1975 F250 360 fe.
I went threw about 8 pages and stopped when I wouldn't find anything remote to the topic.. So how easy is it? Remove the carb and disconnect links, coil, I understand I should use a sharpy to mark where the distributor when is and when the #1 cylinder is Tdc, also marking the rotor inside. Unbolt 8 bolts and that's it?
Gasket and rtv or diesel silicone? 32-35 lbs.
It would probably be another 2 months before I get to it

thanks in advance

 

You didn't state what engine you have. If an FE you have to remove the valve covers, loosen the rocker arms and remove the push rods. When loosening the rocker arms, do so in 1/2 to 3/4 turn increments and retighten the same way till you reach the proper torque. If you remove the arms there is a bolt that's specific to oiling. Make sure it goes back in the same hole.

 

Step 1) Determine manifold composition. If iron, go to step 2, if aluminum, skip step 2.

Step 2) Rent or otherwise procure a cherry picker or similar device.

 

thanks I was kinda dreading the thought of really having to do so.. Why does the push rods need to be removed? and I figured posting in the FE forum would suffice, but ill edit for googlers........

haha aluminum

 

They go thru the intake and unless you know some new magic tricks the rest of us dont. You have to remove them. If you are working on and FE.

 

haha.. I see, now that I know I can get started.. what kind of sealant that reliable rtv? silicone?

 

Use either the ultra black or ultra grey on the intake ends. They're specifically designed for contact with oil. Don't use the intake end gaskets. Instead use a 1/4" bead of the rtv. Let it tack up for 10 0r 15 minutes before lowering the intake. Put a thin film of rtv blue around the water passages on both sides of the gasket just for insurance.

 

Cool, I got most the stuff out of the way today and got the valve covers off and seen where the rockers and rods connect. It looks pretty clean, I was expecting the worst when I took the covers off..

 

looks pretty good.. all push rods are strait, but there is one semi concern

 

Is that a pin in that one lifter galley? Is it cracked or?? Hard to tell.

 

Another trick to save some cussing. I always take a hacksaw and remove about 1/2 inch from the bypass pipe on the water pump (don't hack up your intake) That way you have room to install the hose after the intake is bolted down. Otherwise you have to try and get the hose on while you are positioning the intake and that's a total PITA>

 

Hopefully, you kept the push rods in order. The engine does look clean.

 

Right click the image and then click on view image to get a bigger picture.. I was wondering that myself?

Indeed it was a pain

yes I did

 

End strips, especially rear, can slip out of location while lowering and locating that great big casting, most usually iron. Early H-P engines (390) had aluminum, perhaps others did later, but alum. were scarce in mid-60s.

Clean block surface, (end strip surfaces) with solvent, use 3-M Super Weather Strip Adhesive to attach end strips. They won't move!

A carefully-built and cared-for FE will just about run forever!

impish

 

If he is lucky he might see some of the new Fel-Pro intake gaskets. I noticed that the end strips now have a peel off adhesive already on one side. Peel the paper, press onto the intake, wait a little and then install intake. The strips get a pretty good grip and do not slip.