Can't get front cover off 5.4L 99 (2V)
#1
Can't get front cover off 5.4L 99 (2V)
Attempting timing equipment fix after holes appeared in front cover (back story below). did my best to search the forum for similar problem.
PROBLEM:, can't get the front cover off. I have an 1/8" gap, or larger that runs from passenger valve cover area along top all the way to the lower driver side. The lower passenger side, from the valve cover to the oil pan won't budge.
I should mention, the lower, passenger side stud is still in place. Is this the locator stud that the manual refers to when installing the cover? Instead of being a one piece stud like the other similar bolts, this one had a one piece nut/washer which I removed. This shouldn't be holding the cover on since there aren't any threads in that hole.
There's not much room under there. should I try and wedge the blade from a plastic scraper/spackle knife. Crow bar against wood shims? Have 326K on engine. I'm trying to fix this to run a few more months and then sell.
thanks to anyone else who has encountered a "sticky" front cover.
-----------------------------------------------------------
original problem
Had a tickety tick noise and was pretty sure it wasn't anything vavle relate. Couldn't figure out and even had trouble nailing down with a stethoscope.
Started getting a lot of oil under the car to go along with the leaking steering gear. Suddenly was "using" 1 qt every 170mi? Engine compartment was "spray painted" with oil. Couldn't tell what the source was, even after cleaning up and running 10 minutes. Used dye to spot black hole (the only thing that wasn't glowing) in the front engine cover. Couldn't understand how something behind the timing cover could wack it hard enough to put a hole in it. Now that the front cover is exposed, I can see 3 holes, passenger side, top of cover near water pump. They appear to have been created by the timing chain rubbing from the inside.
PROBLEM:, can't get the front cover off. I have an 1/8" gap, or larger that runs from passenger valve cover area along top all the way to the lower driver side. The lower passenger side, from the valve cover to the oil pan won't budge.
I should mention, the lower, passenger side stud is still in place. Is this the locator stud that the manual refers to when installing the cover? Instead of being a one piece stud like the other similar bolts, this one had a one piece nut/washer which I removed. This shouldn't be holding the cover on since there aren't any threads in that hole.
There's not much room under there. should I try and wedge the blade from a plastic scraper/spackle knife. Crow bar against wood shims? Have 326K on engine. I'm trying to fix this to run a few more months and then sell.
thanks to anyone else who has encountered a "sticky" front cover.
-----------------------------------------------------------
original problem
Had a tickety tick noise and was pretty sure it wasn't anything vavle relate. Couldn't figure out and even had trouble nailing down with a stethoscope.
Started getting a lot of oil under the car to go along with the leaking steering gear. Suddenly was "using" 1 qt every 170mi? Engine compartment was "spray painted" with oil. Couldn't tell what the source was, even after cleaning up and running 10 minutes. Used dye to spot black hole (the only thing that wasn't glowing) in the front engine cover. Couldn't understand how something behind the timing cover could wack it hard enough to put a hole in it. Now that the front cover is exposed, I can see 3 holes, passenger side, top of cover near water pump. They appear to have been created by the timing chain rubbing from the inside.
#4
All bolts, according to the FM, are out, including the 4 to the oil pan. There is a little movement at the driver side oil pan/front cover jumction. PS is unmounted and that was quite the pain with all the extra plumbing for the rear heater running through there. I am still unsure if the lower passenger side bolt is the locator stud referred to in the manual. It appears not to be threaded to the front cover. Looks like I'll have to take the same nut off on an engine at the yard if I really want to be sure it's normal.
I thought it might take some heat to free it up since prting any harder will probably mess up the mating surfaces. Afraid I'll torch/melt something else in the process. I really hate to not do things right, but I'm gonna have to button it back up, then design/fab a patch for the holes out of plastic and metal and rivet it in place along with some RTV. I'm disappointed that I didn't get to complete the job. I got her to 326K and it'll have to do.
I thought it might take some heat to free it up since prting any harder will probably mess up the mating surfaces. Afraid I'll torch/melt something else in the process. I really hate to not do things right, but I'm gonna have to button it back up, then design/fab a patch for the holes out of plastic and metal and rivet it in place along with some RTV. I'm disappointed that I didn't get to complete the job. I got her to 326K and it'll have to do.
#5
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