I have recently purchased a 2000 F150 4x4. It has 40,000 miles and little shimmy at 40mph. Not a consistent shimmy, but more often you can feel this when you are applying the brake. It will only happen around 40mph and the stops. I have had the tires rotated / balanced. Also had the alignment checked. The tires are not in the best of condition. So I am not sure if the rotors are my problem or the problem is in the tires. I am trying to avoid putting on new tires and the problem was the rotors. Or vice versa. I have replaced quite a few rotors and shoes on several vehicles in the past. Just have not worked on many 4x4's. If the problem seems like the rotors, are there any special tools that I will need? I have an average selection of standard tools, wanted to check to see if I will need anything additional before I start the rotor replacement.

Thanks,

 

I'm not that familiar with the tools that you will need, but I bet it's your rotor. You should probably pull the hubs and grease the wheel bearings anyway. I'm pretty sure you'll need to pull the hubs to get the rotors off. I know I do, but then again there's some good improvements since then and mine is a 3/4 ton.

Sorry not alot of information for ya, but add 1 vote to rotors. Also, you can have a rotor turned on the vehicle at brake shops, but I hear it isn't that good of a job.

 

Thanks for your help, I am looking at taking the rotors to have them turned. Hopefully this procedure hasn't already been before. After that I think I will look at tires if the shimmy continues.

 

After you remove the 2 cailper support bolts and the support the rotor just slides off over the wheel studs. You dont have to touch the hubs or bearings

 

I replaced the brake pads when I had my '97 4x4 ext cab and I did not get the rotors turned or replaced and over time developed a shimmy when applying the brakes (especially on the highway). I have read about problems with the rotors warping and causing problems. When I had mine apart it looked like they would come right off if the caliper was removed. If I understand correctly the bearings are a sealed unit with the 4x4 hubs.

In my '94 4x4 it was a real pain in the ??? to get the rotor out. You definitely had to remove the hub...and hopefully the snap ring holding the hub in didn't break (mine did on one side)...Good luck.

 

A friend had found this website for me. And so far I really appreciate the help. I haven't owned very many Ford's, but my father-in-law has a '98 Ford F150 4x4. He really seems to enjoy his truck. That inspired me to purchase my truck. I am kinda a novice mechanic who sometimes enjoys working on stuff myself. Once again thanks for all your help.

 

Brett,
I have the same problem with my 99 F150 4x4 4.6
Vibration at 40 mph. It started at 40thou. very slightly and now at 50 thou. it vibrates intensely. I have repleaced everything.
Brakes (all 4 rotors, pads) shocks, tires (balanced twice), Front end alligned, And right now Im in the middle of replaceing the bearing and seals in the rear. I have taken the truck to ford for a diagnosis and the are as clueless as I am.
I hope you have luck changing the rotors. If the condition still exists I will be hearing from you soon.

Good luck
GHayde

 

When I have the wheels off I can at least check the thickness of the rotor. Does anyone know the minimum thickness before the rotors will need to be replaced. I have a pair of digital calipers to check the rotors.

You know after all the reading through this website, I have come to an apparent conclusion. Ford must know that there is a problem with their truck line. It does concern me that they are consistently producing the same trucks without much improvement in the problem.

 

Brett,

You can go to

www.autozone.com

and follow the links. There is a specification page on the rotors that should tell you what the minimum thickness is.

I don't have my repair manual with me either to look. I know GM's have it stamped on the back part of the rotor, but it may be impossible to see on your set up.

 

Before you get them turned check the prices for new ones. Autozone has them for about $35 each. Slotted rotors are supposed to be better as they stay cooler??? and I think they were around $75 each. I was going to purchase the slotted ones but traded my extended cab in a supercrew before I got around to it.

 

Yes Autozone will have a brand Aimco for $37.99 w/ 3 mo. warranty. I am not familiar with Aimco. I also called a local tire store to price having the rotors turned, they're charging $80 to have the rotors turned. It looks like new rotors will be the way to go. I have also discovered that they are making the rotors so much thinner & lighter, that there isn't much material reaming to turn the rotors safely. What I do need help with, is there a suggested torque specification to put the wheels back on? I will be doing this at home wo/ any air tools.

 

Brett,

First off, check out CarQuest, if there is one near you. I have to replace my rotors (way too thin to turn). AutoZone was $52/pc, CarQuest is $35. They carry a subsidary of Dana that makes Raybestos pads. I don't know about the quality, but I trust in Raybestos.

As far as torque for putting the wheels back on, I always get them hand tight before I set the tire on the ground. Then I get them about as tight as I can. I don't put 100% into them, because I will never get them off. I used to use a 1/2" torque wrench, I set it at 75 I think, but that was soft magnesium wheels. If you have steel wheels, you can tighten them as much as you want to. Just make sure you can get them off if needed.

AutoZone here charges about $10 to turn them. I can't believe that they are so much higher there. WOW!!!