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So my poor '65 F250 has had this camper on it since 1972. Its full of problems that have had multiple bandaids, so its ready for it to go. I dont think its going to be too difficult to get it all disconnected, but actually getting it off might be hard. Has anyone done this before or done something similar?
The other problem is that the fuel tanks are integrated within the camper, I was bouncing around a few ideas, maybe take a sawzall to it and start taking it off piece by piece, but that could cost me at the dump. I was thinking about tying it to a tree and driving away lol then I decided to put it on craigslist for free and have had a huge response of people that want it. This now leaves me wondering how to remove it..... while keeping it intact for those who want it...
Let the folks who want it know that they will need to be involved with removing it. Work as a team. They want it intact (or repairable), you want the truck intact (or repairable). As long as you let them them know what they are getting into, you should find someone willing to help you work on it. There will probably be many who don't want to deal with it. Odds are that they should have or should bring a jack set to remove the camper.
That type of camper prolly was bolted to the frame...jack it up and drive away...post the door tag info...I be that truck rolled off as a cab and chassis...to a coach builder who did the camper...those are a rare find...Ive seen lots of those on bumpsides(67-72) but never on the earlier trucks...
As for goodies you may need...PM or email me with whatever you have questions about...
wheelbase: 129...wheelbase in inches..typically a long bed pick up
Color: C= Special White or Pure White..its not as common as M which is Wimbledon White...My truck is a tutone white...oddball to say the least..
Model: F250= F series 2WD 3/4 ton truck
Body: B81= B= medium Blue crush Vinyl & Medium Blue Cody Pattern Woven
Plastic.
81=81B= Custom Cab truck...it has the sweep speedometer
Trans: A= Ford M/D 3 speed manual
Axle: 25= 4.56 ratio rear differential, non locking
GVW: 7500= Trucks max weight loaded with full fuel load, persons and cargo
DSO:11= Boston, where the original selling dealer ordered the truck from.
This was a regular production truck bought off the lot, not a
special order.
Based on the above, I would guess its VIN would most likely read similar to F25D(352) or B(300) or J(240)E(Mahwah, NJ assy plant, followed by the 6 digit sequential number which tells the build date...F25*E123456
If it is a true self enclosed camper then corner jacks are the way to go. Rent a set from the local rental outlet or may be able to talk a local RV shop to swap with the new owner and have the new owner pay. If it is a bolt on topper two 8 foot 2x4's and some rope under a strong oak tree (insert local strong tree species here) and drive out from under it. I know both work from experience. I had both. An enclosed camper fully loaded with spit the race and wheel bearings after a long work out....dont ask me how I know..
The other thing I thought about was just getting a plastic marine fuel tank as a temp job to get the truck out from the camper and get me around until I get a replacement. Beats trying to dig the fuel tanks out of the camper. Anyone ever hooked up a tank like that?
Haha, I'm seing the glass half full, Its a truck with this damn thing strapped to it, I want to try and give it a new life, out side of campgrounds and sitting for long winters.
9' box? It has 4 stake pockets.... Never seen one on that vintage. Now I know why mine has a factory looking round hole on the left front. Fuel filler neck. BTW, that's a cool camper for the guy that wants that type.