Easy PM that gets overlooked!
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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Easy PM that gets overlooked!
I was headed home yesterday and my truck revved up about 2-300 rpms between 1st and 2nd gear and then kicked into gear hard. I pulled over in a service station and looked under the truck to find that it was covered in trans fluid. One of the rubber hoses coming from the trans to the filter canister had been rubbing up against the steering dampner and rubbed a hole in it. I replaced it (which is trying on a mans patience, those two lines were not meant to be replaced) today along with new filter and new fluid. While i was down there i found one other hose and 3 wire bundles that were rubbing up against something, one of which had actually started to wear the outside of cast aluminum transmission filter housing. Moral of my story it takes about 15 minute when your underneath there changing you oil to glance over the conglomeration of wires and hoses directly underneath your rackety old powerhouse. Could save you about 300 bucks worth of fluid, filters and hoses.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
May I add two more common areas for "rub-through" wear? One, is the lower rad hose to the top corner of the steering box. I believe the replacement rad hose from Ford has a section of convolute that covers that area where it sits very close to that corner. Another, is the heater hose return tube to the engine front cover. Where that hose curves around the rear lower corner of the FICM is a very common area to rub through and eventually leak coolant, sometimes even being mistaken for coolant venting from the degas bottle by those who are paranoid, until they actually open the hood. Any time I'm ever into an engine that far for whatever reason, I will usually cut a section of extra wiring convolute I have laying around to cover that section of hose in order to save the owner the grief of having to deal with that hose leaking, later on down the road because that hose is not easy to change, since it is all one piece that goes around the firewall.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 873
May I add two more common areas for "rub-through" wear? One, is the lower rad hose to the top corner of the steering box. I believe the replacement rad hose from Ford has a section of convolute that covers that area where it sits very close to that corner. Another, is the heater hose return tube to the engine front cover. Where that hose curves around the rear lower corner of the FICM is a very common area to rub through and eventually leak coolant, sometimes even being mistaken for coolant venting from the degas bottle by those who are paranoid, until they actually open the hood. Any time I'm ever into an engine that far for whatever reason, I will usually cut a section of extra wiring convolute I have laying around to cover that section of hose in order to save the owner the grief of having to deal with that hose leaking, later on down the road because that hose is not easy to change, since it is all one piece that goes around the firewall.
Good advice for sure.
I to can attest of the infamous lower radiator hose chafing leak. I bought a new one and for some reason it fit nicer and nowhere near the gearbox, one thing is for sure, those spring clamps that ford "glues" on their hoses are not dependable, they suck actually. I installed the new hose, made sure the mounting surface was clean of any old hose/debris, sprung it loose and the next week the POS clamp leaked. Since it was in a tough spot and I did not want to ruin the hose I put in a wormdrive clamp just above it, leak gone.
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,192
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From: Oakville, Ontario
Here's one that I just finished today.
At least once a year remove your wheels and the remove your brake callipers and grease those sliding pins. Today way my annual brake calliper greasing day and fond one of my slider seized. While trying to remove it with a torch and penetrating oil it snapped. Now what. Thought about drilling it out. First a trip to the dealer and found that I would have to wait till tomorrow if I order by 11:00 tomorrow morning. Cost $159.00, just for the calliper holder plus the cost of slider pins and boots. Then went to Parts Source and they only sold them as a complete assembly. The full calliper, Piston, Pins, Boots, and pad retainers. Cost $79.00 with my casting return. Not bad.
But remember grease the slider pins. It could have been a lot more expensive then that.
At least once a year remove your wheels and the remove your brake callipers and grease those sliding pins. Today way my annual brake calliper greasing day and fond one of my slider seized. While trying to remove it with a torch and penetrating oil it snapped. Now what. Thought about drilling it out. First a trip to the dealer and found that I would have to wait till tomorrow if I order by 11:00 tomorrow morning. Cost $159.00, just for the calliper holder plus the cost of slider pins and boots. Then went to Parts Source and they only sold them as a complete assembly. The full calliper, Piston, Pins, Boots, and pad retainers. Cost $79.00 with my casting return. Not bad.
But remember grease the slider pins. It could have been a lot more expensive then that.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 55
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I heated one to remove it, it hissed at me then shot out like a bullet, launching the bracket ito the light above my vise. After I counted fingers and toes I laughed like a little school girl. I agree though, we have a fleet of 18 superduties and once a year they each get a bumper to bumper inspection and the caliper greasing (we use di-electric) is a must.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,202
Likes: 1
From: Illinois
Here's one that I just finished today.
At least once a year remove your wheels and the remove your brake callipers and grease those sliding pins. Today way my annual brake calliper greasing day and fond one of my slider seized. While trying to remove it with a torch and penetrating oil it snapped. Now what. Thought about drilling it out. First a trip to the dealer and found that I would have to wait till tomorrow if I order by 11:00 tomorrow morning. Cost $159.00, just for the calliper holder plus the cost of slider pins and boots. Then went to Parts Source and they only sold them as a complete assembly. The full calliper, Piston, Pins, Boots, and pad retainers. Cost $79.00 with my casting return. Not bad.
But remember grease the slider pins. It could have been a lot more expensive then that.
At least once a year remove your wheels and the remove your brake callipers and grease those sliding pins. Today way my annual brake calliper greasing day and fond one of my slider seized. While trying to remove it with a torch and penetrating oil it snapped. Now what. Thought about drilling it out. First a trip to the dealer and found that I would have to wait till tomorrow if I order by 11:00 tomorrow morning. Cost $159.00, just for the calliper holder plus the cost of slider pins and boots. Then went to Parts Source and they only sold them as a complete assembly. The full calliper, Piston, Pins, Boots, and pad retainers. Cost $79.00 with my casting return. Not bad.
But remember grease the slider pins. It could have been a lot more expensive then that.
I used to do this every 6 months because of snowplowing. I still cringe at what I see everytime I crawl under my truck
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