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Guy's
Just a quick question. When I switch the ignition off on my F Truck, you can hear turbo bearings still running for a good 5 sec afterwoods echoing in the exhaust. Is this normal or not. Im interested to know before I have it off, just in case I need to have it fixed along with the other stuff I am doing. Im a bit reluctuant to take it to anybody up here, as I seem to struggle for good mechanics that know anything about them, or want to know. Thoughts!!
Guy's
Just a quick question. When I switch the ignition off on my F Truck, you can hear turbo bearings still running for a good 5 sec afterwoods echoing in the exhaust. Is this normal or not. Im interested to know before I have it off, just in case I need to have it fixed along with the other stuff I am doing. Im a bit reluctuant to take it to anybody up here, as I seem to struggle for good mechanics that know anything about them, or want to know. Thoughts!!
is it a stoke turbo ???. the reason i ask is that I cant remember hearing my stock turbo wind down but you can certainly hear a 38R wind down
The truck has a Garrett Powermax GTP38R Intake Tube, But I am assuming that that is all it has. How can you tell? It definately sounds like ball bearings slowing down once the ignition is switched off. It has always sounded like that, so I don't know any different. A mate of mine raised the point when he was over on the weekend, and it got me thinking. I think I need to hear another F Truck turn off and see if it is the same. Would be handy to know if it has a different turbo on it.
The 38R has a larger intake than stock. So Im assuming if the intake tube doesnt taper down its a 38R . Then the spinning down noise is normal.
looks like ya gotta sleeper there m8
Stoked if that is the case. Only wondering now if the hi flow outlet and pedestal delete will fit that I have received from Clay. Hope so. I guess I will find out soon when I remove the Turbo, bellow pipes, intake manifold and plenums, and replace with the new equipment.
The Hi flow outlet and EBPV delete pedestal will fit the 38R no problem.
Sounds like you got $1500 worth of upgraded turbo when you bought the truck! The spinning down noise is because the 38R has ball race bearings on the turbo shaft rather than the stock bushings.
So worry if you don't hear them winding down when you switch off now. And if you've thrashed the truck immediately prior to stopping, make sure you idle it for a couple of minutes to give the bearings a chance to cool down via the oil circulating through before switching off.
You won't need the Wicked Wheel - it would be a down grade on your current turbo!
No worries Simon. Finally this truck is giving something back after costing me plenty, as they do. Handy info to know off both you and Brian. It should go quiet well when I finish all the mods I have ordered from Clay. Nothing Like Brian's, but he is just out of control. I have been watching his engine build, along with everybody else. The bloke should be given a medal for doing it. Braver that me anyway.
It took me a while to figure out why Brian was getting the JW tranny while the trans in his truck was still good. Now that I've seen his new 'power plant' coming together it all makes sense!
Wallsy, your truck is going to go pretty well just putting the new RR IC boots on. The 38R would have been inflating your stock IC boots like party balloons! All that balloon inflation power is going to be turned into BOOST!
If you haven't already got gauges, start saving for Exhaust Gas Temp (EGT), Boost, and Trans oil temp. With the upgraded turbo they're the 3 things you need to keep an eye on if you're working the truck hard. There's plenty of threads on the US forum about fitting. I know that it's not too hard cause I've done it. I think my best tip would be to go for a 60psi or equivalent (e.g. 4 bar) boost gauge as the 38R's are easily capable of achieving boost figures in the 40's. Stock turbo boost is limited to 22 but can achieve close to 30 with a chip/turner and decent IC boots.
The truck came fitted with a banks transmission temp guage, fitted where you guys have your 4x4 switch placed in the Aussie trucks. I will have to locate the others else were, but I do agree, they are a must.
I ended up getting economy priced Racetech stepper motor gauges off eBay. Boost is a simple plug and play install. EGT required carefully drilling of a hole in the thick bit of the LH exhaust manifold, stepping up the drill bit sizes, then tapping a 1/4" NPT thread for the EGT 'pyro' probe.
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