When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks. Throttle linkage returns sharply to the idle adjust screw, so it must be a vacuum leak. Where can I find a diagram of all the vacuum lines? Is that cannister behind the left headlight a vacuum source?
Left side as in driver side? If so that is the vacuum reservoir for the speed control system. At least it is on the F-series trucks.
If the idle returns to normal by unplugging the IAC then one of two things is the cause. First is a stuck IAC, but you already replaced it. The second is a sensor telling the PCM to kick up the idle. I suggest you check for codes since the latter is happening
I'm not sure if your 302 is efi but i had a similar problem with my 90 460 efi I changed throttle position sensor and it fixed my problem it's like a 20$ part and I haven't had the problem since hopefully that'll help you
Thanks. My Shop manual shows how to remove and reinstall the TPS, but the adjustment procedure is found in the Engine/Emission diagnosis manual. Is adjustment difficult? Should I replace the TPS before trying to find any vacuum leaks? My check engine light does not come on so I'm guessing now the vacuum may be OK as nothing seems to be wrong except for the neutral idling problem.
Let's re-cap this situation. You already replaced the IAC without testing anything ($$). So now you want to do it again with a TPS ($$$)? Invest in a cheap meter then test the components you already have. Many times the aftermarket "equivalents" introduce new problems.
In the event you do need to replace the TPS there is no need for adjustment. The old wive's tale of adjusting it to 0.97-0.99 VDC at closed throttle is just that...a fairy tale. If the closed throttle value is in the 0.6 to 1.0 VDC range leave it alone.
In Post#16 I stated if the idle returns to normal with the IAC unplugged then you have an electronic issue, not vacuum. That was assuming you did replace the IAC already.
OK will do. My barn is like an oven so it may take a day or two. First I will test idle with idle air actuator disconnected. I could take off the new valve and return it, but I figure after 24 years the old one might be ready to fail anyway.
Do I merely take the TPS connector off and measure the voltage with the ignition switch on or does the engine have to be running?
OK I got back at it for a few minutes. I unplugged the IAC and now the only way I can keep it running in idle is to give it a bit of gas. So I guess that means I don't have a vacuum issue.
The TPS is behind a bunch of hoses, but I can see it has three different color wires (red, green, and black?) going into the connector. So now should I grind the probes on my voltmeter to needle-sharp so I can penetrate the insulation to measure the voltage while the TPS is plugged in? Which color wires do I probe across to get the 0.6-1.0 that rla5000 says is normal?
Across black and green= 1.58v
Acrosss black and orange= 0.40v
Only light besides Check Engine that comes on just before starter engages is Brake.
No way the signal output can be greater than the reference signal (VREF). Recheck your readings. Please take a look at the plug diagrams I listed at OldFuelInjection.com.
OK I will try again after I hook up to O'reilly's machine tomorrow.
I sharpened the probes on my voltmeter so I could penetrate the insulation on the three wires on the TPS just behind the plug. Is there a better way? You said the TPS must be connected no? I'll go back and look at the plug diagrams. According the the chart, 1.58 volt signal should give me >2K RPM or am I reading it wrong?
I took a picture of that diode that Lead Head wanted to see, but could not contact him.