"Wait to Start"
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2
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From: Ohio, the "North Coast"
"Wait to Start"
Greetings all!
Was very glad to discover this forum, I'm on my first diesel and there's a pretty steep learning curve involved. Recently brought home an 88, 350, 7.3, dually. I took it in to a local dealer for a PMI (Preventative Maintenance Inspection) and it did pretty well, needs brakes etc, but no real engine problems noted.
As part of the PMI two "safety" recalls were performed. One was brake related and the other was ignition. The question for you all is that since getting the truck back, my "Wait to Start" lamp is acting MUCH differently. It used to stay on for about 5 seconds(when engine cold) and would be on shorter times after the motor was warm. Now it flashes on for less than a second. Might this be something with the recall, or did they break something??
Thanks,
dj
Was very glad to discover this forum, I'm on my first diesel and there's a pretty steep learning curve involved. Recently brought home an 88, 350, 7.3, dually. I took it in to a local dealer for a PMI (Preventative Maintenance Inspection) and it did pretty well, needs brakes etc, but no real engine problems noted.
As part of the PMI two "safety" recalls were performed. One was brake related and the other was ignition. The question for you all is that since getting the truck back, my "Wait to Start" lamp is acting MUCH differently. It used to stay on for about 5 seconds(when engine cold) and would be on shorter times after the motor was warm. Now it flashes on for less than a second. Might this be something with the recall, or did they break something??
Thanks,
dj
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
"Wait to Start"
It sounds like glow plug problems. Its is my understanding that the amount of time to Wait to Start light is on is based on the resistance in the glow plug circuit. It a couple of glow plugs are burnt out the resistance lowers & the time the light is on shortens.
Testing Glow Plugs
To "read" the glow plugs, you need a digital volt/ohm meter. You need to take a resistance measurement of each GP by taking the plug off the end, hook the black lead of your meter to the negative post on the battery, and the red lead to the tip of the GP, Your meter should be on the RX1 scale, You should read 1 ohm or less on a good GP. A higher reading or no reading indicates a bad GP. Replace with ONLY Motorcraft/Beru plugs(about $8.00 at autozone) Other plugs will burn out quickly or can swell making removal imposible with out take the head off.
Another common problem is a loose connection of the controller ground wire (thin black wire) where it bolts to the engine. Sometimes it is bolted to the engine under a loose or painted valve cover bolt which will cause problems.
By the way, I stole the last two paragraphs from a couple of posts over on the Diesel Stop board.
Chris
Testing Glow Plugs
To "read" the glow plugs, you need a digital volt/ohm meter. You need to take a resistance measurement of each GP by taking the plug off the end, hook the black lead of your meter to the negative post on the battery, and the red lead to the tip of the GP, Your meter should be on the RX1 scale, You should read 1 ohm or less on a good GP. A higher reading or no reading indicates a bad GP. Replace with ONLY Motorcraft/Beru plugs(about $8.00 at autozone) Other plugs will burn out quickly or can swell making removal imposible with out take the head off.
Another common problem is a loose connection of the controller ground wire (thin black wire) where it bolts to the engine. Sometimes it is bolted to the engine under a loose or painted valve cover bolt which will cause problems.
By the way, I stole the last two paragraphs from a couple of posts over on the Diesel Stop board.
Chris
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New User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2
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From: Ohio, the "North Coast"
"Wait to Start"
Thanks for the feedback.
Yes, the beast is a bit harder to get going in the morning. I have also noticed that when she starts to "try" to fire up, the engine is quite rough for a bit. Smooths right out (well as smooth as a 7.3 gets I guess) after a moment or two, while wreathing the truck in a cloud of white smoke. Smoke clears as soon as the motor smooths out.
I'll check the glow plugs this evening.
On a more positive note, at least I don't have to worry about the batteries. The ones in the truck were shot so I put in two 1125 CCA industrial monsters. 2250 amps really spins the starter!
Thanks again,
dj
Yes, the beast is a bit harder to get going in the morning. I have also noticed that when she starts to "try" to fire up, the engine is quite rough for a bit. Smooths right out (well as smooth as a 7.3 gets I guess) after a moment or two, while wreathing the truck in a cloud of white smoke. Smoke clears as soon as the motor smooths out.
I'll check the glow plugs this evening.
On a more positive note, at least I don't have to worry about the batteries. The ones in the truck were shot so I put in two 1125 CCA industrial monsters. 2250 amps really spins the starter!
Thanks again,
dj
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 295
Likes: 3
From: Fort Wayne, IN. USA
"Wait to Start"
test the glow plugs when they are cold, as the heat up they will gain resistance. So let the engine cool all the way down when testing the plugs, or you can pull them and let them cool on the bench.
On edit - forgot to mention that when ever I've seen bad plugs they have either been good or a complete open, but have talked to guys that have seen weak plugs that will test at around 5-10 ohms when cold.
Also check the ground for the controller, if it's a bad ground you will see the same symptoms with the short cycle on the WTS lamp.
On edit - forgot to mention that when ever I've seen bad plugs they have either been good or a complete open, but have talked to guys that have seen weak plugs that will test at around 5-10 ohms when cold.
Also check the ground for the controller, if it's a bad ground you will see the same symptoms with the short cycle on the WTS lamp.
