Traveling at about 50 mph, the van jerked like hitting bump. Now there is no overdrive. When the shifter is moved from (D) to D, there is no difference in RPM, but when in what should be overdrive, there is a high pitched whining sound.
The van is a 93 AWD. I have a 96 AWD with a known good transmission and a nearly new transfer case. Can I put the transmission and transfer case from the 96 into the 93?

Thanks.

 

That Tranny won't work The 96 has a electronic shift..

 

Any idea of rebuild costs? What would be in a reasonable ballpark?

 

Talk to a local transmission shop. The basic trans stayed the same when it was 'electrified', but the valve body and control solenoids were swapped. The old had two{or more?}, one for converter lockup and one for .... ... overdrive? Been too long.
You may be able to swap the old valve body into the newer transmission. A shop could tell you. There were a lot of improvements made over time to beef up and increase longevity. Torrington bearings {almost like the thrust bearings on a shaft where it comes into the reduction gears} replaced a lot of bushings. Many parts were made of thicker stuff, and so on.
The price you get quoted will be totally dependent on your location. You can shop the web for ball park, but you have to add in shipping costs plus core return shipping.
I did a friends in a 90 and replaced the input shaft, the planetary in the OD, welded the 'basket', all new seals and clutches, no new thrust bearings {it only had a couple rollers}, new converter seal, new rear seal, kept the original bands. Master set plus hard parts was less than $400. YMMV. It is not hard, but must be clean clean clean, AND put back in order with all parts facing the right way or it won't work. I laid it out as I took it apart on sheets of newspaper ... about 12 feet. I used the torque converter hub to align the pump from the rear. It has been some time, so memory isn't perfect...
You may get a co-operative shop to inspect your hard parts for those that need replacement. The splines on the input shaft are tiny {bad engineering..!!!} and will twist with the torque a 4.0 can put out as they are only loaded on less than 1/4" of their length. All the torque is transmitted by tiny splines to a thin piece of metal... If you can't take it apart, you need a new one... The 'three fingered basket' and input plate were worn, and my idea of flipping to get a new wear surface would work, but welding was better, and only $25... OD drum will likely be scored, planetary and sun gears likely cooked, center support must not have grooves, and no grooves on governor either. Both can be repaired by 'aftermarket' stuff. On assembly, the center support should fall into place. Do not force.
tom

 

Talk to a local transmission shop. The basic trans stayed the same when it was 'electrified', but the valve body and control solenoids were swapped. The old had two{or more?}, one for converter lockup and one for .... ... overdrive? Been too long.
You may be able to swap the old valve body into the newer transmission. A shop could tell you. There were a lot of improvements made over time to beef up and increase longevity. Torrington bearings {almost like the thrust bearings on a shaft where it comes into the reduction gears} replaced a lot of bushings. Many parts were made of thicker stuff, and so on.
The price you get quoted will be totally dependent on your location. You can shop the web for ball park, but you have to add in shipping costs plus core return shipping.
I did a friends in a 90 and replaced the input shaft, the planetary in the OD, welded the 'basket', all new seals and clutches, no new thrust bearings {it only had a couple rollers}, new converter seal, new rear seal, kept the original bands. Master set plus hard parts was less than $400. YMMV. It is not hard, but must be clean clean clean, AND put back in order with all parts facing the right way or it won't work. I laid it out as I took it apart on sheets of newspaper ... about 12 feet. I used the torque converter hub to align the pump from the rear. It has been some time, so memory isn't perfect...
You may get a co-operative shop to inspect your hard parts for those that need replacement. The splines on the input shaft are tiny {bad engineering..!!!} and will twist with the torque a 4.0 can put out as they are only loaded on less than 1/4" of their length. All the torque is transmitted by tiny splines to a thin piece of metal... If you can't take it apart, you need a new one... The 'three fingered basket' and input plate were worn, and my idea of flipping to get a new wear surface would work, but welding was better, and only $25... OD drum will likely be scored, planetary and sun gears likely cooked, center support must not have grooves, and no grooves on governor either. Both can be repaired by 'aftermarket' stuff. On assembly, the center support should fall into place. Do not force.
tom

 

"""Traveling at about 50 mph, the van jerked like hitting bump. Now there is no overdrive. When the shifter is moved from (D) to D, there is no difference in RPM, but when in what should be overdrive, there is a high pitched whining sound""""

symptoms point to broken snapped OD band or it's actuator/piston
happens more often on the 4L because of much higher torque levels.
requires tranny removal and complete tear-down, OD band is at back end of the stack.
can use the OD band from your 96 but easier and cheaper time wise to get a new one, $25 bucks tops.

may as well do a complete rebuild upgrade when you're in it with more frictions and steels in clutch packs to max stack, new Torringtons for the brass thrust bushings. check and mic all hard parts for wear. replace all seals. new torque converter.

some guys mess around trying to rebuild, rebore valve bodies, not me. new only with the latest upgrades and improvements.
what I've got in my 96
http://www.valvebodyxpress.com/prodView.php?theId=21

what you'll want for the earlier A4LD
http://www.valvebodyxpress.com/prodView.php?theId=20


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=103666

 

I thought the OD band was right up front where the drum is... The rearmost band is for reverse. Unless this is not just a modified/prodified A4LD with a few more electrical controls.
Breaking band does make sense as the planetaries are not forced to start orbiting(?) if the drum isn't held still.
tom