Sway Bar Question
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 298
Likes: 4
From: Highland CA
Thanks HIO for the reply I meant $45 for everything now back tho the notch the radius arm that it came of stick out pass the I beam mi truck doesn't so that means the bracket has no stability because I have no where to make the notch plus it looks like the opening on the C bracket is to wide to fit in the I beam of my truck it looks to me like I would have to put some flat washers in between the C bracket so that wen I tighten it it wont close up and buckle dose this make sense or probably I can not explain it to where it is understandable In other words the radius arm of my truck is not as tall as the one I took it of does this make sense.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Ah, $45 is a good deal. Beats the hell outta $242.
Can ya do me a favor? Please use punctuation (periods). It's hard to parse your sentences. Thanks.
Back to the topic... I think I understand what you're describing.... then you'll have to get radius arms with the notch. Sway bar equipped I-beams and C-brackets sometimes use a thick flat washer btwn the lower flange of the C-bracket and the lower flange of the radius arm.
Can ya do me a favor? Please use punctuation (periods). It's hard to parse your sentences. Thanks.
Back to the topic... I think I understand what you're describing.... then you'll have to get radius arms with the notch. Sway bar equipped I-beams and C-brackets sometimes use a thick flat washer btwn the lower flange of the C-bracket and the lower flange of the radius arm.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 298
Likes: 4
From: Highland CA
Sorry for the grammar, I will try my best wen I type.
Like you said back to the topic,
My other option is the rs a van that has what looks like the other bar you have in the pictures you posted earlier where the brackets clamp around the I beam, but they are on a van.
The other thing is it has a strap in the front of the chassis to create a bridge and this is where the bar shackles are mounted, I guess because the bar is not wide enough to be mounted to the chassis ends.
I think this one would work better for my application, guess I just have to take a tape measure and measure everything and go from there thank for you patience and all the input.
Like you said back to the topic,
My other option is the rs a van that has what looks like the other bar you have in the pictures you posted earlier where the brackets clamp around the I beam, but they are on a van.
The other thing is it has a strap in the front of the chassis to create a bridge and this is where the bar shackles are mounted, I guess because the bar is not wide enough to be mounted to the chassis ends.
I think this one would work better for my application, guess I just have to take a tape measure and measure everything and go from there thank for you patience and all the input.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Thanks for the punctuation! 
I did a ton of research and measuring before I figured out what worked. I recall seeing that bridge setup and it may work. However and if I recall correctly, Econolines have wider frames - at least the ones I looked at. Make sure you measure your frame width before heading to the yard.
You're welcome... Post up a pic when ya get'er installed.
I did a ton of research and measuring before I figured out what worked. I recall seeing that bridge setup and it may work. However and if I recall correctly, Econolines have wider frames - at least the ones I looked at. Make sure you measure your frame width before heading to the yard.
You're welcome... Post up a pic when ya get'er installed.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 298
Likes: 4
From: Highland CA
Hey guys back from the J/Y, here are some pics of the sway bar I found. also some pics of fabrication, to make the clamp brackets stronger, I had some flat stock 2"wide x 1/2" thick
that I'll be using for the brackets.
I will be cleaning all parts for paint before install.
I will post more pics when its installed.
that I'll be using for the brackets.
I will be cleaning all parts for paint before install.
I will post more pics when its installed.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Sweeeet!
Or weld stiffeners (to make an upside down "U") to those brackets. It would also serve as a skid to protect the nut and threaded ends.
I'm gonna slap on a Hotchkis Sport Suspension decal to make observers wonder.
EDIT: Ah... I seen ya been busy today.
Or weld stiffeners (to make an upside down "U") to those brackets. It would also serve as a skid to protect the nut and threaded ends.
I'm gonna slap on a Hotchkis Sport Suspension decal to make observers wonder.
EDIT: Ah... I seen ya been busy today.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 298
Likes: 4
From: Highland CA
HIO this is the one from the van, I measured the chassis from the van and it was about 39" inches from outside to outside,that's why it had the bridge because the bar is not wide enough to mount on the chassis.
My truck is 34"inches so I don't need the bridge, the bar is wide enough to mount on mine.
Can you explain about the stiffeners,or are you referring to just put the "U" bolt from the bottom up so the plate is at the top of I beam, I can not picture what you are suggesting thanks.
My truck is 34"inches so I don't need the bridge, the bar is wide enough to mount on mine.
Can you explain about the stiffeners,or are you referring to just put the "U" bolt from the bottom up so the plate is at the top of I beam, I can not picture what you are suggesting thanks.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
Lemme clarify....I suggest welding sideplates on the long sides to the plates ya made for extra stiffness. Even though it's 1/2-inch thick, one of the plates I have was slightly bent. Plus, the sideplates can act as skids to protect the threads (which are pointing down).
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Here's a pic of what I mean using a wood scrap. After much thought, 1/2-inch thick bar seems to have enough mass to avoid bending. I looked at the bracket pictured below and it's only 1/4-inch thick.
Welder?.. Teach yourself! I have a Miller 140 for small projects and am looking to step up to a Miller 211 in the near future.
Welder?.. Teach yourself! I have a Miller 140 for small projects and am looking to step up to a Miller 211 in the near future.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 298
Likes: 4
From: Highland CA
I agree with you 1/2" should be ok, the ones that I'm replacing are 3/8" and they are pretty flat so 1/2" should be fine, but thanks for the picture, sorry I put you to work because of my lack of imagination.
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