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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Starter/flex plate issues

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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 09:16 AM
  #16  
1986F150six's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
I agree on the visual inspection before taking stuff apart; coming to conclusions based only on symptoms is never a good idea.

Somebody rep big vann for me, I need to spread the love.
Done as requested!
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 12:28 PM
  #17  
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From: Lost
Originally Posted by big vann
You should do a visual inspection of the flex plate before you remove it.Simply rotate it by hand and check the teeth as well as checking for warpage.It's a big job to remove the flex plate.My bet is the wrong starter as Ken stated there is a difference in engagement depth from standard to auto trans.
Yes, checking the flexplate before pulling it out is a good idea, which is why I suggested that in my previous post:

Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
Only way to know for sure, drop the starter, and check it out. While it's out, rotate the engine slowly with a socket and breaker bar on the front of the crank, while inspecting the teeth on the flexplate. If it looks bad in 1 spot, it will likely look about the same in 3 (6cyl) or 4 (V8) spots. Replacement would be a good idea.

Ironically, I'll be doing this same task before long. I won't bother with checking the flexplate before pulling it, I already know it's bad. Been getting worse for the last 3-4 years, and now it's bad enough the starter won't engage without turning the engine by hand, and even then it doesn't stay engaged more than 1 or 2 revolutions. Sounds rather nasty, too.......

I almost had a new flexplate put in when the trans was rebuilt, just for the heck of it. Didn't quite have the funds, and it still looked decent, so I took a chance. It lasted 8 years.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 01:45 PM
  #18  
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You're right Rogue Wulff.I did repeat what you originally stated,and then repeated it a second time after the OP stated he was going to remove the flexplate/converter.I was thinking that perhaps he missed the posts regarding visual inspection before removal.I've replaced flexplates and know that it's a huge job.Trying to save the OP from performing potential uneeded work.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 03:21 PM
  #19  
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From: Lost
Yeah, it's huge job. Would hate anyone to go that far without the need to do so.
No worries, we're all just trying to assist. The old saying about horses and water still applies to a lot of other things too.

I know mine needs done. And have known for a long time, just didn't want to tackle it.
Not much choice now.....
 
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Old Jun 23, 2012 | 09:49 AM
  #20  
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Ok well here's the solution!!! After visual inspection and not seeing a damn thing wrong other than the dust cover plate being bent a little bit, I decided to try a ford shim. I straightened/flattened the dust cover and put the starter back in with a shim. Starts perfect and sounds like every other ford I hear start. Thank god!!!! I actually bought the shim months ago but was convinced I didn't need it and was going to return it but just didn't get to it.

Well all and all, it works! Thanks all for your help. I'd be junking this thing and buying a Chevy if it wasn't for your help!!!! Much appreciated. I love my bullnose ford!
 
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Old Jun 25, 2012 | 09:12 PM
  #21  
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Okay, I have followed this thread from the beginning. Yes I am having the same problem on my 86 Bronco with a 351HO and C6. Bought it a few months ago with a newly installed starter and flywheel/ring gear. The old starter is an Auto one. So I assume the new on in it is also. It has sounded bad from day one. And is getting scary bad now.

I would like to know about this ford starter shim you talked about. I would like to try one. Have you got a part number for it? A picture, Where did ya get it. Any info ya have for this please.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2012 | 09:37 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by arctic y block
Okay, I have followed this thread from the beginning. Yes I am having the same problem on my 86 Bronco with a 351HO and C6. Bought it a few months ago with a newly installed starter and flywheel/ring gear. The old starter is an Auto one. So I assume the new on in it is also. It has sounded bad from day one. And is getting scary bad now.

I would like to know about this ford starter shim you talked about. I would like to try one. Have you got a part number for it? A picture, Where did ya get it. Any info ya have for this please.

I got the shims from the help section at advance auto. I'm sure any of the chain stores will have them. The package came with 2 different shims and only 1 was usable for my particular starter! I wanna say they were like $8? I don't have a picture but i have the 2 bolt starter. I guess at some point ford used a starter (in any one of their vehicles...could be a car too) with 3 mounting bolts that I now have and is useless for me.

Sorry I can't provide much more information. This starter issue had me baffled for months and oddly enough the shim worked. I hope you can bare the same results!!!! Keep us posted!!!

Al
 
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 12:53 AM
  #23  
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I understand the shims for a GM. So the Ford one sets over the input housing that holds the starter drive?
 
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 11:40 AM
  #24  
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From: Lost
Originally Posted by granny_rocket
I got the shims from the help section at advance auto. I'm sure any of the chain stores will have them. The package came with 2 different shims and only 1 was usable for my particular starter! I wanna say they were like $8? I don't have a picture but i have the 2 bolt starter. I guess at some point ford used a starter (in any one of their vehicles...could be a car too) with 3 mounting bolts that I now have and is useless for me.

Sorry I can't provide much more information. This starter issue had me baffled for months and oddly enough the shim worked. I hope you can bare the same results!!!! Keep us posted!!!

Al
I have seen those shims before, usually in the "Help!" line out front. I've never personally needed to use them, but I've seen a couple people that did.
Yes, ford used both 2 bolt and 3 bolt starters.
Many different types of 2 bolt, but they have the same bolt spacing. Commonly found types are the "small block" type for 250 & 240/300 I6's and windsor pattern V8s (351C as well) and the 351M/400 & 429/460 "big block" pattern. The latter have a threaded hole on the starter nose.
The 3 bolt style was used on older stuff, like the 144/177/200 I6's and FE V8's. I think even some of the 2.3L I4's & 2.8 V6's also used this style. I don't know of anything newer that uses this 3 bolt type.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 11:50 AM
  #25  
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The newer stuff uses a "3 bolt type" but the center "bolt" is a dowel pin. There was a thread a while back, may have been made into a sticky regarding starters. On a lot of our trucks you can replace the old movable pole piece starter with a PMGR type.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 11:50 AM
  #26  
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My Napa store's help section is depleted and never restocked years ago. Is there any chance to get a part number? I live in a remote area on an Island. I will have to mail order it off the net. I haven't had any luck Goggling it yet.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 11:57 AM
  #27  
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From: Lost
Originally Posted by arctic y block
My Napa store's help section is depleted and never restocked years ago. Is there any chance to get a part number? I live in a remote area on an Island. I will have to mail order it off the net. I haven't had any luck Goggling it yet.
I did a quick search, and came up with a 2 bolt single shim. Motormite/help/dorman part number 02359. 3/32" thick.

Dorman Help! 02359 - Starter Shims | O'Reilly Auto Parts
 
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 12:05 PM
  #28  
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Thanks RW. That will work fine

I tried to rep you but said I gotta spread some luv first.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 04:03 PM
  #29  
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Okay I crawled my Fat Crippled butt under The Bronk last night. It already has a shim. It is only a couple of months since the starter and flex plate where R&Red. So now I am about to go out and pull the starter to see just how it is wearing. I am hoping the shop that did the work just before I bought her got the right parts in but did not need the shim, And hope the shim is now the problem. ( Do you think this is a possibility?) A friend is in town and if Napa has one I will have him pick up a new starter drive. As long as it is for a 351W with an auto trans it should be right. Right?
 
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 07:35 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
I agree on the visual inspection before taking stuff apart; coming to conclusions based only on symptoms is never a good idea.

Somebody rep big vann for me, I need to spread the love.
Got him!!
 
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