Hi all, I was wondering how many square feet I need of sound deadner to cover my 1950 ford truck? I would want to have enuph for under carpets behind seat roof ect. Basically cover the whole cab with this. Any idea how much because I am out of the country at the moment and going home for the summer so I want to order this stuff soon. Thanks Sean conroy

 

Just measured my 50. Looks like around 5'x5' for the floor, 5'x4' for the back of the cab, and 5'x3' for the roof.

Those add in a couple of inches on each.

 

I was told two gallons of Lizard Skin will do all the inside of the cab. This goes on a little thicker than the Thermol control that will do all the inside of the cab and under the floor/firewall.

 

Thanks a million just ordered the sound deadner.

 

At this point with my truck. What specific Lizard Skin product are you speaking of? product # and price would be great.

Thanks

 

lizadrskin dot com

LIZ50100 ORIGINAL LIZARD SKIN CERAMIC INSULATION 2 GAL 169.99

LIZ50115 LIZARD SKIN SOUND CNTRL CERAMIC INSULATION 2 GAL 149.99

LIZ50125 SUPER PRO SPRAY GUN KIT 79.99

Jegs, Summit race, and other outfits.

 

I've heard and read about this stuff. Supposed to be quite remarkable. Did you use it or has anyone else used it. I would be interested in hearing what they have to say.

 

So you need both products and the spray gun? approx $400?

 

Sounds a little to pricey for me. I will stick to the matting. Might be a little more labor intensive but it will give me something to do with my time/

 

I agree. That starts to add up.

 

LizardSkin is a great thermal barrier coating but if you don't liike the price then you can make your own. Lots of how-to's on the web. I spray it with a Shutz gun...costs about $10. Spray this on first, then apply vibration dampener (Dynamat, etc), and then the soundproofing material. I use a closed cell foam (CCF) followed by mass loaded vinyl (MLV). This is not the cheapest way to go but it is the most efficient. Remember, vibration dampner is NOT soundproofing...it merely keeps the panel to whcih it is applied from vibrating.

 

I just finished covering the entire inside of a 1950 F-1, firewall, floor, roof, inside doors, etc,,,,with Dyna-mat

It took 70 sq feet,,,cost was about $400.00

Pricey,,yes,,,,Quiet----OHH yea.

 

Did you do both the thermal barrier and the sound deadner? What kind of prep did you have to do to paint over it or did you just carpet or mat over it. Still don't like the price but I sure like the concept.

 

Charlie, Did you use the CCF and MLV in the roof area also. I was going to use a thinsulate batting above the headliner. How did you attach everything, and how did it turn out?
I'm at the installation stage now!

 

Here is a pic of my cab with the lizardskin applied. This is the thermal barrier coating and will give me a 40% reduction in heat transfer...this means that if the roof skin is 100 degrees on the outside that the inside will be at about 60 degrees. I opted not to use the spray on LizardSkin sound deadener product because IMO it did not have the bang for the buck that I was looking for.
On top of the LizardSkin as shown in the pic, I applied Dynamat as a vibration dampener. Many people cover 100% of the panel with Dynamat but that is overkill. Given that the product dampens vibrations, how much do you need? Ever hit a cymbal and then placed just one finger on the edge? It doesn't take much to stop a metal panel from vibrating. Some folks believe the hype that the aluminum foil backing adds to the thermal barrier qualities of the Dynamat...maybe, but the real function of the foil is to hold the soft butyl rubber in place.
Teddy, to answer your question about the CCF/MLV on the roof...unless you drive around an airport or somewhere else where there is a lot of overhead noise there is nothing to gain by sound proofing your roof. In fact, applying the CCF/MLV would be a real chore...the MLV weighs over 1 lb per sq foot. You are on the right track with the thinsulate...you want a lightweight material that is going to absorb the reflected sound from within the cab rather than a material to stop outside sound from entering the cab.
The CCF/MLV can be glued if you wish...BoomMat and other similar products are sold with the CCF and MLV already bonded together. This will work but it makes life a little more difficult when applying since the MLV only bends in one plane. It can be done, there will just be more waste.
I buy my materials from Don Sambrook at Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information go to his site and read up on the various materials and you will get a good idea of what works best for your application. I spoke to Don before I started on my truck and he gave me some great tips on installation, here are a couple:
1. use industrial strength Velcro instead of glue to install the CCF/MLV that way it is much easier to set the material in place and it can be removed if you ever need to gain access to the panel behind it.
2. soundproof the door panels instead of the door skin...much of the noise that comes through the door area comes through the seams/jambs. Keep the sound proofing as close to the interior as possible for nest results.

Good luck...