAPA super delux lifetimer. One lasted 2 days. I'm discussed and tired of paying the local mechanic $250 labor and thought after reading umpteen post here I would give it a try.
Seems my truck is unlike any other, even the pulley diagram posted on the radiator is different than the truck. It shows two pulleys between the alternator and the A/C comp when there is one
The idle pulley is right above the A/C comp. I can see the latch but can't get my hand on it. I can barely see the 1/2" hole in the bracket for the ratchet and there appears no way to put a wrench in it. All the plastic around the fan really puts a cramp in things
Thinking seriously about unbolting the alternator and tilting to remove. It's the installation that has me concerned. After five hours of brickwall I'm open for suggestions
Thinking about upgrading alternator and was going to use this one as a test run.

 

Remove the small upper arced part of the fan shroud with a very small flat screwdriver. This will give you easy access to what you want to do. Tilting the alternator forward for removal is common and some folks here can change one in less than 10 minutes. Myself, I have to **** the tensioner, which can be a bear and might require a belt tensioning tool (Sears).


For an alternator try DC Power. A little more money but WELL worth the upgrade. I know of no one on here with one that has had an issue as of yet and there are several people running them.

FWIW--$250 labor to change an alternator is RAPE.

 

Thanks my man, just the answer I was looking for.

 

There are a couple (at least) ways to go at this job.

1. put a pry par beside the alternator, inside the belt and pry against the base of the alternator where the front bolt (drivers side) goes into the intake. While holding tension on the belt reach under the tensioner and flip the "kickstand" up and hold it while releasing tension on the belt. I'll post a picture for you if I can figure out how to post someone else's.

2. grab the belt with both hands while standing by the passengerside fender. pull real hard to get some slack, it will take both hands to move it but once you have some slack you can hold it with one hand and flip the kickstand up with the other.

3. pull back the rubber piece where the small shroud piece connects to the main part of the shroud (looks like a strip of small tubing) you will see there are several locking tabs where the two pieces meet. using a small screwdriver, work your way around the tabs and remove the small "eyebrow" panel from the main shroud, be careful, it breaks easy. this will give you room to put a tool in the 1/2 drive slot on the tensioner.

4. just unbolt the alternator, it's a bit of a pain to put back on but it can be leveraged back in place.

personally, I used to do #3, but #1 works a little better. My discription isn't great, but I'll try to come back and post a picture for you. theres a good one floating around here somewhere.

 

Does your truck have a second alternator? Might be the difference. I've got the same year and I've only got one alternator. Might be something to check and if it's bad it would kill the upper alternator in no time. Some of these trucks were intended to become service vehicles. (ambulance, telephone truck, tow trucks, etc)
Short plastic is just snapped in. Easy to break thou. If you break Tousley's got 'em for $36. ( I know)
I tilted my alternator when I removed for EGR delete. Very doable. Suggest a pair of these babies. 16" Solid Steel Pry Bar Fits the bolt hole nicely and good leverage.
Also there is a "kickstand" under the idler pulley. You release tension on the pulley the push kickstand into place. Leaves belt slack.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-change-3.html
See post #31.

Good Luck

 

that was my thought.... if you did have two alternators,
and one was bad.... well, it might not kill the second alternator,
but it would play hell with the batteries. on the van's, i think
dueling alternators are one right under the other, but i don't
know about trucks.

unless the second alternator feeds storage batteries, like in
ambulance service. some of the upfitters have a completely
separate system, separate alternator, separate batteries from
the vehicle system.... some of the big stereo guys do that as well.

if it were me, and i had dual alternators, i think i'd unplug
and disconnect one, and leave it there as idler to keep the
belt configuration, and put in a nice size DC Power alternator,
and just run off one alternator.

besides, one 280 amp DC power is equal to two lame ford 140
amp oem's, that don't charge the batteries fully.

 

looks like the guys have you taken care of

here is a pic of the kickstand



and a few pics of the dc power alt with wire upgrade

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - BLADE35's Album: DC Power Alternator & Wire Upgrade

 

Old off new on, minor damage to me and the truck. Did manage to break the mini shroud in the first 15 minutes. JB weld both sides and a shot of black spray paint, better than new.
I did notice the LP indicated these rates:
Output@6000rpm".....117 amps
Output@2000rpm"......82 amps
Volt set point.............14.48 volts
Ripple current.............27 amps
Leakage current..........0.46 m amps

I want to upgrade to DC power and noticed the min rating offered by DC Power Eng. is 185 AMP OEM. Seem like a big difference from what I have. Am I reading this right?
The 185 @ DC Power is$270 and the 190Amp is $340. Why pay $70 for +5 Amps?

 

I thought htat was Odd to the price diffrence between 185amp vs 190amp was alot IDK why either besides 5 amps

Of coarse there is a 5 amp diff but 190amp might have little better Guts IDK for shure

I went 190amp FWIW

would have went 250amp or 270amp but wasnt in the budget at that time

If your not planning on installing some High power Option on the truck 185amp should be OK

 

and Yes thats the smallest 185amp

one of those things here that Bigger IS Better IMO

IIRC the 190amp has diff diodes than 185amp

call DC power and ask there great guys there if you do post what you find thanks

 

Hi, my alternator went out last night and I went out this am to pull and noticed the serp belt needs replacing. I've spent the past two hours trying to determine how to bet alt and belt off. I BUSTED MY SHROUD

 

After reading through this thread it seems pretty complete. We can answer any questions you might have.

Welcome to FTE!

 

I have a question about a fuse that is found in under the hood box. Fuse number 4. All other fuses in the section have what looks like 2 small mercury ***** (BB size) but my number 4 is just a solid piece of what looks like copper. Not sure if this is standard or if the fuze is blown. I also can't find my user manual to see what it is for. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. thank you

 

Hmm.. Fuse #4 isn't used on my truck (2006). Do you have any special factory or aftermarket accessories?


^^^----under hood fuse panel

 

It must have been num 8 because mine looks just like the one in the pic. thanks..sorry I posted on wrong thread.