When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I finally just got my truck out of the shop. It had to get another engine (one from an 88 with 86,000 miles from a reputable JY) Well the mechanic had it for over a month and i got it back a couple days ago.
Now under a load i hear this rattling sound but its only when I give it throttle and under load, usually going up hill. Im thinking it might be a push rod going bad.
Just a little bit ago when it was idling, I was listening to it and I could hear a faint ticking but I havent put a stethoscope to it yet but I will soon.
If a push rod was going bad, wouldnt it always be noticable? or could it come and go like this is doing?
also how bad would it be to drive temporarily with a bent push rod? If Im on the freeway can I drive it long enough to get it off the highway to a gas station, rest area, etc? I took all the push rods and rocker arms off my parts engine just to keep with me so If I need to change them out Im not totally stranded, I also have my haynes manual and a torque wrench and more tools than a nascar pit crew.
Rattling under load is detonation so I'd say the timing is too far advanced, get a timing light and check it but remember to disconnect the spout plug to disable computer advance. If you had a bent pushrod the motor would make a loud clacking noise all the time not just under load.
its not very loud when it happens but I would expect it to be perfect when I get it out of the shop, the mechanic is a very close family friend and he cut me a HUGE break on the labor, he barely charged me anything, any one else it wouldve been 3 times as much at least.
Ill try checking the timing in the next couple days. the distributor is spun farther forward (more clockwise) than how my original engine was, so that could be it. but when I tried advancing the timing when I had my old engine, if I wouldve moved it that far forward a lot of $#!t would have been messing up.
I really dont wanna take it back down to him because Im not a very high priority client to him and my old beat up ford truck aint exactly his favorite thing to work on so it takes him forever to get around to it and get it done.
Timing is pretty easy to do and you could even just nudge the distributor back counterclockwise a hair literally.. it does't take much movement to back out a degree or two and that may be enough to stop detonation. Of course it's better to know exactly what the timing is set to but you won't harm anything making an adjustment like this without a timing light.
Timing is pretty easy to do and you could even just nudge the distributor back counterclockwise a hair literally.. it does't take much movement to back out a degree or two and that may be enough to stop detonation. Of course it's better to know exactly what the timing is set to but you won't harm anything making an adjustment like this without a timing light.
Ive done the whole timing bump thing before, figures i just returned my timing light a month ago because I figured I didnt need it...
well pretty sure the truck was a quart low, so I put some lucas oil stabilizer in it, ran seafoam through the gas and I havent heard the noise come back. Havent had it under load like it was when I heard the noise though.
My question now is, when I was timing it (I did pull the spout plug) without the plug in I set it to 10 degrees but everytime I plugged it back in, it jumped to about 14 degrees, why would it do this?
When you plug the spout connector in the timing is going to change, that is the ignition modual doing its job.Thta is why you have to remove the SpOut plug to set timing
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.