may have broke.
69 F-100 clutch problem
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Junior User
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69 F-100 clutch problem
Have a 69 F-100 with 4 speed manual.....
Yesterday when driving and shifting.....clutch pedal hit the floor and now has no tension. Does anyone have a good diagram of the mechanical system for this? I think a spring may have broke....but not sure where this would have been connected.....the large spring is in tact.
any ideas?
Thanks
Yesterday when driving and shifting.....clutch pedal hit the floor and now has no tension. Does anyone have a good diagram of the mechanical system for this? I think a spring may have broke....but not sure where this would have been connected.....the large spring is in tact.
any ideas?
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,209
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From: Black Hills of SD
Sometimes the rivets that hold the clutch arm pivot wear out and break. I've had it happen on my 72. You have to remove the bell housing to fix it. Ford used to carry the rivets and a new pivot bracket in a kit. I have also made the "rivets" by grinding bolt heads into a taper so they fit the holes.
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I think it may just be in the clutch release itself.....I have not had a chance to tear it apart....
I appreciate everyone's input. I will let you know what I found when I take it apart.
Thanks,
FordBoy....thanks for the diagram
I appreciate everyone's input. I will let you know what I found when I take it apart.
Thanks,
FordBoy....thanks for the diagram
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
T'wasn't caused by any spring, nor the fork. Look at #3 - Clutch Release Components in the LMC catalog pic.
This is the clutch release rod, attaches to the clutch pedal bellcrank under the dash, then routes thru the toe board to the equalizer bar.
This rod has two 90 degree ends with a nylon bushing (#2 in pic) on each. The bushings crack apart/disintigrate, the 90 degree ends begin to crack, eventually snap off.
When this occurs, there's a BANG and the clutch pedal hits to the floor.
Replace the rod and bushings, buy extra bushings. You have to keep an eye on these bushings, as they don't last very long.
This is a very common problem that affects all 1961/79 trucks.
I'd be willing to bet that others typing in this thread have the very same problem brewing, but are unaware...until now, that is!
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In the diagram there are 2 springs......
I only have the longer one in place.
Also....the rod is attatched and the pedal and assembly underneath move together...
I am trying to determine where the 2nd spring attaches....
anyone have a thought?
there needs to be counterbalance
I only have the longer one in place.
Also....the rod is attatched and the pedal and assembly underneath move together...
I am trying to determine where the 2nd spring attaches....
anyone have a thought?
there needs to be counterbalance
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
If you look closely at the diagram and the listings(for part #17 and 18), the springs fit different years and different places. It only needs ONE spring, attached to the push rod to return it back and keep the throw out bearing from riding on the clutch levers.
If all the linkage is attached and functioning BUT you have no clutch feeling(takes no effort to make it hit the floor), then likely you have deeper issues. Either the pivot on the bellhousing broke(common) or the pressure plate has failed. If it is a diaphram style it is also common for them to break and give you no clutch.
If all the linkage is attached and functioning BUT you have no clutch feeling(takes no effort to make it hit the floor), then likely you have deeper issues. Either the pivot on the bellhousing broke(common) or the pressure plate has failed. If it is a diaphram style it is also common for them to break and give you no clutch.
New User
Joined: May 2012
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From: Ventura County, CA
Click on this link, then pick which ever diagram applies to your truck/setup.
Ford Truck Technical Drawings and Schematics - Section G - Drivetrain (Transmission, Clutch, Transfer Case, etc.)
Ford Truck Technical Drawings and Schematics - Section G - Drivetrain (Transmission, Clutch, Transfer Case, etc.)
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Junior User
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OK.....correct...only need the one spring.
the pivot point in the bell housing is in tack......I am trying to figure out how the clutch fork needs to be positioned and attached.
Is it supposed to "snap" on the pivot point or just settle/pivot on it?
also....what is the fork controling? Also...is there another spring on the fork....anti-rattle spring?
Thanks
the pivot point in the bell housing is in tack......I am trying to figure out how the clutch fork needs to be positioned and attached.
Is it supposed to "snap" on the pivot point or just settle/pivot on it?
also....what is the fork controling? Also...is there another spring on the fork....anti-rattle spring?
Thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
There is a spring clip riveted to the arm that slips into a slot on the pivot. That holds it in location (for installing transmission). The arm will wiggle around while installed, though when you push back on it(to disengage clutch), it will set on the pivot properly.
The fork pushes on a bearing that pushes on the levers of the clutch(pressure plate) to disengage the clutch. While the clutch is engaged(pedal is up), the arm will float around if you move it.
The fork pushes on a bearing that pushes on the levers of the clutch(pressure plate) to disengage the clutch. While the clutch is engaged(pedal is up), the arm will float around if you move it.