So I have a few unrelated questions about our trucks.

1) Where did the "bump" in bumptruck come from? The ridge running down the side?

2) I know the brake (warning?) switch activates that little light in the lower left of my dash, I have the bulb and I do have the switch on my very grimy proportioning valve. What exactly does this switch do, how can I see if it still works ( it isn't currently coming on) and do I really even care?

3) Where does the backup light switch mount on a 3 speed columnshift truck, I do not have backup lights.

 

#1) '67 to '72 are called bumps because of the way the body has that bump running from the front to the rear of the body. Dents are from '73 to '79 for the same reason. They have that dent running from the front to the rear. #2) I'd leave it alone... It is just like an idiot light, meaning it usually comes on AFTER you already learnt what has happened or is happening. (Usually that you have a problem with lack of brake pressure in your lines. Could be from air in your lines, broken line or flex line, wheel cylinder leaking). Stepping on the brake pedal and having it go straight to the floor and not stopping does the same. Could also light up from a dirty/broken connection at the proportioning valve. Can also be wired in so that when you apply the parking brakes, that light comes on. #3) Open the hood, look at where the steering column comes through the firewall. You will then see where the shifter linkage rods go from the column down to the tranny. It is at that spot on the column where you should find the back-up switch. Simple push button style switch with a 2 wire connector. Do you have power going to that switch? Could be that it just needs adjustment. There is a nut on both sides of the mount. Could be NFG! Could be missing completely! Could be that there is a break in the wire from the switch back to the lights itself. Time to get the test light out!

 

Thanks. I will go looking for the switch tomorrow and I can get to tracing my problem this weekend.

Other projects this weekend are a complete overhaul of the cooling system since the thermostat/radiator flush didnt do the trick.... A few other small jobs, then it goes to the mechanic to iron out problems in the carb, tranny, and steering column.

Then, finally, she is fully road ready and it's time to start working on appearance.

 

Brad playing with the idiot light is up to you, I'd leave it alone. It has no real purpose.

What is the concern with the cooling system?





John

 

C7AZ-2B264-A .. Low Brake Fluid Warning Lamp Switch / All 1967 only FoMoCo vehicles.

C8AZ-2B264-A .. Low Brake Fluid Warning Lamp Switch / 1968/79 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline / 1968/69 all FoMoCo Passenger Cars / 1970 Maverick before 7/14/1969.

Both of these little charmers thread into the proportioning valve and both are terds. These switches are plastic, develop cracks in their threads, which causes brake fluid to seep out.

When this occurres, the low brake fluid warning lamp on the dash comes on...and stays on. Some peeps disconnect the wiring harness at the switch, so the lamp will stop glowing.

C9TZ-15520-A (Motorcraft SW-938) .. Backup Lamp Switch 3 speed manual & 3 speed O/D. Attaches to a bracket on the steering column, under the hood, adjacent to the 1st/reverse manual control selector lever.

Backup lamp switch with: New Process 435 & Warner T-18 4 speeds threads into the shift tower. The switch used 1967/68 is different than 1969/72.

1967/77 F100/350 with A/T. The backup lamps are controlled by the Neutral Safety Switch: C7TZ-7A247-A (Motorcraft SW-600).

Note: These trucks were available with a dealer installed accessory Park (emergency) Brake Signal Lamp (C7TZ-15A852-A). This is not the same as the low brake fluid warning lamp.

 

Thanks everyone for the help.

As for the brake fluid switch, I am going to clean the proportioning valve and unless I see leaking, I am leaving it be.

I will be checking the circuit on the backup light this weekend.

Joe, as far as the cooling system goes. It still is getting hot and I have already done a flush and changed the thermostat. When I did the flush the radiator still had a lot of corrosion in the core. I changed the heater block off valve that was corroded in the open position and the amount of rust lining the hoses Concerned me about putting a new radiator on just to have it clogged with old loose rust. Like I said in this or another post this truck sat up a WHILE in the past, I have found acorns sitting on the intake and birdsnest in a fender and headliner. Also, I already have a reman water pump that I might as well put on, it doesn't do me any good looking pretty in the box. I also need to put a shroud on.

So, this weekend the whole deal goes on. New radiator, shroud from salvage, water pump, new hoses, new clamps on corroded old ones. I am also installing a 10" electric fan as a pusher fan in front of the radiator behind the grill. This is a daily driver for me, and I go to law school in downtown Fort Worth, so I want the extra for those long stop/go drives in Texas heat. Just for looks painting the radiator top, water pump, and underside of hood with the ford blue engine paint.

I am curious if a shroud would take the paint as well...

 

Brad, I mix my antifreeze 50/50 with grocery store distilled water. I think it makes a great mix. I keep it premixed to add when needed to any vehicle of mine.




John

 

Sounds like a good plan. Wow, stop-n-go Foat Wuth summertime traffic...haven't experienced that beast in more than a decade. Even so, I would get a big bottle of engine flush, follow directions at least 3 times/flushes, then run the garden hose on full into and out of that engine block for an hour or so...I like overkill. Then I'd do the waterpump, thermostat, radiator, new hoses all around, fan, shroud, etc. Plus, use Joe's formulation of coolant and distilled water...fresh tap water, or the chemicals in it, can sometimes cause the freeze plugs to start leaking after a block has set for a long while...distilled water doesn't have the chemicals. Post a pix or two when you can.

 

We are doing the gardenhose flush on the block after we run the flush bottled stuff, and I also use 50/50 with store distilled. I am also going to lightly brush the block with a new bore brush, then flush it again. I forgot to say but I am also redoing (again) the thermostat but going with a 180 this time. I think I am going to repaint the thermostat inlet also.

Also, I used to use cheaper antifreeze but I spent enough on this job that I spurged for prestone. I am guessing the system will take 5-6 gallons of fluid, so I bought 3 gal unmixed antifreeze & then the water.

 

Shroud is fibreglass "au natural" black, radiator tanks painted semi-gloss black, waterpump painted Ford corporate blue. Some people get a can a spray paint, then go hog wild painting everything they see the same color.

There are two different fan shrouds, they do not interchange! One is only used with the Super Cooling radiator and its specific radiator support.

Fan shrouds have their specific ID number molded into the fibreglass, left (drivers) side upper corner.

1967 F100/350 352 / 1968/76 F100/350 360/390:

D3TZ-8146-C (replaced C8TZ-8146-K) .. Fan Shroud-Use with standard, xtra cooling & A/C radiators / Marked: D3TA-DA or C8TA-S

C7TZ-8146-B .. Fan Shroud-Use with Super Cooling radiator only / Marked: C7TA-8146-H or D2TA-8146-HA or D3TA-8146-JA

Standard, xtra cooling & A/C radiators: 24 1/4" wide x 19 1/4" high // Super Cooling radiator: 24 1/4" wide x 24 1/8" high. Super Cooling radiator has a HUGE top tank, overlaps the core and is wider than the other radiators.

Since the Super Cooling radiator is higher than the other radiators, its radiator mounting flanges are in different locations, so uses a specific radiator support and fan shroud.

 

Tm, I just put an album up of my truck, lots of pics. Will take more after install.

ND, The new radiator I just bought is currently high gloss black, the remanufactured water pump is unfinished iron, and the shroud is gray.

The shroud is from a newer Ford, but the radiator size appears either the same or really close, the diameter for the blades is right size and appears to be properly positioned when I sit it on top of the new radiator on the ground. I will have to fab up a bracket, and it may turn out to not work and in that case no shroud for me... I simply cannot afford the new ones right now. I chose to buy the new good metal radiator and try to salvage the shroud instead of going salvage radiator or buy the cheap plastic tank replacement radiators the parts houses are pushing.

I realize that I might be going hog wild with the color, but I have seen the engine bays color matched and I personally like it. Having a color theme kind of makes it more of a project and less of putting band-aids on the prior owners mistreatment. I also like going crazy with chromed parts but the budget doesn't like that at all, so it's rattle can customization for me.

Part of it may be that the engine bay is the only area I can afford to pretty up anytime soon. The bed/interior/body parts and paint is going to cost a fortune. I would probably be less inclined to go paint crazy if almost all of the color was already changed from original anyway. Right now the exterior is that primer black that I am almost certain was a rattle can job and the interior how has a tan seat I robbed from a 70s Ranger. The seat in it when I purchased (black) was unsafe it would slide forward when you hit brakes, and springs ripped clothes.

Sorry for the long post, I am pi$$ed off. While I was tinkering on the truck tonight I got the wild hair to go vacuum all the wire trimmings and junk from the recent electrical work from my floorboard and spray out the rust chips from the bed. I was at the car wash about an hr and I come home to my apt, some jerk has jumped over the rail and stolen two of the jugs of antifreeze off the patio. Almost $40 gone, but what really bothers me is my wife was home asleep just on the other side of the glass. I hate my apartments more every day...

 

You ain't the only one p!ssed off. "She who must be obeyed" said yesterday at 6 AM "I forgot to tell you I have to go to Dallas for a confab, will be back next Thursday."

I can't cook, hell I can barely boil water, so was totally unprepared. Guess I'll have to pig out on fast food till she returns.

How's the weather in the Dallas/Ft. Worth metro-plex, hotter than a popcorn phart? Serves her right if it is.

 

Well a storm came through 3 days ago and cooled it a bit. But yeah it's been hot until then. It makes getting to work on the truck less enjoyable let me tell you.

Well I am off to O'Reilly to buy more antifreeze and some more electrical components. I am repairing the trailer light setup on the truck today. Prior owner did have a light pigtail but i didnt orginally know it was so tangled in twine and duct tape... I had already bought and opened the new one so its going on. Also, My bumper has a spot for the old round trailer light that has been long ago cut off and is corroded, I am thinking of running a weatherproof cigarette lighter port like used on boats so I have a handy plug for tailgating and such. Gets the corroded part out and makes use of the hole at same time.

Anyway, hope you don't starve over there in Sunny CA.

 

6-5, 325, so won't starve anytime soon.

 

Who are you trying to fool, you can't get to be as big and ugly as you are without knowing your way around a kitchen.


John