Well starting to knock a few issues with our new to us 2001 V10 off the list. Today we tackled the doorlocks. Went ahead and redone all the doors plus the back hatch, the back hatch also had an issue with the key not locking the hatch but a little wiggling and greasing and thats a go. Here are some pics and quick details about the repair. All the doors are held in place with just 2 screws that are located behind the door reflectors and the power switch panels. We followed another tutorial on removing the panels and door handles which is a fairly easy procedure once you get in there. The actuators take a little wiggling but come out of the door fairly easy. Here are some pics on repairing the actuators themselves. The first pic I just pried the two halves of the actuator apart except I left the metal rivets intact.


After removing the motor we put it in a vise and just tightened it up enough to hold it in place while we pried the two metal tabs up that is holding the plastic piece of the motor to the metal piece.



Once you have the plastic piece removed, there is a small rectangle piece up against one side, this is the resistor that needs repairing which we wrapped in foil. I did spray contact cleaner in the plastic piece to clean all the contacts up. The first piece is the piece wrapped in foil and the second is it back into its cubby hole.


Now put the plastic piece back on the metal end of the motor, it is a bit tricky as the brushes have sprung closed. I slid the gear shaft at an angle into the hole which helped spread the brushes back open allowing it to fit back together fairly easy. Once you have it together, push the metal tabs on each side back down to hold the motor together again.


Now gently prize the actuator housing back open and put the motor back in place, note that the motor goes in so that the two prongs inside the housing line back up with the two slots on the motor. Also double check that the gear that the small gear on the motor rests on is sitting in its little notch. I had a couple that slid out of position, you will know its right when it snaps back together easily. Once I had it all back together, I ziptied it closed, some people put screws in it to hold it back together and some people remelt the pastic guide posts, zipties were right there on the shelf and worked fine for me.

Now just maneuver it back into its position inside the door, secure the handles and replace the door panel and your back in business. Enjoy.

 

Nice job! I'm still having issues with door I tried to fix but I get is one of these days. As long as the doors lock manually I can live with it.

On the door handle there are two special nuts (they have a build it washer) that hold it to the frame. Should I try to find another one of these nuts or just get a regular nut and washer?

 

I dont see what a regular nut and washer would hurt. I lost one of the nuts on my exhaust clamps on my 6.0 diesel and just used a regular 1/4-28 nut to replace that and I think that is more critical than a door handle. So id say use what you got.

 

When I insert the key on the passenger door the key won't turn. Any idea on how to fix this? I already try some wd40 while jingling the key?

 

Sounds like the locking rod may be binding. Have you tried graphite in the lock? With the door panel off you should be able to move the lock rod by hand back and forth to see if its hanging on anything. My hatch lock was messed up at first. The key would move though but it wouldnt lock. I had free movement clockwise to the unlock position but when we tried to move it back to lock it there wasnt any extra travel. Come to find out my power lock actuator had a piece broke off that holds it in place and it had fell down slightly not letting the lock rod travel. Once we got it out of the way and lubed up it works fine. The power actuator works fine too but we couldnt get it to stay on its mount so right now I have the hatch actuator unhooked til I can think of a creative way to hold it in place so we have to use the key to lock/unlock it now. But the main thing on the hatch is that it now locks. Most of the time I will have my key out anyway at the hatch so the power lock isnt that big of an issue there, just glad that the door locks work properly at the switch and the key chain clicker. One thing I do wish ford would have done at the hatch is have a lock/unlock switch to control the doors. Our suburban has a button on the rear hatch which I cant say Ive used it alot but hey its nice to have just in case.

 

When I removed the door handle the key still won't turn. I try the graphite.

I had the same problem with my hatch back! It works with the clicker most of the time, but I always double check it.

Ford's crappy door locks and weak plastic door handles are so disappointing to me.

 

Leave the door handle on first, try to move the locking rod by hand back and forth, you will be able to see what parts move with just the door panel off. Did the key not moving just start or had that been an issue. Also you might want to look at where the key goes in to see if it looks pushed in or not quite right. Someone had tried to punch out my drivers side lock on my 05 F250 and a key wont work in it due to that, the lock mechanism works fine in it otherwise.

 

Hey Mark, Great write-up. I added it to the "temp" Tech_Folder under Interior Components until the "old" Tech_Folder gets updated. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11898840

 

Sounds good. Glad you found it usefull. I couldnt have done it as easy if I hadnt came across the thorough posts on the subject.

 

I know you said a little wiggle, but how exactly to the actuators come out? Is there a screw or something holding it?

 

See if this helps:
Super Duty door lock actuator fix mod - YouTube

 

There is plastic tab you have to push, I used a flat head shew driver.

I circled it in the picture.

 

I'm an idiot, I saw the screws bit thought they were for the latch. Thanks Tread!

 

Thank you for the pictures and info. My rear lift gate was acting a little weak was going to buy another one until I had it popped open before I made it back to the garage. Had it cleaned up and put back together quick. Now I just have to do the rear passenger door. No sound from there.

 

Thanks for the tutorial fixed my rear hatch lock actuator today.