88 bronco 2 transfercase
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Joined: Jun 2012
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88 bronco 2 transfercase
I have a 88 bronco 2 with a auto trans with floor shift and the push button on ceiling I guess is for the transfer case. My guestion is I am looking to buy a parts bronco that is 5 speed stick manual transfer case to convert over to stick from auto trans and the parts bronco has a manual transfer case. Will my push button transfer case bolt up to the stick 5 speed manusl trans?
I assume since I have the doner bronco all the other parts can be transfered. Flywheel, clutch/pressure plate, throw out bearing, hydraulic clutch items, clutch pedel, I hear starter is different, I want to use the pust button transfer case items so I dont have a 2nd stick on the floor.
Drive shafts should be the same so I have spares.
And there maybe some things I forgot so the parts bronco can be striped.
I assume since I have the doner bronco all the other parts can be transfered. Flywheel, clutch/pressure plate, throw out bearing, hydraulic clutch items, clutch pedel, I hear starter is different, I want to use the pust button transfer case items so I dont have a 2nd stick on the floor.
Drive shafts should be the same so I have spares.
And there maybe some things I forgot so the parts bronco can be striped.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Take it from a guy that did that job. I would have the donor truck sitting near the recipient truck. Measure everything. I went from 5 spd Carbed to Auto EFI. There was differences! I had to have the front drive shaft shortened. Re- drilled cross member location for trans. Re -drilled motor mounts. Add circuits for computer , keep alive circuit. I would use your transfer case. Because you know it's good and it has the electric shift.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,533
Likes: 17
From: SW Florida
I would get rid of that electric transfer case and also the auto hubs. Rebuild the manual one instead since you have them both on your floor in front of you. It's not that the manual case itself is any simpler (it actually is, but not by much) it's that now you can't be stranded in a mudhole with a broken shift computer, shift motor, shift position sensor, or hubs that refuse to lock. Less failure items.
But, that's up to you. Just my opinion is all. I don't see why the electric case won't bolt back in. I ain't ever tried it, but the patterns should be the same either way.
EDIT: check the seals on your electrical connectors too. My old B2 was electric shift and I had trouble with it refusing to shift out of 2H. Pulled the connectors apart and they were corroded inside, so I cleaned and repacked with dielectric grease to keep moisture out.
But, that's up to you. Just my opinion is all. I don't see why the electric case won't bolt back in. I ain't ever tried it, but the patterns should be the same either way.
EDIT: check the seals on your electrical connectors too. My old B2 was electric shift and I had trouble with it refusing to shift out of 2H. Pulled the connectors apart and they were corroded inside, so I cleaned and repacked with dielectric grease to keep moisture out.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 6
From: Rio Rancho NM
The auto and manual starters are different and the aluminum plate between engine and bell housing is different between auto and manual. You'll either need a manual plate, or file the starter hole in the auto plate to fit the manual starter. You'll also need to crush the ribs flat in a vise, or they could hit the manual flywheel. I did it for a 4L swap a few months ago. My 4L came from an auto Sploder. I kept the BII TK5 tranny. 10 minutes with a file and bench vise is all you need. Just be sure it fits right and the plate clears the flyhweel before putting it all together.
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