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Need to Charge AC, how?

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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 01:01 PM
  #31  
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88dually
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How do i know where the low side valve is on an 88.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 01:17 PM
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The low side is the line coming from the condenser to the dryer. Passenger side
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 01:17 PM
  #33  
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it might be right on the compressor on an 88. ive seen a lot of car ac systems and they never seem to be in the same place from one model to the next.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 01:19 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by fordpride
The low side is the line coming from the condenser to the dryer. Passenger side
the lines running to or from the condenser are high side lines. one carries high pressure gas (to be condensed) the other line carries high pressure liquid (condensed refrigerant)
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 01:33 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 88dually
How do i know where the low side valve is on an 88.
just hit me... is this an r12 ac system? being an 88 it might be and i would inquire about as to if its ever been converted to 134a. the low side valve i think is right on the compressor. it might even have an H and an L cast into the head where the service valves thread in to it.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 01:52 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
i think i have a total of $400 in tools for AC repair.

i also have MACS section 609 certification so i can legally buy
R-12 and recycle R-134 freon.
R12, yeah if you can afford it or if the customer is willing to pay. The cost is rediculous.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 01:59 PM
  #37  
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1988 originally is R12. I converted my 87 to R134a without issue. The low side is where you will charge the system. It's located on the passenger side off the dryer. You want to change any leaky o-rings first then draw vacuum on the system for atleast 1/2 an hour to boil the moisture out.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 03:45 PM
  #38  
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tjc transport
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Originally Posted by 87crewdually
R12, yeah if you can afford it or if the customer is willing to pay. The cost is rediculous.

nope. i get it for around $14 per can.

anything older than 93 is still R-12. i don't convert.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 05:53 PM
  #39  
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Mine was already converted when i bought it. Compressor, dryer an orafice was changed.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 05:54 PM
  #40  
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I need that oil an r134a ?
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 06:16 PM
  #41  
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I am replacing both lines,as well as the dryer and orifice tube. Then I'll put on the vac pump and check for leaks. And I will be dropping some $$to fix, but a shop would kill me on parts markup and labor, an besides the spirit of this forum is diy, right? I have the fuel line disconnect tools, so getting the liquid line off looks to be the one sticky spot. And having AC in my rig would make it really njce! Thank you, C
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 09:10 AM
  #42  
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Liquid line is not cooperating. I sprayed wd40 in ther and I can get the disconnect tool in but the line wont budge- pissing me off slightly!-C
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 09:48 AM
  #43  
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It's a tough one to do.
Gotta wiggle and push and wiggle and push then it suddenly pops off.

The orifice tube is waaaaay down there. you'll need some thin needle nose pliers or have to make a pair like I did.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 10:00 AM
  #44  
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Spray the quick connect with brake cleaner and blow it out with air to get any dirt and grim out of it
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 10:45 AM
  #45  
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yeah, its just a spring up there.

The thing I noticed is that my big thick fuel line disconnects were actually a little to fat to push in there correctly.

I ended up getting it best I could and yanking the rest of the way.
 
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