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I originally posted in the big trucks forum but didn't get any responses.
I am new to this site and am hoping for some help.
I have a 96 Bronco with the 5.8l engine.
After 5-15 minutes of running the engine dies unless I am under power on the highway when it quits but fires right back up with a thud.
The fuel pump was replaced which didn't solve anything. I have now replaced the ignition module (gray one) and still the same problems and the engine light is on now.
I am going to try the black module but am not holding my breath.
Mechanic suggested something to do with the distributor.
Any ideas what else it could be???
This truck is going to my son soon and I don't want him to experience loss of power going through an intersection.
Bad ECT sensor. Classic example of "stuck cold" which allows it to fire up readily even when hot to the point of hot-soaking. It may or may not produce any fault Codes but it wouldn't hurt to pull the Codes first just to be sure there isn't some other glaringly obvious problem. The ECT is mounted in the fitting atop the water neck. You can check the sensor to see if it is actually stuck but its a tedious process involving an oven or some OTHER means of warming the sensor. If you want more info on this potential problem, run a search of the forum using ECT as the search criteria.
Well thanks to some other posts on FSB I changed the ignition module from the grey one the mechanic sold me to the black one I bought at NAPA and no more engine quitting issues, at least not yet.
Thanks for the reply.
If it does quit again I suggest the ECT like GS said. Should that not cure it replace the PIP (stator) sensor in the distributor with Motorcraft. I would not replace the distributor with remanufactured as it may have the same issue. Note, keep a spare ICM with you. It does not have to be mounted in the heat sink to get you home. Just let it hang from the harness. Was the grey one getting unusally hot?
The 96 is the special year for OBD-II so he's in the elite upper class of Bronco owners like me (okay I suppose OBD-II isn't that special) but he would need a code reader then or go to the parts store for them to read it. I recommend that you, Bronco96, get a code reader though because they are really useful and you can get some semi-decent ones on amazon for fairly cheap so it may be something you want to invest in.
So it quit again this morning on the highway, tack falls off but then kept going. I guess it is time for a code reader. Unfortunatly for me I really dont know anything about these ignition systems and all the sensors.
Thanks for the replies. I will report back.
Study all of this site. Fuel Injection Technical Library
Get a code reader. I expect you will see a continuous memory (CM) reading of PIP failure which could be ICM, coil or most likely the stator in the distributor IF you replaced the ICM with the proper type. Unless you want to play distributor roulette and replace many I suggest replacing just the stator with Motorcraft IF you get a PIP code in CM.