Beans E fuel install ???
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 583
Likes: 46
From: Utah
Beans E fuel install ???
So I finally got the kit.
I gutted death valley and started to install the Beans fittings.
My question is do I have to pull the turbo or downpipe off?
On the rear of the passenger head for the feed line the instructions have you remove the brass fitting and install a brass 45* fitting, then a steel 6an fitting.
I disconnected the DP from the turbo and was able to move it an inch or so. 30 minutes and more patience than I have passed and I was able to get the brass 45* fitting in without stripping it. But I cant get a wrench on it to tighten it. The instructions dont say anything about removing either of them.
The instructions suck. They say to refer to the pictures several times but there arent any pictures. This hillbilly needs pictures to install something!
Any tips from those of you who have done this already would help greatly!
I gutted death valley and started to install the Beans fittings.
My question is do I have to pull the turbo or downpipe off?
On the rear of the passenger head for the feed line the instructions have you remove the brass fitting and install a brass 45* fitting, then a steel 6an fitting.
I disconnected the DP from the turbo and was able to move it an inch or so. 30 minutes and more patience than I have passed and I was able to get the brass 45* fitting in without stripping it. But I cant get a wrench on it to tighten it. The instructions dont say anything about removing either of them.
The instructions suck. They say to refer to the pictures several times but there arent any pictures. This hillbilly needs pictures to install something!
Any tips from those of you who have done this already would help greatly!
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,008
Likes: 7
From: Austin, TX
If it's anything like mine was, you might need to make your own wrench to get to it. Lets work through this problem and find a solution.. What is causing you to not be able to tighten down that fitting? Is the wrench too long? Downpipe in the way? Maybe need to bend a wrench?? There have been many times that I've had to cut a wrench in half to get something done. Just work with it. Find what is getting in your way and either move it or make a wrench that will work around the problem.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 583
Likes: 46
From: Utah
You are looking at the brass fitting. The black tube on top is the tras dipstick and the aluminum pipe is the DP. If I just have to completely remove the DP I will. I just dont want to if I dont have to.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,008
Likes: 7
From: Austin, TX
Looks to me like once the DP is out of the way it'll be pretty easy. If you have an aftermarket 3" DP, you should be able to pull just the top half out pretty easily.
Tough to tell from where I'm sitting, but if you were to cut a wrench in half, could you get to the fitting without pulling the downpipe?
Tough to tell from where I'm sitting, but if you were to cut a wrench in half, could you get to the fitting without pulling the downpipe?
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Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 583
Likes: 46
From: Utah
No, I can barely get my fingers in there. The DP was installed by previous owner. It's a two piece right? Just undo the clamp and pull it out the top?
If I get the DP out it will open it up. I was just wondering if there was a way around it. Seeing as how my "instructions" dont say I have to remove it.
If I get the DP out it will open it up. I was just wondering if there was a way around it. Seeing as how my "instructions" dont say I have to remove it.
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Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 583
Likes: 46
From: Utah
Help me out here. I undid the clamp connecting the middle of the DP. Could not get the top half free to save my life. Undid the bottom half and got the entire DP to move about an inch on the top end. Found a 9/16" shorty wrench. Was able to get the brass fitting turned a few more times but that was it. It isnt tight yet and it's killing me! I'm being as patient as I can but I really want my truck running again.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
Help me out here. I undid the clamp connecting the middle of the DP. Could not get the top half free to save my life. Undid the bottom half and got the entire DP to move about an inch on the top end. Found a 9/16" shorty wrench. Was able to get the brass fitting turned a few more times but that was it. It isnt tight yet and it's killing me! I'm being as patient as I can but I really want my truck running again.
gotta twist it just right while pulling it out. its a pain.
Sometimes you gotta get under the truck and adjust the bottom part of it to help.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,168
Likes: 10
From: San Ramon Ca.
You don't want to tighten those fittings to tight. Did you use a thread sealant?
In the link below there are instructions that you can download. Scroll down until you see download installation instructions. They aren't specific to the Beans system but might help you out.
Driven Diesel 7.3L OBS Regulated Return Kit
In the link below there are instructions that you can download. Scroll down until you see download installation instructions. They aren't specific to the Beans system but might help you out.
Driven Diesel 7.3L OBS Regulated Return Kit
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 583
Likes: 46
From: Utah
Well its all done. It took me long enough but I took my time and actually didnt break anything. Idles a little smoother. Cant really tell a big difference during normal driving but on the freeway there is a noticeable difference on the top end. Puts out A LOT more smoke when I really get on it though.