Does anyone else have this problem?

At around 84k miles had to replace heater core
At around 88K miles failed again.
At around 92k miles yet again
And now at 96k failed yet again.

Each time was replaced by Ford dealership.

1st and 3rd time by Ford in Pensacola, Fl
2nd and 4th time by Ford in Brunswick, Me.

Only this time I couldn't afford, nor did I feel inclined to spend big bucks to put in another core, so I had them (Brunswick) run the feed going to the h. core back into the return at the rear of the cyl. head, bypassing the core. This means no heat inside the vehicle, which might necessitate winter woolies this fall when we return down South.

I do have a copy of a TSB that says these things can fail, and can be caused by too high a flow of coolant through the core. A restricter can be and is installed in the feed hose, to reduce flow. Also excessive electrolysis in the coolant itself can attack the core (presumably the weak link in the cooling system).

Any and all suggestions will be welcome, as with no heat in the cab I am not looking forward to the wrath from my wife later on this coming fall on our Southbound trip. I do need to do something. Thanks.

BTW this is a 2001 E450 6.8l four winds 23' class C RV.

 

How is it failing? Break somewhere, pinhole, corrosion......?

How often is the RV used and what coolant are you using? I havn't heard anything about excessive heater core failures.

 

WTH ???

somethings extremely fishy about that..

there is NOOOO way in hell a heater core can fail that quickly, esp. over and over..you have some other issue..

maybe something is poking/cutting into your heatercore.. you have more chance of winning the lottery then getting 4 bad heater cores in a row, esp from different vendors at different times.

ps i've NEVER seen someone on here complain of an issue with a heatercore in a SD platform..while there is no doubt like everything else its possible for them to wear out/leak, your case is very very strange indeed.

GL with it, but i suspect you need to have the dash disassembled and really gone over to see how things are fitting together and wear the part is failing...i'd bet the farm you have a rubbage problem that is cutting into the heatercore or a misalignment issue

 

What a pain! at least it is consistent.

Reading over the TSB: 01-15-6***CLIMATE CONTROL - REPEAT HEATER CORE FAILURE ***COOLING SYSTEM - REPEAT HEATER CORE FAILURE It tells you or a competent technician how to check for excessive electrolysis. Has anyone ever done that and what were the results? If present it says to check the grounds. Was that ever completed? The restrictor is the last part of the process. Something just doesn't seem right. Not that many complaints on the web either. Somebody should be able to post up an idea of where all the grounds are on an '01 E450. I am interested in seeing what resolves this for you.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkf

How is it failing? Break somewhere, pinhole, corrosion......?

How often is the RV used and what coolant are you using? I havn't heard anything about excessive heater core failures.

Corrosion has been quoted as the problem, though stupid me I never looked myself. Vehicle never sits more than 2-3 wks between trips. Annually put on 10-12k miles approx. Coolant always supplied by ford service shop.

By TrdLtly: Reading over the TSB: 01-15-6***CLIMATE CONTROL - REPEAT HEATER CORE FAILURE ***COOLING SYSTEM - REPEAT HEATER CORE FAILURE It tells you or a competent technician how to check for excessive electrolysis. Has anyone ever done that and what were the results? If present it says to check the grounds. Was that ever completed? The restrictor is the last part of the process

At 2nd failure mechanic found .75 volts b4 replacing core, and then cleaned ground cable. At completion, voltage between neg. batt. (pos. conn. was removed) and coolant in reservoir was "0"


By Fordfanatic4life:
GL with it, but i suspect you need to have the dash disassembled.....

Thanks. I've watched this enough times I might try it myself. BUT........How do I remove the "snap on connections going to and from the heater core?

BTW..... At last stop the mech. suggested adding more engine to ground wires. How many do I need?

Thanks for the support....

 

You probably already realize this, but the reason he had a reading of "0" VDC after "all the work" (replacing heater core) was because he drained the coolant. They probably never fixed the real problem of a grounding issue. I would bet that he checked "one" ground and assumed that he fixed it instead of digging around and finding the other 4 or 5 grounds that are not bonded correctly. The idea behind the grounds is to dissipate the energy in the shortest path possible, i.e. many grounds.

You can never have to many grounds, but you really only need one good one in theory.

The key for you will be to be proactive and check your coolant annually to see were it is at. If there is a trace of VDC per the TSB then change out some coolant.

 

Now to remove the latest failed core from the engine compartment, I am stumped on how to remove the 2 hoses coming out of the core itself. Do I require a special tool for the "quick disconnect" fittings?
Thanks.


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Sorry to leave you hanging, but someone else will have to help out there. I haven't ever had to do a heater core on the SD's.

 

I never pulled a late model heater core before but I believe they use an A/C and Fuel system style disconnect tool to remove the lines.(I looked up the heater core part and the fittings look the same as the A/C)

This is the set I have which I bought at Advance Auto for like $13 when I replaced the A/C accumulator on my sisters car. It should work on the heater core also I'd imagine. The tool just slides in and holds back the spring steel on the inside of the connector which holds the fitting in place.
Great deal on OTC Tools 6517 at ToolTopia.com

Once you get the heater core replaced and update things as per the TSB I would flush the entire coolant system very well and upgrade to the "Motorcraft Premium Gold" coolant or "Zerez G-05". Both have a robust additive package which should help protect your cooling system better.

 

Great feedback from y'all. I am getting close to plunging ahead with this. Will report back on any progress.


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No problem, many thanks again...



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I have seen this several times in my 24years as a tech on a couple different brands of vehicles.Have had three Ford V10's come into the shop with this issue.All three came from other shops with the same cust concern of several heater core replacments in a short period.Here is what I have found:
1-First one came in with three heater cores replaced in 1 1/2,first thing completed was a proper cooling system pressure test and rad cap pressure test.Found Rad cap failed pressure relief test.Would not blow off untill well over 24psi.....cores couldn't handle the exessive pressure.

2-3 finding were not as cheap.Again completed visual inspection and pressure test.Slowly the pressure dropped in the system,I'm talking over 15 min test,pressure would drop to 0-psi.Coolant level was a little low in the reservoir,but cust had been topping it up thats how he figured is was leaking.Heater core was leaking,but when we started the engine,cooling system pressure went up-found a leaking head gasket.Combustion pressure were the cause of the repeated core failures.

Have someone do a voltage test of your coolant...sounds funny I know.The coolant will become acidic from the extreme heat and the additives in the coolant.Your cooling system can become a large battery.When coolant becomes acidic,it will abviously eat metal,alluminum first.I worked a dealerships for years and most of the guys working there(not all),dont ever test the basics or properly trouble shoot stuff.They just replace parts in my experiance.Get a reputtable shop or a radiator shop to completed a thorough system inspection.Someone is missing something in the diagnostic process here.

 

Thanks for the above info. I'll talk to the nearest Ford dealership Monday next about performing the above pressure testing. I don't even want to think about a leaking head gasket.....THAT would be a huge headache!

I just finished checking for voltage between coolant reservoir and neg. grd. my meter showed 0.05 volts. TSB 06-21-19 states that voltage less than 0.4 v is acceptable. I plan checking per the TSB other areas for high voltage. (above 0.4 v).......I can feel a headache coming on. Sheeesh, I had no idea having a V10 could be so much fun.

 

I don't think the V10 is the problem,the problem has yet to be found and diagnoised correctly thats all.Like I said earlier,I have seen this concern on other models as well.

Engines that are assembled with several different metals(alluminum,cast iron,steel gaskets)have put huge demands on coolant to control heat,corrosion and strength.Long life coolants are poorly labeled(IMO) and miss understood.I would never leave coolant in a engine for 100,00miles(160,000km),this is way too long.I would change it out every 50-60,000miles.Precausions like these will help prolong the live of all the cooling system components.

 

Each time I've experienced a heating core failure since 84k miles it seems my bill included about 2 gal. of Mastercraft coolant. Not sure what the total capacity of the system is though.

Incidentally, perhaps I should add that at 68k miles my computer crashed causing the injectors to stay open, and eventually threw a connecting rod.

Maybe my problem goes back to the replacement motor....@#%$!