Hi guys..

my blunder with the radiator/fan/condenser has proven itself to be a major deal...

the combo I have now won't fit... my only solution short of cutting firewall and all that entails is find a skinny fan with a decent cfm.

My current spall 16" hipro puller pulls 2360 cfm... and is 3.5" thick... I have 2.75" total...

cooling components offers a 16" slim fan that offers 2000 on low and 2600 on high...

http://www.charlotterod.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=66

anyone have any experience with them ??? Brizio uses them, Alloway and Walton's use them too... Money back guarantee.. sounds like the answer to my problem...

what say you, gurus

later
john

 

Hi John,
I have no experience with that exact fan but all these brushless fans are pretty reliable.

If I understand correctly it looks like you are going to have to move the condenser forward OR . . . if the condenser has enough frontal area, add shrouding between it and the radiator. It shouldn't require much to cover that 2.75" gap and you can mock it up with cardboard and duct tape to test the efficiency. Then if it is OK use the cardboard cutouts as templates for something more permanent. This should allow your current HiPo puller to suck through both cores. You might have to go to a larger fan and install shrouding behind the radiator. I see that the Cooling Component fans in the link that you included come with shrouds. CC-CCI-1730 might be a good choice depending upon your measurements. Add some pictures to your next post.

 

Pete... it's not a shroud issue or condenser issue... I physically don't have room to get the condenser/radiator/fan combo between the air dam and the water pump pulley snout...

that's why I'm looking for a thinner fan and was hoping someone has used the CC unit... attached a pic

john

 

Hey John, is there any way that fan can be reversed (so you would mount it on the outside of the radiator, see pic below) and wire it to push the air rather than pull the air through the radiator? I believe any DC electric fans will change rotation (reverse) if you reverse the polarity on the wires.

Wally

1951 F1 - "Lucille"

 

A pusher fan is not nearly as efficient as a puller fan since the blades block airflow thru the radiator, especially at highway speed where the natural airflow may be higher than that of the fan. I have no experience with that fan, but those are some strong endorsements and guarantees, what is your concern?

 

Reversing the polarity worked on mine but AX is right. Pushers are not very efficient. And sometimes the blade configuration makes it worse. I was lucky and was able to change mine from a pusher to a puller.

 

Just to confuse the subject a little further I read this:
When a fan spins, air passes from behind to the front through the blades. The blades rotate and a pressure differential is generated between areas of the forward facing and backward facing surfaces. Because of this difference, air is thrusted from behind to the front via the blades. Key point is: higher pressure in the back, lower pressure in the front. Air molecules are accelerated from behind.
So, when a fan is used to pull air, its rear is obstructed and it is relatively more difficult to develop a higher pressure zone. To be more precise, it is harder to develop that pressure differential.
Contrarily, if a fan is used to push air, its front is obstructed but its rear is clear. So it can formulate a higher pressure zone relatively easier.

Now keep in mind I have no idea who wrote this article and I think the general consensus (based on tons of opinions regarding the subject of push or pull radiator fans) is that a pull or push fan both will work, so if it's the only place to mount it, I'd put it there. Just my two cents for what it's worth.

Wally

1951 F1 - "Lucille"

 

Wally, that is one explanation for how a fan works, but I think the problem comes in with the use of push and pull in the highlighted text. It is opposite the common usage of push and pull here. when mounted in front of the radiator we say it is pushing air, but the front is unobstructed. When mounted behind the fan is pulling air (thru the radiator) the rear of the fan is unobstructed. If the radiator is fixed (the vehicle is not moving) the fan will work at fairly similar efficiency in either position. It's when we add the air flow due to movement through the air by a moving vehicle does the efficiency change. Now with a front mounted fan the pressure increases in front of the fan, decreasing the relative pressure behind. The blocking affect of the blades themselves must also be considered in a moving vehicle. With a front mounted fan the blades cover a certain percentage of the fan's area. As the air pressure in front of the fan increases with vehicle speed the blades are spinning slower relative to the air flow and soon they blocking more of the air thru the radiator than it pushes. With the fan mounted behind the radiator the increased pressure due to vehicle movement increases the airflow thru the radiator. the fan's blocking effect in reduced because once the air has gone thru the radiator what ever air is blocked by the fan blades just spills out around it with minimal reduction (unless the fan is enclosed by a shroud, but that's another topic! )

 

wally... can't put it in front the grill mounts directly to the front air dam...if I had the room in front of the condenser I'd just move everything forward... but I'm looking for pieces of inches here... if you're gonna do something wrong...do something wrong BIG!!!!! .

AX no concerns really, most of these type fans are pretty reliable I just wanted to hear from someone that used one... this one also comes with a shroud which should help also... guess I just need to pull the trigger on it and move on...

j

 

As I've alluded to above shrouds are not always a good thing unless you are an undertaker.

 

[QUOTE=AXracer;12103421]As I've alluded to above shrouds are not always a good thing unless you are an undertaker. [/QUOT

sooo what would be optimum is a puller (behind the radiator) in a shroud that would have vanes or opening louvers that would open at highway speed to allow max air flow thru the radiator... then close at idle or slow speed to let the fan pull thru the radiator as designed... cool... when you gonna market that Chuck ???

I'll buy one... if it's skinny

j

 

[quote=jniolon;12103652]That would be the ideal solution. Could be tapered rubber flaps over vents in the shroud that would bend open.

 

The Fan Man carries a fan called the Sidewinder that is only 1-5/8 at the center. The motor is offset from the axle of the fan, this makes the center much thinner.

 

Think of the shroud as a funnel you are pouring water thru into a bucket. The neck of the funnel only allows the water to run into the pail at a certain speed. That fine if you only want to pour slowly, the water runs into the pail without any problems. But if you pour faster soon the funnel can't pass the water as quick as you are pouring it and the funnel overflows. A wide necked funnel will flow faster, but will still reach it's limit at a much lower rate than you could pour the water into the bucket without the funnel. Put an obstruction in the funnel neck, say a couple strips of metal, and the maximum flow rate will decrease more. If you cut holes in the tapered part of the funnel, when the funnel filled enough to reach the holes the flow rate would increase again, and since the higher flow rate is filling the bucket as fast as needed it doesn't mater that some of the water missed the bucket, but might be an issue when pouring at a slower speed since some of the water might accidentally go out those holes and miss the bucket.
Now if you put spring loaded flaps over the outside of the holes that would close them off to the water when the flow is low, but open when the funnel began to reach it's capacity we would have the ideal least restrictive funnel.

 

CharlieLed, I seem to remember you doing some pretty fancy horse-shoe/core support mods to accomodate an custom aluminum radiator... this train of thought may be what John is looking for..it may be alot of extra work to gain 1/2" or so, but..hey, isn't that where we all are when leaning to the darkside?

John, so you need more clearence between the waterpump and the radiator??...
what if we move the radiator 'forward' that amount..+/- 3/4" ??