Hey guys, did a bunch of searching earlier and can't find what I'm looking for. My 96, 5.0, e4of, Bronco with just under 160k isn't shifting right. When driving the trans doesn't go through the gears correctly. No slipping or banging into gears and I can drive fine if I manually shift through the set. Any ideas where to start? Fluid level is good and doesn't smell burnt. Thanks everyone, I'm not much of a transmission guy.

 

E4od not e4of, stupid auto correct on my phone!

 

hey man, first thing first, pull codes. if u cant/ don't know how an auto parts store should be able to do it for u and see if there are any codes logged. it sounds like ur shift solenoid is going/went out to me it. check the wiring/connection to the connecter at the trans. it is located on the passenger side its the only connecter on that side. hope it helps ill check back in tomorrow and hopefully u can see if there r codes

 

I agree. Pull codes and write the numbers down to post here. First, correct any engine codes. A happy transmission needs a happy engine. Then look at transmission codes.

Be sure the battery cables are good. Bad one can cause PCM confusion.

The heat shield on the passenger rear has two bolt to loosen then lift the shield back and up. Be very careful not to break the connector with tools or you will buy a $300 solenoid pack. Clean and dielectric grease the connector. Also clean the connector on the MLPS on the drivers side shift shaft. Then the two connectors under the master cylinder against the fire wall.

When was the fluid changed? Drop the pan, replace the filter and be sure the little rubber gasket on top of the old filter comes out. Rotate the torque converter until you see the plug and drain it. About 14-16 quarts.
If you broke the shift solenoid connector this is the time to replace it.

My two cents....if the fluid change does not fix it. With it shifting fine manually the problem is probably electrical. Communication between the speed and engine and computer is not good. If you have not done so replace the VSS on top of the differential.

Lastly, pull the PCM. I had to loosen most of the fender liner to get mine out. Send it to ECMTOGO.com in Houston. Made my engine and transmission run like new. Over time and heat the capacitors fail and often damage the board. They can repair it and give a year warranty. The numbers must match so don't try. Wrecking yard computers have the same issues as yours may have.

 

Hey guys thanks for all the help, I haven't been able to get to the Bronco yet work has been insane, 14 hour days since Saturday with no end in sight yet, luckily I have the excursion to drive until I get a chance to do my own thing, and as soon as I do I'll be sure to post back the outcome or next issue!

 

alright cool man. a bummer works been so hectic for ya

 

I am also having transmission problem on my 94 and here is my symptom:

It only happens at full stop; when I accelerate from a full stop, it doesn't shift if I keep stepping on gas. I can hear engine racing... The only way I can make it shift is to release gas, then press it again. Since the truck is moving at a higher speed now, the transmission got shifted somehow. And I don't have any problem shifting at higher speed.

The transmission is the notorious E4OD and I have it rebuilt at only around 70K miles. I run the rebuilt one for about 100K now.

Any transmission expert here can tell me what's wrong with it? I added some transmission sealer/conditioner today and don't know if that will help. The transmission fluid looks clean...

Thanks!

 

WhyFord, I'm not a transmission expert. My experience is everything electrically connected to my transmission. I chased transmission problems for six months until I sent the PCM to ECMTOGO.COM. Everything I said four replies ago would be my suggestions for you also.

 

Thanks, b4hntn!

Since I have a 94, pulling code is a little bit more complicated. I do have an Actron scan tool for 81-95 Bronco. Is this the one you use to get transmission code?

I just have my PCM replaced couple of month ago. When it broke, I know how transmission behave (it went crazy). I don't have that kind of problem now.

 

the TPS plays a major part in how the tranny shifts. as does the rear speed sensor on the top of the 8.8 diff. pull codes from the ecu to see if you get any tps codes and start there. also wont hurt to perform a fluid/filter change.

 

I would think any code reader for Ford 1981-1995 should work. Get your engine free of issues first then work on any 600 series transmission codes. Even if the oxygen sensor does not throw a code replace it if has been awhile. I keep my Innova 3135 code reader and book in the Bronco to check Continuous Memory if it dies. If I get code 111 I assume the cause was bad gas.

 

Where this TPS is located on a 94 (top/side of the engine)? I replaced the speed sensor some time ago. Thanks!

 

It is on the bottom side of the throttle body. Greystreak92 has given the meter test procedure many times if you need to search by his name.

If you just want to go ahead and replace TPS, removing the throttle body is the easiest. Get a new throttle body gasket and clean the TB with TB cleaner only.

We are still waiting for your codes.

 

OK, moment of truth:

During the Key On Engine Off test, I got 654 (Manual Lever Position sensor - not indicating PARK position) and 334 (EGR Valve Position sensor - signal voltage higher than expected (closed valve position)).

Since only 654 may be related to transmission, if this lever is not at the position when parked, when I shift it may not at the correct position either, right? So this may indicate a linkage problem?

Anybody knows how to adjust this? Thanks!

BTW, after I started the engine, I can't get any code from the scanner. The LED on it doesn't even light up. Is this normal? This is the first time I ever use it and I hate it!

 

There are two different adjustments: shift cable and MLPS alignment.
Set the parking brake well for each.

Cable, put it in Drive. Crawl under and pry the linkage off the end of the shifter arm. The shifter arm is bolted onto the shaft going into the transmission. Rotate the shifter arm to be sure the transmission is in Drive.
Have a helper sit in the Bronco and apply just a little bit of pressure downward on the gearshift while in Drive. Underneath the the shift arm and the cable linkage should line up. If not, pry the white plastic out of the black cable linkage to allow alignment.

MLPS, often causes shifting issues. Remove the above linkage again. Place transmission in Neutral. Remove nut on the end of the shifter shaft and BE SURE TO HOLD THE SHAFT TO KEEP FROM DAMAGING TRANSMISSION INTERNALLY. Remove the shifter arm then you can see the MLPS alignment marks. Be sure the shaft is in Neutral and the MLPS marks should be lined up.

Should you decide to replace the MLPS take the old one to your dealer.
If the connector points upwards, don't let them tell you the MLPS with connector pointing rearward will work. Been there...