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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

A/C PROBLEM, ANY A/C EXPERTS IN HERE?

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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 08:59 PM
  #16  
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And also don't be afraid to run the vacuum pump on it for an hour or more to get the moisture out of it, and make sure to have both high and low sides open while evacuating. When adding oil back into it, pull the oil in both side using the vacuum you pulled on the system, then close the high sidefire the truck up and start adding refrigerant. By pulling the oil in both sides it provides better startup lubrication, it maybe a good idea to turn the compressor by hand a bit while adding the oil.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 09:38 PM
  #17  
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Well, if the condensor needs to be replaced I am getting too much money into this thing. Geez.

So. If I go get a new oriface tube and accumulator, clean out the evaporator core, hoses and condensor again with denatured alcohol, pull a vacuum and charge it it should work right?

How many ounces of oil does it need? How many ounces of freon should it take? I need to add up the costs of taking it somewhere vs trying it myself again.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 07:55 AM
  #18  
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You said you were going to take it somewhere to get it worked on, so I though money was no object. Apparently you haven't priced automotive A/C work lately(or any automotive work lately) Hourly rate is very high, and they add a lot of money to any parts they sell you.

I bought a brand new serpentine belt for a car I had a couple of years ago, and paid $30 for it at the local parts store. I was on the road during a trip, had a failure and it ruined this belt I had just bought. I had to get a garage to fix the problem on the road, and they had a guy deliver the same exact belt I had bought, and I looked on the receipt and they charged me $60 for the same belt.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 09:41 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
You said you were going to take it somewhere to get it worked on, so I though money was no object. Apparently you haven't priced automotive A/C work lately(or any automotive work lately) Hourly rate is very high, and they add a lot of money to any parts they sell you.

I bought a brand new serpentine belt for a car I had a couple of years ago, and paid $30 for it at the local parts store. I was on the road during a trip, had a failure and it ruined this belt I had just bought. I had to get a garage to fix the problem on the road, and they had a guy deliver the same exact belt I had bought, and I looked on the receipt and they charged me $60 for the same belt.
No, I hadn't priced the work yet, but i figured for a flush and charge it wouldn
t be more than 2-3 hours work for a professional shop....maybe I should just go get a new condenser, accumulator and oriface and do it all myself again. Damn, this is getting to be a real pain...

I always do my own work. I usually pay for rebuilt items but never have I ever paid someone to actually install a part. Ive had tires done and balanced and alignments but as far as everything else goes I have always done it myself.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 10:05 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by RAY1986F150
I always do my own work. I usually pay for rebuilt items but never have I ever paid someone to actually install a part. Ive had tires done and balanced and alignments but as far as everything else goes I have always done it myself.
I am somewhat the same way, but not always. I have come to learn that it is sometimes best to pay somebody who is a professional, knows what they're doing and who does it well, this generally applies when I don't know anything about a particular subsystem needing work.

For example, engine building, transmission building, ring & pinion & spider gear adjustments in axles, nor do I know anything about air conditioning. There is absolutely nothing wrong with paying somebody for their knowledge and years of experience.

It is for reasons like this I won't finish & drywall my basement; if I try, it will surely come out looking like it was done by an amateur.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 10:39 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
I am somewhat the same way, but not always. I have come to learn that it is sometimes best to pay somebody who is a professional, knows what they're doing and who does it well, this generally applies when I don't know anything about a particular subsystem needing work.

For example, engine building, transmission building, ring & pinion & spider gear adjustments in axles, nor do I know anything about air conditioning. There is absolutely nothing wrong with paying somebody for their knowledge and years of experience.

It is for reasons like this I won't finish & drywall my basement; if I try, it will surely come out looking like it was done by an amateur.

I feel ya bro. My whole life my father taught me "If that uy can do it, so can you." Well, for the most part that is true. However, you are right that sometimes its better to let someone else do it. I don't rebuild trannys, or engines. I do however take them out, put them back in, hook them up and all that good stuff. I have rebuilt a couple rear axles. I have also had some success with a/c stuff. However, i have never had an a/c system that was contaminated like this one, so I am having issues this time.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 09:34 PM
  #22  
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Just when I was about to give up, I discovered something. The evaporator core was bothering me, so I decided to take it out and have a look.

HOLY EVAPORATOR CORE BATMAN!!






Obviously this thing had a leak. Also, its so plugged up this is what was probably causing my high pressure on the low side, low pressure on the high side scenario.

Now. Do you guys think I should replace the condenser also? I would hate to contaminate a perfectly good system with one bad component. Are you sure i cannot get it properly cleaned out?

Also, I think I am going with the auto adjusting orifice tube, any experience with those? Are they worth the extra $20-$30?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 09:57 PM
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I changed my a\c to r134a about ten years ago and every thing still works blows cold air at about 36 to 38 deg all the time. I learned this fro;m a friend who does a\c. So this will take a minute or two. but since you have messed with the system already I would need to get my book on the old system in about a week. here's what I did first pull out the old freon pull the compressor turn it upside down and measrue the oil that came out then use brake kleen brand brake fluid only fill the compressor full and then turn slowly drain break fluid set aside fill condensor with about 1/2 can of brake fluid and let evaporate also do the same with the condenser. pull all hoses flush out with brake fluid replace orifice dryer accumalater . brake kleen brand brake cleaner eats oil leaves no residue pull vacuum after reassembling all parts with new o-ring leavout oriface for now after pulling vacuum for 4 hours open system install oil in condenser evaporater put oil in condenser and turn slowly to allow oil to lubricate parts install new orifice and pulll vacum for 10 minutes add r134a add about 50psi than is required to compensate for smaller system I have not had a problem with my a\c since and it still works like a meat locker
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 10:16 PM
  #24  
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Ray - If you can get your head around what BigBlue said then maybe you can do that. I can't get my head around it - too much text w/o sentences or paragraphs to comprehend on this phone.

Anyway, your text said you are going to price having someone fix it, and I think that is a good plan. You may find that it isn't that expensive or maybe it will be. But at least you can make an informed decision since you can ask him to quote both parts and labor and compare that with what you can buy the parts for.

As you know, I'm no A/C expert. When all the pieces are good I can make them work, but I don't have the experience to be able to diagnose problems dry far beyond a low charge. So, I won't be much help but am willing to try. However, I won't be home for a week and even then won't be available for another week after that. You will probably want to get some relief from the heat sooner than that. Good luck!
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 10:47 PM
  #25  
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Big Blue, thanks for the help, but I have to agree with Gary, I cannot understand exactly what you are saying. And I don't believe brake fluid in the a/c system makes any sense.

Anyways, here is the plan. Tomorrow I decided to take the day off to have the carpet installers do their job in the house. Then I am going to work on the truck.

So, the compressor is brand spanking new. I have cleaned the hoses thoroughly. Tomorrow I will go purchase a new evaporator, accumulator, condenser and auto adjusting orifice tube. So the whole system will be new other than the hoses. I will also pick up oil and freon.

I know I am supposed to put oil in the accumulator, but how many ounces? Also, I plan to drain the new compressor and fill it back up with the proper amount of oil, does anyone know how many ounces I should put into the compressor? Thanks
 
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 08:49 PM
  #26  
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Didn't get everything done tonight, but I did get a new condenser installed. I got it from autozone and boy it looked good. It fit like a heffer in a rabbit hole though. I had to get out the die grinder and remover some meterial around my radiator core support to prevent the support from rubbing the tubes. I then had to shim the bottom two bracket out about 1/2". It was a pain.

Anyways, I got that done. I picked up a new auto adjusting orifice tube, and an accumulator. I had to order the evaporator core. As soon as I get that I will charge her up. Hopefully all will go well this time.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 04:34 AM
  #27  
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I'm doing the same job right now on my truck. Replacing everything and switching to 134a. Funny - my new condensor was also about 1/2 inch too short and I had to make some new lower mounting brackets.

The factory R12 system holds 3.5lbs (56oz) of refridgerent. The charge for 134a is supposed to be about 80% of the R12 charge, so that's 45oz (almost four 12oz cans). Let me know how much 134a you actually use to get 40-50 on low side (assuming ambient temps in the mid-90s).

Also the oil in the system (for R12) is 10oz. The new compressors come with a "full charge of oil" according to Parts guy which is 7oz. So what is the correct amount of oil 10 or 7?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 06:26 AM
  #28  
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I'm reading all this 'cause I have to convert Dad's truck - once I get it running. So, I'm following closely. Keep updating us, guys.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 10:40 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CountryBumkin
I'm doing the same job right now on my truck. Replacing everything and switching to 134a. Funny - my new condensor was also about 1/2 inch too short and I had to make some new lower mounting brackets.

The factory R12 system holds 3.5lbs (56oz) of refridgerent. The charge for 134a is supposed to be about 80% of the R12 charge, so that's 45oz (almost four 12oz cans). Let me know how much 134a you actually use to get 40-50 on low side (assuming ambient temps in the mid-90s).

Also the oil in the system (for R12) is 10oz. The new compressors come with a "full charge of oil" according to Parts guy which is 7oz. So what is the correct amount of oil 10 or 7?
Where did you get your 10oz number? If that is in a manual or something I would just use the 7oz from the new compressor, and add 1 oz to accumulator, 1 oz to evaporator, and 1 oz to condenser. That will equal 10 oz total. My evaporator core wont be in until tomorrow. So it will be tomorrow evening before I can report much back. I will purchase 4 cans of 134, and report back how much I use to get it to 40-50 psi low side.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
I'm reading all this 'cause I have to convert Dad's truck - once I get it running. So, I'm following closely. Keep updating us, guys.
Once you start on your dads truck give me a hollar and we can do it together.
 
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