How about making one out of steel & tig it to the outside of the pan .Stitch weld 1/4 " at a time cool with air.. Or JB weld( the Slow set one ) it to the pan .. Better yet , just one small but strong bar that can easily be slipped in the hole one side at a time , while already bolted to the new (steel) adapter & then tightened when in place . You may even be able to seal it from the outside with an o ring or a gasket......

 

A couple years ago I replaced my fuel pump and my buddy that was helping me pulled it out and dropped the metal tapett in my engine I cut a hole in the pan took it out and tack welded it and then jb welded it and it is still leak free although I might need to grind some off and reapply soon but all is well still

 

Well after jb weld caused its not even a consideration. Good news just came in an email that it will be here next week. Not sure if before Thursday but at least I can get it done sooner than later.

 

Now that's funny right there!

 

On a second note clays package showed up with my auto meters. Sure was a nice sight coming home from 12 hours logging. Hope the rest shows in the morning. Turbo is on the plate for Sunday or I can start fabbing pipes till this miracle oil plug shows.

 

Man every one is getting presents today.

 

I hope everything else goes smooth for you. I know that oil pan has given you a fit. It sucks, but it happens. Good luck with the rest of it though!

 

I think what most guys do is to raise the engine enough to drop the pan just far enough to unbolt the two bolts that hold the pickup tube on and then remove the tube with the pan.

 

I've heard of guys doing that on the F150's, but not on the PSD's.

 

I have heard of a couple guys doing it on a PSD, but I would think you would have to raise it so far to clear the crank that it would be all but pulled out at that point anyway.

My pan leaks. I am putting it off, but I think I am going to have to do something about it sooner or later. I keep thinking it can't be the pan, but I don't know what else it could be. I can watch it drip off the back of the lip of the pan in the rear when I pull the inspection cover. Only leaks when it is running, but I can't see it running down the back of the block anywhere so I think it must be the silicone between the block and the pan that is leaking. I probably got it too thin in one spot or something. I just dread thinking about pulling the engine again. Might just wait and do it when I swap fenders since I will have the front end all torn apart anyway. In the mean time, it keeps my undercarriage rustproofed....

 

Oil cooler leaking will make it look like every joint on your truck is leaking.

somehow it can even get over on the starter.

 

My oil cooler has a slight leak, but I seriously doubt that is why it drips where it does. I would love to be wrong though... Maybe I will rebuild the oil cooler first just in case. I had planned to just do the cooler while the engine was out, but if there is ANY possibility that it will save me having to pull the engine again, I will do it. Funny thing is I can see it weep out and drip off the back edge of the pan. in the middle of the block. Kinda half makes me think rear main seal, but I know that is an uncommon issue on these engines.

 

Powerwash the bejesus out of everything in there with hot water, then see what gets dirty first. You'll find your leaks. =)

 

Yeah, I just hate using a power washer inside the engine bay or anywhere near it. Axles first, then I will worry about this... and the body....and the paint....and... and .... and.... LOL good thing I enjoy tinkering with this thing (most of the time).

 

Well just wanted to update this thread too. Got the fitting in from Strictly Diesel. Install took less than 5 minutes. Pretty slick little way they figured out how to make it work. Noticed there are two orings on the back side, so I'm pretty sure that should solve the leaking issue. One expensive piece, but like I said it took less than 5 minutes to put on, and looks pretty rock solid for a dip stick adapter.

The plus side its a very solid part and works perfectly. The negative is its 300 bucks...cheaper than pulling the motor though!

I could have milled one from 3D modeling it to finished produce in a couple hours...if I still had acces to a 3 axis machine.

Anyways this problem is over besides I have the adapter that is still in the pan witht the o ring. It will be retrieved some day when the pan needs to come off!

I read another thread where the guy dropped the stock adapter and was able to fish it out in 15 minutes. I spent close to 3 hours with no luck so don't get angry if you have a hard time doing the same.