I have a couple questions about the 1986 F150 1/2 ton 2wd pickup. The truck has the 300 6 cylinder, automatic transmission. There is one for sale locally. What sort of things should I be watchful for while looking this truck over. It has low mileage.
Another question, I don't believe this truck has AC. Is this something that can be added, or is this realistic with only 115 hp 6 cylinder? Is there aftermarket AC units for these trucks or would I need to try and find a donar truck with the needed stuff?

thanks John

 

To convert your truck to use A/C, you would need a donor truck. You'll need to completely change the location of the heater box, need all the duct work, need the plumbing, convert the A/C to use R134A, need all of the A/C components and brackets from under the hood, the dash which has the A/C vents built into it, and the heater controls and vacuum connector as well.

Make sure the truck's emissions systems haven't been butchered up. A 1986 300 will be a computer controlled Carter YFA carburetor, and the ignition module for the DSIII setup sits underneath the dash behind the ashtray. All of the emissions and ignition components should be in their original place and hooked up if you want the truck to run right.

 

Thanks 1983F150, As far as I know this truck has been unmolested. The original owner bought the truck new and only accumulated 21,600 miles on it. The guy i talked to said it runs great, he was having it detailed, so I din't get a chance to see it this morning. I'm going back out tomorrow morning. He said it had a couple little spots just starting on the body (my guess would be over the rear wheel openings).
What would a truck like this be worth even to make an offer?1986, 6 cylinder, auto, standard cab, 2wd, 8' bed.

Thanks John

 

These trucks aren't worth much monetarily, but are outstanding vehicles.

For one of these (82 to 86 models) I wouldn't give but 6000 maximum if it was coated in cosmoline and never cranked.

I doubt the truck has 21K miles, it'll probably be 121K, but I can't say as I never owned it. If he's the original owner, and the truck is immaculate, I'd think he'd be telling the truth.

I'd start out at 2500 or 2750 and see what he says. His price, based on mileage, will probably be higher. Best bet is to ask him what he wants for it. Max I'd pay would be 4000 - 4500.

The 300, with whichever automatic may be behind it (probably either a C6 or an automatic overdrive) will be a great truck. Tuned up and driving real easy like, you could get past 20 mpg out of that truck. It'll pull anything you'll ever need to pull too (within 1/2 ton limitations. Past those limitations, it'd need bigger brakes, but to get things moving that stout 6 wouldn't care).

Good luck, and if you buy it, post some pitcher's!

 

Okay thanks, we'll see what happens. Wasn't sure if a 2wd pickup was worth that much or not. I doubt I'll go 4000 for it though.

 

I recommend that people buy as much truck as they can possibly afford. By that I don't mean just pay extra for nothing, but get as good of a running, currently-being-used truck as is affordable. It is much less expensive that way than fixing it up as there are always more problems than expected. And even if you do the work yourself, as I have been doing, you'll have more in a fixer-upper than what you could have bought a similar truck for, and you won't have had the frustrations associated with problem on top of problem.

As an example, I had over $3k in a truck I bought for $700 and only got $2300 for it. And, other than machine shop work on the engine, which I got pretty inexpensively from a friend, I did all the work myself.

 

Hi Gary,

I wonder on a truck like this that has only accumulated 21,600 miles, whether there might be bugs that pop up or not. That only figures to roughly 1000 or less miles a year.
John

 

If it isn't being driven frequently there may be bugs. That's why I said "currently-being-used". The gas may have been in the tank for a long time, but if it was driven to be detailed it must be good enough. But, if it was driven to be detailed then most, if not all, things work.

Were I to be buying another truck I would look for one-owner cream puffs. Trucks that were babied, taken care of, had their coolant and brake fluid changed frequently, not to mention the engine oil. Not the $225, $300, $500, and $700 ones I've purchased - all of which have taken way more fixing than anticipated. Waaaaay more.

 

I agree with what Gary says.

You can either buy a 500 or 700 dollar truck that needs a lot of money and time to fix, or you could spend 2000 or so dollars on a truck that might need next to nothing fixed and save potentially hundreds or a thousands of dollars. The upside would be that you could drive the 2000 dollar truck right away instead of having to wait like in most cases.

 

Hi Gary,
Looked the truck over this morning. Nice interior, detailed out real nice. Dash pad has no cracks, floor mat looks like new, vinyl seat are clean and rip free. Blue interior. Black floor mat. Very basic model, AM radio, no AC. Doors shut real nice.
Outside could use some attention. Has chips and scratches on the body, mostly the doors and bed sides. Previous owner looked to have touched them up with a brush and some white paint.
Outside is cream color, with blue pinstripe down side. Steel wheels/ hubcaps. Wheels could use a repaint, they are starting to get rust spots on them. Bed is pretty straight from what I can see, has an over the rail bedliner in it. The glue on wheel opening trim is off the driver's side rear wheel opening. (piece is in the bed). The other side is loose. Front fender moldings seem to be okay. One thing that needs attention is it has snaps along the bed for a tonnue cover and it is starting to rust around each of the buttons. I don't see an cover there for it.
I think I'll make an offer and see what happens....
John

 

Sounds good!

 

I have to disagree here. When I bought my 03 Ranger, it was perfect. Not a scratch on it, decent service history, clean interior, clean engine, no leaks, nothing. Only 42,000 miles on it.

After driving the truck for no more than two weeks, it developed a transmission shudder, the oil pan started to leak, the transmission output seal started to leak, the ball joint boots fell off, the belt tensioner started to squeal, and there were a few other less serious issues.

It doesn't matter how good a truck looks, how well it runs, how well it's been taken care of, what year it is, or how many miles it has. Buying anything mechanical is always a blind purchase because you were never there to see how well that vehicle was put together, how qualified previous mechanics were, and whether or not all of the maintenance was done correctly. Even a cream puff can turn into an absolute nightmare.

In my Ranger's case, it took one shoddy "mechanic" to completely ruin the truck's clean history, and now I'm stuck fighting multiple issues caused by one idiot's inability to properly service a vehicle.

 

See what two weeks of a snot-nosed teenager can do to a perfectly fine vehicle?

 

I babied her for the first three weeks thank you very much.

In all seriousness, leaving a bolt out of a valve body, breaking a connector because you can't figure out how to remove it, and losing the output shaft seal dust cover is just absolutely ridiculous. I wonder how many other vehicles that idiot has destroyed.

 

I know what you are saying Fordzilla, buying anything can be a pig in a poke. All you can do is look it over best you can, and make an offer and see where it all goes.
I bought a 1953 Chevy 1/2 ton, I guess I didn't look it over as well as I should have. After driving it for a short while, the rear tire on the passenger side blew out (excitement in a hurry), been worse if it was a front tire. Anyway popped of the hubcaps they had on it, and here the rear wheels were 5 bolt, the front 6 bolt... Here they put in a 1953 car rear end which is narrower and the inside of the tires were rubbing the bed. Cut the sidewall of the tire. Who thinks to pop off the hubcaps to check something like this?

John