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I have a 2004 and when i cold start it will idle rough, miss and lacks power when i start to drive and also surges until it starts to warm up around 140 ect. This happens even on a 70 degree day. I have codes for #6 & #8 glow plug that i need to check out still and when i checked ficm volts with sg it showed a low of 46.5 volts during koeo initial buzz test. I also checked the ficm with a multi meter and got 45.5 during the same test. I do get a code for #5 & #2 contribution fault but only occasionally and not together. So do you think my ficm is starting to go and will it cause a contribution fault or is that going to just be the injector starting to go? Also no smoke from tail pipe ever.
When mine went out it would show a contribution fault on cylinder #2 and the ficm only showed week while it was idling. Around 36 volts. While cranking it was at 47.5 volts. It had pretty much the same symptoms of what your having. It also had the ficm fault code showing.
I did get my batteries checked since i have no idea when they were put in. The drivers side was 100% the passengers side was only 70% charged but he said it passed the load test. It did have some corosion on the terminals of that battery so i cleaned it up and gonna recheck after some driving.
It says full syn on jug and it has the ssme ratings as t6.
Your right on the synthetic thing, I looked at it around a year ago and it stated it surpassed synthetics but did not say it was synthetic. Looked it up on web and it must be a new product,may be a better oil than rotella? with delo the history has always been good in the diesel market.
What did it go for a gallon?
for ficm monitoring, use ur scangauge to check the voltage WHILE cranking and after cranking. after starting the truck and allowing it to idle, the ficm main power should not drop below 45v for not even a second. if it does, that is the first sign the ficm is going out. it will be the time to repair and upgrade the ficm components.
the oil will have to be ci-4 or cj-4 rated.
how u determine if it really is an injector going out will depend on ur test for the ficm main power. again, if it drops below 45v for any one second thru the entire test, then it means it's going out. it doesnt necessarily mean the injector is going out.
best to test after a cold soak (12 hours), then do tat 1st start of the day.
Wal mart only had 3 jugs of t6 and i seen the delo sitting there for $18 a galon so i picked it up. As for checking ficm i did the whole test sequence on a cold soak 50 degree morning. It never dropped below 45.5 volts but even on the highway it would bounce around from 47 to 48. I know it might not be totaly gone but i am wondering if it is on borrowed time.
Make sure your batteries are both good and your altenator is puting out correct volts and amps,should be 13.5+-14v can check amperage if you have right equip.
I have wiped out a ficm from bad altenator so check out your elect system first.
I agree on checking that alternator too. Even If batteries are both good, the stupid alternator may be going out. If u have to change It out, go for at least a 220 heavy duty one.