Syncromesh Colum Shifter Adjustment Procedure???
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Syncromesh Colum Shifter Adjustment Procedure???
Does anyone know where to find the procedure for adjusting the colum shift rods and slides on the side of my 1973 syncromesh 3spd? I have tried multiple searchs, either I get 25 pages of non helpful results or it returns no threads found.
Also does anyone know what fluid was required from the factory, and the approx amount?
Thank you, I am new here. If I am screwing up let me know.
Steve
Also does anyone know what fluid was required from the factory, and the approx amount?
Thank you, I am new here. If I am screwing up let me know.
Steve
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From: S.E. WI
Isn't there a place to stick a phillips screw driver or a 1/4 in. drill bit through the levers and into a line up hole, at the bottom of the column? That would be the neutral setting for the column, then the rods would be disconnected from the the trans and adjusted to align with the trans levers in their neutral position.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Does anyone know where to find the procedure for adjusting the column shift rods and slides on the side of my 1973 syncromesh 3spd?
I have tried multiple searchs, either I get 25 pages of non helpful results or it returns no threads found.
Also does anyone know what fluid was required from the factory, and the approx amount?
90 weight gear lube, but I don't recall the amount.
I have tried multiple searchs, either I get 25 pages of non helpful results or it returns no threads found.
Also does anyone know what fluid was required from the factory, and the approx amount?
90 weight gear lube, but I don't recall the amount.
The levers have threaded studs, the studs fit thru the rods, nuts retain them in place.
Question: Why do you need to adjust the rods? Is the shift lever binding up between 1st & 2nd (as usual
)?At the bottom of the steering column under the hood are the two manual control selector levers that the shift rods attach to.
In each one of these levers is a rubber bushing and insulator. The bushings age crack/disintigrate...the shift lever binds up. Very common problem.
Some of these trucks, instead of rubber bushings/insulators, use nylon bushings in the levers, they snap in. It's the same old story: The nylon bushings crack apart...the shift lever binds up.
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Well I was kinda hoping it would only be a adjustment issue.
Thank you both for your replies and help.
It seems to be a transmission issue. It did this night before last as well. I knew it needed a clutch and throwout bearing. I could hear it and feel it. Changed clutch and throwout, reassmbled with new fluids. In the air in first it kicks and shakes, and rings like a bell. The same in reverse but not as bad. In nuetral on the ground if you push it, it feels like there is a place where you are trying to push it over huge rocks forward or backwards. If you drive forward or backward, it kicks and shakes and jumps. Take off in second its smooth, third is smooth. Remove rear driveshaft and push it, forward or back, smooth. Put truck in 1st or Reverse no drive shaft, it kicks, jumps, and acts crazy. Second and Third smooth.
I think I need a transmission or a rebuild.
I have found that I can have a 9.25" or 9.75" case, and a 7.5" ext, 14.5" or 14 and 7/8th" extension. Where should I measure to get the right part. I am pretty sure the extension is the tail shaft, and the case is measured just right across the top, right?
Thank you both for your replies and help.
It seems to be a transmission issue. It did this night before last as well. I knew it needed a clutch and throwout bearing. I could hear it and feel it. Changed clutch and throwout, reassmbled with new fluids. In the air in first it kicks and shakes, and rings like a bell. The same in reverse but not as bad. In nuetral on the ground if you push it, it feels like there is a place where you are trying to push it over huge rocks forward or backwards. If you drive forward or backward, it kicks and shakes and jumps. Take off in second its smooth, third is smooth. Remove rear driveshaft and push it, forward or back, smooth. Put truck in 1st or Reverse no drive shaft, it kicks, jumps, and acts crazy. Second and Third smooth.
I think I need a transmission or a rebuild.
I have found that I can have a 9.25" or 9.75" case, and a 7.5" ext, 14.5" or 14 and 7/8th" extension. Where should I measure to get the right part. I am pretty sure the extension is the tail shaft, and the case is measured just right across the top, right?
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Measurements are going to be for length of case, from where it mates to the bell, back to the extension housing mating surface. And length of extension housing, from case mating surface back to the end, where the rear seal is. Do not include the seal boot if it has one, or the part of the tail shaft that extends from the seal. Sounds like you did a thorough series of test's. If you remove the cover, I bet you'll find a tooth broken off at the rear of the counter gear.
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Thank you very much. I figured when I drained it I would see metal flake or shiney fluid if there was a problem. It was just very very black. I will measure when I get home from work tonight, and start the hunt.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Ford type 3.03 3 speed manual all syncro trans. The following parts are the same: 1963/83 F100; 1965/86 E100; 1966/77 Bronco; 1975/86 E/F150:
Gasket set; small parts kit (snap rings & washers); front & rear bearings, seals; 1st gear syncro brass blocker ring (1), 3 shoes; 2nd/3rd syncro brass blocker rings (2) and 3 shoes.
1973: There are two different cluster gears listed in the parts catalog. Other internal parts may be the same, may not be, depends on the ID number of the trans.
ID tag bolted at the rear of the case, just in front of the extension housing. Originally on the right (passenger) side. But, many of these tags are missing today.
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You don't need to measure anything. What you need to do is find the trans' ID tag number and post it here.
Ford type 3.03 3 speed manual all syncro trans. The following parts are the same: 1963/83 F100; 1965/86 E100; 1966/77 Bronco; 1975/86 E/F150:
Gasket set; small parts kit (snap rings & washers); front & rear bearings, seals; 1st gear syncro brass blocker ring (1), 3 shoes; 2nd/3rd syncro brass blocker rings (2) and 3 shoes.
1973: There are two different cluster gears listed in the parts catalog. Other internal parts may be the same, may not be, depends on the ID number of the trans.
ID tag bolted at the rear of the case, just in front of the extension housing. Originally on the right (passenger) side. But, many of these tags are missing today.
Ford type 3.03 3 speed manual all syncro trans. The following parts are the same: 1963/83 F100; 1965/86 E100; 1966/77 Bronco; 1975/86 E/F150:
Gasket set; small parts kit (snap rings & washers); front & rear bearings, seals; 1st gear syncro brass blocker ring (1), 3 shoes; 2nd/3rd syncro brass blocker rings (2) and 3 shoes.
1973: There are two different cluster gears listed in the parts catalog. Other internal parts may be the same, may not be, depends on the ID number of the trans.
ID tag bolted at the rear of the case, just in front of the extension housing. Originally on the right (passenger) side. But, many of these tags are missing today.
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Out and on the motorcycle jack in the garage.
Numbers as follows.
On tag Bill spoke of exactly where he said it would be. LOL
RAB-L half step down 2
EEDD1523
Stamped on tailshaft housing
RF-C5TR
7A040-B
WT
on drivers side stamped on transmission chunk
ORION
C2803000
It is 9.25 inches long
the tailshaft housing is
7.5 inches long.
Numbers as follows.
On tag Bill spoke of exactly where he said it would be. LOL
RAB-L half step down 2
EEDD1523
Stamped on tailshaft housing
RF-C5TR
7A040-B
WT
on drivers side stamped on transmission chunk
ORION
C2803000
It is 9.25 inches long
the tailshaft housing is
7.5 inches long.
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This one is only 44 miles away, and only 70$ I am on good terms with Deb @ Causeys auto salvage here in town. (I worked as a service advisor for oddly enough the largest Midas in the world here in BG KY for several years)
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Ok I removed the top cover, and the input shaft cover. No chunks of metal, no obviously damaged gears, or bearings, or rings. Now in first or reverse it can not be turned by hand unless you pull on the input shaft, when it pulls out past where it is with the cover on, it will turn smoothly in either direction, and will turn opposite input shaft in reverse. Second and third both are smooth. I wish I had got to pay more attention to another guy named Bill that rebuilt the ones out of semi trucks for us. I was young, he was old, we would do brakes, clutches, bearings, pumps and such, remove the things for rebuild for him, and then get back to work doing something else. If I had watched more this would be easier to understand what is going on, and what is wrong so I could fix it.
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From: S.E. WI
There is not an easier trans to learn on than the one you have in your hands. OK, maybe a GM Saginaw you can pull off bearings by hand. But at least if you can get your hands on a snap ring pliers, bearing splitter and a long 5/32 allen wrench, you should take it apart for the heck of it. You will spend more than $70 in parts to rebuild it though.