slave/master cylinders
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Lead Driver
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slave/master cylinders
Its late, i cant find sh&^..wondering if anyone knows the price for an OEM unit. Looked up RockAuto, and a pre-bled Warner is 180 buks, Brute Force 130 buks, pre-bled optional....I think i REALLY need to replace these items along with a clutch kit. Going with the VALAIR.
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From: Pea Ridge, AR
Tousley lists them at $66 and $52 respectively.
2000 FORD F-350 SUPER DUTY Parts - Tousley Ford Parts Depot
2000 FORD F-350 SUPER DUTY Parts - Tousley Ford Parts Depot
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
I'll throw in my 2 cents here.
My factory hydraulics lasted over 200,000 miles. No replacement I've found seems to last more than about 50,000 miles. I've tried the pre-bled set up from Ford, the slave only from Ford, the slave only from Autozone, The pre-bled made my Brute power from Rock Auto, and today I'm going to stick in the pre-bled from Dorman from Rock Auto.
Nothing seems to last nearly as long as the OEM set up, and if you buy from Ford, I think you're just getting aftermarket parts with their name on it. Since that seems to be the case, I'm just sticking with the less expensive options and plan to replace it again in another 50k.
My factory hydraulics lasted over 200,000 miles. No replacement I've found seems to last more than about 50,000 miles. I've tried the pre-bled set up from Ford, the slave only from Ford, the slave only from Autozone, The pre-bled made my Brute power from Rock Auto, and today I'm going to stick in the pre-bled from Dorman from Rock Auto.
Nothing seems to last nearly as long as the OEM set up, and if you buy from Ford, I think you're just getting aftermarket parts with their name on it. Since that seems to be the case, I'm just sticking with the less expensive options and plan to replace it again in another 50k.
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Lead Driver
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Appreciate the responses guys. When, i purchased my truck 2yrs ago, I had to have it smogged that day. I went to the place where the owner of the truck had a smog only site. The guys there mentioned how they used the truck from time to time..etc, but the same guy also said how the owner had to install a clutch assy. Now, my wife also recalls the same gentleman saying that you should replace the clutch when possible because it wasnt a great clutch that was installed. Well, i dont remember that, but 40k miles later and this thing is taking on a mind of its own...To the point of, if i get ur up in rpm, then when i go to shift, the pedal hits the floor, and can not get into higher gear without double-clutching.
Either way, pulled the trigger on the clutch assy last night, and with ur guys info, i'm pulling the trigger now on what m/s assy's to buy.....Thanks again.
Either way, pulled the trigger on the clutch assy last night, and with ur guys info, i'm pulling the trigger now on what m/s assy's to buy.....Thanks again.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
The other nice thing about the two I got from Rock Auto is they came with a new CPP in the package. I put that on the shelf until my cruise starts acting up and then I've got a new one ready to go. I've had to buy that part separate when using motorcraft parts.
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Lead Driver
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Chris, i read where you want to install a pre-bled system. Is this correct? Also, here's the link to R/A, dorman doesnt come bled, but the bottom 2 do. What one would you purchase?
RockAuto Parts Catalog
Well, that link didnt work...theres dorman at $100
SACHS at $115, WAGNER pre-bled at $180, and Brute Force pre-bled at $135.00
RockAuto Parts Catalog
Well, that link didnt work...theres dorman at $100
SACHS at $115, WAGNER pre-bled at $180, and Brute Force pre-bled at $135.00
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Dorman at $100 is what I got. More Information for DORMAN CC649021
As long as you're looking in the section for the Clutch Master & Slave cylinder assembly, it is the pre-bled unit. You've got to shake the box to get the CPP out. I almost didn't see it in there on this one.
And just a reminder that I can never seem to remember. The little rod that attaches to the clutch pedal comes loose in the package. DON'T try and push that rod in the master until after you have installed the slave in the bell housing. Otherwise you just end up breaking the little tabs holding the slave rod in. Not that that does any harm. I seem to do that every 50k or so and remember just a half second before I hear the plastic snap, but not early enough to prevent it from happening. I'll remember one of these days.
As long as you're looking in the section for the Clutch Master & Slave cylinder assembly, it is the pre-bled unit. You've got to shake the box to get the CPP out. I almost didn't see it in there on this one.
And just a reminder that I can never seem to remember. The little rod that attaches to the clutch pedal comes loose in the package. DON'T try and push that rod in the master until after you have installed the slave in the bell housing. Otherwise you just end up breaking the little tabs holding the slave rod in. Not that that does any harm. I seem to do that every 50k or so and remember just a half second before I hear the plastic snap, but not early enough to prevent it from happening. I'll remember one of these days.
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Lead Driver
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haha, thanks for the heads up Chris. Not thinking the DORMAN wa pre-bled..
, i pulled the trigger on the Brute, and the clutch seller accepted my $275 offer for the stock VALAIR clutch assy.
You guys dont mind, probably gonna ressurect this thread when parts are here, but will give heads up a day or two, b4 tackling the job...
, i pulled the trigger on the Brute, and the clutch seller accepted my $275 offer for the stock VALAIR clutch assy. You guys dont mind, probably gonna ressurect this thread when parts are here, but will give heads up a day or two, b4 tackling the job...
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