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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 04:24 PM
  #16  
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From: Livoina,La
Pin line up G-I-N-I-G.
G= glow plug ohms should be .8-1.5
I= injector around 3.5
N= neutral/ground
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 04:25 PM
  #17  
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From: Livoina,La
CPS ='camshaft position sensor
Uvch = under valve cover wiring harness
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 04:32 PM
  #18  
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Got it thanks. I will check to see.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 06:11 PM
  #19  
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So I picked up a circuit tester to test the ohm's be in the mean time, I replaced the broken relay. Didn't help anything. I did realize that the engine wont idle up when I accelerate in while in neutral either.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 06:13 PM
  #20  
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Get it ohm out and ill say you'll find your problem
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 11:40 PM
  #21  
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So I checked the ohm's. One of the glow point pins would not give any reading. the other 7 read fine. For some reason I did not get any readings on any of the pins for injectors. Am I using my meter wrong. Red wire to the pin I'm testing and black wire to any grounded metal? Or do I put the black wire from the meter to the center pin which is the neutral pin?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 08:28 AM
  #22  
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For the injectors, use the center pin for the black probe.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 10:56 AM
  #23  
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Ok, so I tested the pins for the injectors and the needle on my meter jumps over to 0 on all of them. Is that possible none of them would be working but truck still runs? I've gotta be doing something wrong.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 11:56 AM
  #24  
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From: Livoina,La
Do you have you metter set to ohms
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 12:00 PM
  #25  
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Yep. It worked on the glow plug pins.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 12:28 PM
  #26  
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Have you tried it on the glow plugs again? Is the battery deed in the metter?

If you can get a reading you may have to pull the valve covers and visually inspect the wiring.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 12:34 PM
  #27  
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Thanks for the info. I have decided pulling the valve covers is what needs to be done. I did see a video about using a temperature gun and testing the exhaust to see if one side has less heat than the other side, but eventually I'm gonna have to pull the valve covers and since I'm there, I might as well replace glo plugs and everything else.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 01:58 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by reloaderbill
Thanks for the info. I have decided pulling the valve covers is what needs to be done. I did see a video about using a temperature gun and testing the exhaust to see if one side has less heat than the other side, but eventually I'm gonna have to pull the valve covers and since I'm there, I might as well replace glo plugs and everything else.
Just did my UVCH, glow plugs, and injector o-rings (might wanna go ahead and do those too) not a bad job.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 08:04 PM
  #29  
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So I replaced wire harnesses, glow plugs, and relay. Still nothing working on the drivers side. Only running on four cylinders. Could it be the fuel pump? Is there a way to test the fuel pump?
 
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 08:20 PM
  #30  
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Only 4 firing , good wiring ,,, IDM may be an issue ...

Only if you are sure all the Ohm readings on the injector solenoids are within specs
 
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