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The instructions tell you to reduce the pressure in the stabilizer if the truck is pulling to the left. Mine did when I installed it and i reduced the pressure by opening the valve for a split second (open and close as fast as I could). Very little came out, but it was enough to stop the pull to the left.
I thought you were referring to tire pressure. I would check the alignment. That amount of pressure is way to low in a steering stabilizer from my past experience. You had no pull to the left with the stock one? Something is out of alignment...
It was pulling to the left and just last week I had it in the shop for a tire rotation and alignment and it still seems to have a left pull. The shop (which is a front end specialist) noted the pull, tried swaping the fronts from left to right and still pulled. They are telling me that everything is within spec and that the positive charge of the stablizer is likely the cause.
I removed the carli unit from the truck and compared to a bilstein 5100 that I have and noticed that with the carli set at 75, it has a much faster rebound that the 5100 (which isn't adjustable). Is this faster (ie. stronger) rebound enough to push the steering on the truck, I guess so??
That certainly sounds reasonable, but is so far off from what mine is was the reason for the comment. My only concern is there is enough pressure left to do it's job. Potholes at 65mph need some rebound. I do hope you get it sorted out...no fun spending money on what is supposed to be a premium product and things don't go as planned.
That certainly sounds reasonable, but is so far off from what mine is was the reason for the comment. My only concern is there is enough pressure left to do it's job. Potholes at 65mph need some rebound. I do hope you get it sorted out...no fun spending money on what is supposed to be a premium product and things don't go as planned.
My sentiments exactly.....I would like the bene of a product that I've spent a premium on to work as it should. Maybe it's just overkill for the stock tire set up. I noticed that you are running a wider tire, perhaps you need extra pressure in the unit to compensate for the larger tires.
I currently have the stock 20in Michelin's, curious if anyone else with a stock set up is having these issues.
The instructions say to lower the pressure if it pulls to the left but DO NOT run at lesst than X PSI (I can't remember what the PSI is but I think around 40 - 60??). When I put mine on at 200 PSI it pulled hard to the left. I let some pressure out but it comes down REALLY fast. Even the small "pst" from checking the pressure drops it like 10 PSI. The last time I checked it, mine was right at whatever they say is the minumum to run it at. It does not seem to pull at all now.
I remember a thread where sgt93 went from 200 PSI to 0 in one shot and had to get it re charged. SO be careful letting pressure out!
I have the same issue with my truck.Talked to Bilstein and that shock was designed for positive pressure towards the left to stop the RH pull the earlier trucks had.Thats why you have to compress the shock towards the RS of the truck to get it on the mount properly.Ideally the shock needs to have the stroke shortened a couple of inches to stop the LH pressure.
The instructions say to lower the pressure if it pulls to the left but DO NOT run at lesst than X PSI (I can't remember what the PSI is but I think around 40 - 60??). When I put mine on at 200 PSI it pulled hard to the left. I let some pressure out but it comes down REALLY fast. Even the small "pst" from checking the pressure drops it like 10 PSI. The last time I checked it, mine was right at whatever they say is the minumum to run it at. It does not seem to pull at all now.
I remember a thread where sgt93 went from 200 PSI to 0 in one shot and had to get it re charged. SO be careful letting pressure out!
I also have larger tires tho...
Thanks
I'm using a high pressure tire gauge to read the pressure, even putting the guage on the schrader valve ends up letting some of the nitrogen out. I have to find a better way to check the pressure ex taking it off and to a shop with a nitrogen tank.
I'm using a high pressure tire gauge to read the pressure, even putting the guage on the schrader valve ends up letting some of the nitrogen out. I have to find a better way to check the pressure ex taking it off and to a shop with a nitrogen tank.
Yes same with me. If you find a better solution let us know. I know if I check mine again that way it will be below the lower limit. Do you happen to have the instructions and know what they say the min pressure to run it at is?? Can't find mine (likely in the garbage).
Yes same with me. If you find a better solution let us know. I know if I check mine again that way it will be below the lower limit. Do you happen to have the instructions and know what they say the min pressure to run it at is?? Can't find mine (likely in the garbage).
Thanks
I'll have to check the garage when I get home, I still have the box, but the instrux may have gotten tossed.
I'll have to check the garage when I get home, I still have the box, but the instrux may have gotten tossed.
Thanks I have been meaning to get one of our refrig guys to hook up his gauges to it and check / add nitrogen if required but I can't remember what the min pressure is..... I gues that is a better way to do it, get someone else to do it LOL
I searched and found this thread on another forum. A little more advanced if we're just talking about a steering damper, but might be a worthwhile read if the rest of your shocks are nitrogen charged and you are considering playing around with the charge.
I searched and found this thread on another forum. A little more advanced if we're just talking about a steering damper, but might be a worthwhile read if the rest of your shocks are nitrogen charged and you are considering playing around with the charge.